Image by Eleonora Baldwin

This place never fails.

Even if I’m not taking a walk in Monti, or sightseeing in and around the Forum with relatives or friends visiting from out of town, I always find an excuse to walk into this welcoming enoteca.

Behind the glass door entrance is the sales counter, where I can either purchase two bottles to go, or ask for a table. The back is in three levels, the ground floor seats patrons on benches and long tables and in booths, the suspended overhead loft holds shelves upon shelves of bottles; and underground, beneath a hidden trapdoor, lies the actual wine cellar.

Needless to say, the selection of vino here is boundless, with over 1000 labels. But the accompanying fares are just as inviting. I always have the juniper berry-smoked herring on granny smith apple slices and Tropea onion chutney; or splurge on the salumi and cheese samplers, and I always have a warm soup during winter. The specials change daily, according to fresh seasonal ingredient availability.

This is one of the few places I feel comfortable dining in alone. It’s usually not easy for me to sit at a restaurant table by myself, yet – be it the audacious Barolo in my bloodstream, the charming waiting staff, or the homey aromas wafting from the kitchen – here I feel perfectly welcome and safe at a table for one.

Next time you’re swinging by the Colosseum, or as part of your aperitivo crawl, be sure to stop in this trustworthy neighborhood institution.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Cavour 313 | Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks, Restaurants (Local) | Daily Special € 10.00
Via Cavour 313 | City center | +39066785496
Store from 10:00 | Restaurant 12:30 – 15:00 & 19:30 – 00:30 daily

Image by Eleonora Baldwin

Nestled in a patch of leafy perennials and umbrella pines, the Tree Bar is my latest fixation. Not far from the Stadio Flaminio, in the gardens that flank Viale Tiziano and Via Flaminia, the eco-friendly structure of the Tree Bar includes a spacious indoor and a breezy dehors, where in the warmer months, patrons can lounge under the leafy canopy provided by the trees from breakfast, throughout the wee hours of the night.

I’ve stopped by here on occasion for classic Italian breakfast, knocking back large cappuccinos and fragrant, flaky croissants. I’ve brought friends here for informal lunches, business meetings over platefuls of local Mediterranean cuisine; and relaxed during the Tree Bar’s hip aperitivo happy hour, which is enriched by a fabulous finger food buffet, dj set and other jazz, funk, and rare-grooves live music events.

I’ve yet to hang out here for dinner, but I’ve perused the hand-written menu on the tall chalkboard: I’m ready to taste the Tree Bar’s regional specialties, vast assortment of salumi and rare cheeses and hand made desserts, plus the very handsome wine list.

Will you come with me?

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Tree Bar | Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks, Restaurants (Italian)
Via Flaminia 226 | Parioli & Flaminio | +390632652754
Mon 18:30 – 01:00, Tue – Sun 12:00 – 15:00 & 19:00 – 01:00

Image by Sanacafè website

Sanacafè is a novel concept restaurant, it blends my three favorite food notions: healthy, convenient, and chic. Sanacafè seats 80 in its tiny 200 square meters and outdoor sidewalk, but offers a unique formula: Michelin star-type products and service, at a totally democratic price.

Sanacafè’s innovative cuisine techniques reflect the desire of Chef Alessandro Circiello-some may have seen him on Rai2 newscast as nutrition consultant-to maintain foods wholesome, exalting the local Mediterranean, sustainable farmed, organic and seasonally sourced super-foods employed. Circiello’s methods reflect this too: lower cooking temperatures, and sous-vide in vacuum glass containers to preserve flavor and maintain nutritional and beneficial properties intact.

My steak tomato, stuffed with tiny cacio e pepe tube shaped pasta, was only topped by the signature veal cooked in red wine reduction with vegetable noodles, all lavishly paired to a glass of organic red wine. There’s also a coffee tasting menu, a juice bar, some very interesting artisan beers by local microbreweries, and a wide selection of vitamin drinks and tisanes available.

The ambiance is friendly, and at the siShop section, guests can purchase the actual food, wine, design products, and table settings used in the kitchen and dining room.

This place is ideal for a casual girlfriend get-together, a business lunch, a custom designed party, a relaxing slow moment, or simply a chance to dine well. And healthy.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Sanacafè | Bars, Coffee & tea, Relaxing, Restaurants (Healthfood) | Lunch menu € 16
Via Pompeo Magno 12C | Vatican & Prati | +390696035669
Mon – Sat 11:00 – 00:00

Image by Eleonora Baldwin

Pumpkin, cavolo nero, beans, cicoria, apples, persimmons, bread, eggs… with shopping list safely tucked in my pocket, and wheely shopping cart in tow, I’m off to my mercato rionale, the neighborhood market.

Forays always begin with friendly smiles widening on my purveyors’ familiar faces, unhurried conversation, warm greetings and small talk. The transactions come later. Through this rapport based on everyday contact, locals are raised trusting their suppliers.

My first stop is always Giuliana, the signora that sells me the best mesculun salad ever, crisp fennel bulbs, zucchini topped with sunny blossoms and other seasonal produce grown in her country orto, a property located 30 km south of the city. She always throws in an onion, celery rib and carrot in my bag, for soffritto-it’s a given; and two generous bunches of basil and parsley. For free.

Next, I stop by Massimo, my poultry butcher. He sells me free range chickens, brown eggs, and other non red meats. He’s known me since I was 5, when I’d come here with my mother.

By now, my shopping carrellino is almost full, so I make my way to Anna, for fruit. Her kiosk is always decorated and stocked with exceptionally fresh seasonal goodies, the sweetest and juiciest fruits around. Here, I always end up buying more than I had planned.

Before I leave, I can either pick up fresh flowers at Franco’s stall, or, if I get the munchies, grab a slice of heaven sold by weight at the pizza al taglio booth.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Mercato Rionale Parioli | Bars, Coffee & tea, Shopping, Snacks
Viale Parioli at Viale della Moschea | Parioli & Flaminio | +39068088882
Mon – Sat 07:00 – 14:00

Image by Zoc website

I was already madly in love with Urbana 47. When the sister resturant Zoc opened in Trastevere, I was beyond myself.

The whole culinary and cultural idea behind Zoc’s cuisine is mixing traditional local and fresh produce with foreign spices sourced in Rome’s ethnic Mercato dell’Esquilino. The principles of direct supply chain and locally foraged ingredients are not new concepts for the clients of both trendy eateries. Zoc, however is the one that manages the vintage furniture sales for both restaurants.

Yes, because the Tribeca-meets-Borough Market ambiance is home to a unique trait. Zoc is an elegant mixture between a creative bistro and a retro antiques store. On the menu, hors d’oeuvre, primi starters, entrées, sweets and furnishings. The last page is not a list of after dinner liqueurs, but rather an armchair catalog.

My latest meal at Zoc included the signature vegetable tempura in soy sauce, an awe inspiring pancetta-wrapped rabbit kebab, and the stracchino cheesecake with Gentilini biscuit crust and orange cardamom jam: a taste my palate is still longing for. Every course is paired with aromatic teas like bancha, ginger, lemon or pai mu tan, to mention a few. This adds even more gusto to each ambrosial morsel, and allows you time to calmly peruse the room for that special vintage object that will be coming home with you.

Sunday is “ethnic brunch” day. A definite must.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Zoc | Coffee & tea, Shopping, Snacks, Restaurants (Intern.) | Starters € 12
Via delle Zoccolette 22 | Trastevere | +390668192515
Tue – Sun 19:30 – 00:00, Sat 12:30 – 15:00, Sun (brunch) 12:30 – 15:30