Image by Eleonora Baldwin

This place never fails.

Even if I’m not taking a walk in Monti, or sightseeing in and around the Forum with relatives or friends visiting from out of town, I always find an excuse to walk into this welcoming enoteca.

Behind the glass door entrance is the sales counter, where I can either purchase two bottles to go, or ask for a table. The back is in three levels, the ground floor seats patrons on benches and long tables and in booths, the suspended overhead loft holds shelves upon shelves of bottles; and underground, beneath a hidden trapdoor, lies the actual wine cellar.

Needless to say, the selection of vino here is boundless, with over 1000 labels. But the accompanying fares are just as inviting. I always have the juniper berry-smoked herring on granny smith apple slices and Tropea onion chutney; or splurge on the salumi and cheese samplers, and I always have a warm soup during winter. The specials change daily, according to fresh seasonal ingredient availability.

This is one of the few places I feel comfortable dining in alone. It’s usually not easy for me to sit at a restaurant table by myself, yet – be it the audacious Barolo in my bloodstream, the charming waiting staff, or the homey aromas wafting from the kitchen – here I feel perfectly welcome and safe at a table for one.

Next time you’re swinging by the Colosseum, or as part of your aperitivo crawl, be sure to stop in this trustworthy neighborhood institution.

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Cavour 313 | Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks, Restaurants (Local) | Daily Special € 10.00
Via Cavour 313 | City center | +39066785496
Store from 10:00 | Restaurant 12:30 – 15:00 & 19:30 – 00:30 daily

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Image by Eleonora Baldwin

Nestled in a patch of leafy perennials and umbrella pines, the Tree Bar is my latest fixation. Not far from the Stadio Flaminio, in the gardens that flank Viale Tiziano and Via Flaminia, the eco-friendly structure of the Tree Bar includes a spacious indoor and a breezy dehors, where in the warmer months, patrons can lounge under the leafy canopy provided by the trees from breakfast, throughout the wee hours of the night.

I’ve stopped by here on occasion for classic Italian breakfast, knocking back large cappuccinos and fragrant, flaky croissants. I’ve brought friends here for informal lunches, business meetings over platefuls of local Mediterranean cuisine; and relaxed during the Tree Bar’s hip aperitivo happy hour, which is enriched by a fabulous finger food buffet, dj set and other jazz, funk, and rare-grooves live music events.

I’ve yet to hang out here for dinner, but I’ve perused the hand-written menu on the tall chalkboard: I’m ready to taste the Tree Bar’s regional specialties, vast assortment of salumi and rare cheeses and hand made desserts, plus the very handsome wine list.

Will you come with me?

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Tree Bar | Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks, Restaurants (Italian)
Via Flaminia 226 | Parioli & Flaminio | +390632652754
Mon 18:30 – 01:00, Tue – Sun 12:00 – 15:00 & 19:00 – 01:00

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Image by Sanacafè website

Sanacafè is a novel concept restaurant, it blends my three favorite food notions: healthy, convenient, and chic. Sanacafè seats 80 in its tiny 200 square meters and outdoor sidewalk, but offers a unique formula: Michelin star-type products and service, at a totally democratic price.

Sanacafè’s innovative cuisine techniques reflect the desire of Chef Alessandro Circiello-some may have seen him on Rai2 newscast as nutrition consultant-to maintain foods wholesome, exalting the local Mediterranean, sustainable farmed, organic and seasonally sourced super-foods employed. Circiello’s methods reflect this too: lower cooking temperatures, and sous-vide in vacuum glass containers to preserve flavor and maintain nutritional and beneficial properties intact.

My steak tomato, stuffed with tiny cacio e pepe tube shaped pasta, was only topped by the signature veal cooked in red wine reduction with vegetable noodles, all lavishly paired to a glass of organic red wine. There’s also a coffee tasting menu, a juice bar, some very interesting artisan beers by local microbreweries, and a wide selection of vitamin drinks and tisanes available.

The ambiance is friendly, and at the siShop section, guests can purchase the actual food, wine, design products, and table settings used in the kitchen and dining room.

This place is ideal for a casual girlfriend get-together, a business lunch, a custom designed party, a relaxing slow moment, or simply a chance to dine well. And healthy.

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Sanacafè | Bars, Coffee & tea, Relaxing, Restaurants (Healthfood) | Lunch menu € 16
Via Pompeo Magno 12C | Vatican & Prati | +390696035669
Mon – Sat 11:00 – 00:00

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Image by Eleonora Baldwin

Pumpkin, cavolo nero, beans, cicoria, apples, persimmons, bread, eggs… with shopping list safely tucked in my pocket, and wheely shopping cart in tow, I’m off to my mercato rionale, the neighborhood market.

Forays always begin with friendly smiles widening on my purveyors’ familiar faces, unhurried conversation, warm greetings and small talk. The transactions come later. Through this rapport based on everyday contact, locals are raised trusting their suppliers.

My first stop is always Giuliana, the signora that sells me the best mesculun salad ever, crisp fennel bulbs, zucchini topped with sunny blossoms and other seasonal produce grown in her country orto, a property located 30 km south of the city. She always throws in an onion, celery rib and carrot in my bag, for soffritto-it’s a given; and two generous bunches of basil and parsley. For free.

Next, I stop by Massimo, my poultry butcher. He sells me free range chickens, brown eggs, and other non red meats. He’s known me since I was 5, when I’d come here with my mother.

By now, my shopping carrellino is almost full, so I make my way to Anna, for fruit. Her kiosk is always decorated and stocked with exceptionally fresh seasonal goodies, the sweetest and juiciest fruits around. Here, I always end up buying more than I had planned.

Before I leave, I can either pick up fresh flowers at Franco’s stall, or, if I get the munchies, grab a slice of heaven sold by weight at the pizza al taglio booth.

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Mercato Rionale Parioli | Bars, Coffee & tea, Shopping, Snacks
Viale Parioli at Viale della Moschea | Parioli & Flaminio | +39068088882
Mon – Sat 07:00 – 14:00

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Image by Zoc website

I was already madly in love with Urbana 47. When the sister resturant Zoc opened in Trastevere, I was beyond myself.

The whole culinary and cultural idea behind Zoc’s cuisine is mixing traditional local and fresh produce with foreign spices sourced in Rome’s ethnic Mercato dell’Esquilino. The principles of direct supply chain and locally foraged ingredients are not new concepts for the clients of both trendy eateries. Zoc, however is the one that manages the vintage furniture sales for both restaurants.

Yes, because the Tribeca-meets-Borough Market ambiance is home to a unique trait. Zoc is an elegant mixture between a creative bistro and a retro antiques store. On the menu, hors d’oeuvre, primi starters, entrées, sweets and furnishings. The last page is not a list of after dinner liqueurs, but rather an armchair catalog.

My latest meal at Zoc included the signature vegetable tempura in soy sauce, an awe inspiring pancetta-wrapped rabbit kebab, and the stracchino cheesecake with Gentilini biscuit crust and orange cardamom jam: a taste my palate is still longing for. Every course is paired with aromatic teas like bancha, ginger, lemon or pai mu tan, to mention a few. This adds even more gusto to each ambrosial morsel, and allows you time to calmly peruse the room for that special vintage object that will be coming home with you.

Sunday is “ethnic brunch” day. A definite must.

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Zoc | Coffee & tea, Shopping, Snacks, Restaurants (Intern.) | Starters € 12
Via delle Zoccolette 22 | Trastevere | +390668192515
Tue – Sun 19:30 – 00:00, Sat 12:30 – 15:00, Sun (brunch) 12:30 – 15:30

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Image by Eleonora Baldwin

I have just recently discovered a place that reminds me of a medieval apothecary, in the heart of the Eternal City. But Romans in the know have relied on Ai Monasteri for traditional herbal products made by Italian monks, since 1894. Goods sold here may include natural potions, elixirs, candles, marmalades, and honey, plus all sorts of ancient ointments and remedies.

I first learned of the time-honored tradition of monastic trade some years ago during a visit at a Cistercian Monastery near Frosinone. Exploring the monastery’s ancient liquoreria, I learned of the century-old custom of selling products manufactured by the local monks, and of the commerce that soon extended beyond the cloistered walls of the monasteries, abbeys and convents.

I soon became obsessed with Cistercian jams, made with only organic produce and zero preservatives. I hunted remote neighborhood herbalists for the monks’ remedies against flu prepared with pine honey, eucalyptus and propolis resin. I went crazy trying to track down Trappist beer and Benedictine balms. It was not an easy task. Only few, rare stores stock these unique products, and most of the time, variety is narrow.

When I finally stumbled upon Ai Monasteri on Corso Rinascimento, at a stone’s throw from Piazza Navona, I realized my frantic ecclesiastical search was finally over.

So if you’re looking for bee pollen and royal jelly, grappa or cordial, honey, vinegar and unique herbal teas, be sure to take a quiet moment to visit Ai Monasteri, and be transported to another era.

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Ai Monasteri | Coffee & tea, Shopping, Snacks
Corso Rinascimento 72 | City center | +390668802783
Mon, Wed & Fri 16:30 – 19:00, Sat 10:00 – 12:30

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Image by Eleonora Baldwin

This Pigneto bar-a favorite of bohemian film types and radical literati-is a great casual hangout at any time of day. Great for lazy cappuccino mornings and unhurried newspaper reading; Necci is also perfect for a quick lunch, and ideal for happy-hour conviviality and relaxed dinner.

For about 6 years now, Pigneto has been the “it” neighborhood for contemporary culture pundits. I like the laid back vibe, the rainbow of cultures and ages that inhabit its tree-lined streets, the trendy bars and edgy boutiques that sit adjacent to the old corner haberdashers that still sell buttons and zippers to local housewives. Near Via del Pigneto is the automobile-free main drag of the shabby chic quarter, and the original filming location of Pasolini’s Accattone and Rossellini’s Roma Città Aperta.

I come to Pigneto’s hook-up institution Necci to take advantage of the bread-making lessons taught here by a group of fun-loving vegetarian hippies. But when I’m here just to hang out, and not attend any classes, I like to sit by myself, kick off my shoes and bring a book to go along with my sunset aperitivo.

In summer Necci organizes an evening vintage market garage sale. Here you can find old vinyl albums, revamped second hand clothes, crafty objects, cool furniture, books and CDs; you can munch on outstanding dishes and simply relax, drinking chilled beers in the garden or bold wine by the fireplace.

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Necci dal 1924 | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea, Music, Relaxing, Snacks, Restaurants (Italian)
Via Fanfulla da Lodi 68 | S.Lorenzo & Pigneto | +390697601552
08:00 – 01:00 daily

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Image by Sabrina Favoriti

This is just another coffee bar at the next corner, but the modern design makes the experience of tasting their coffee worth it.

This coffee spot continues to re-invent itself and in fact the last few evenings that I went there I swapped my coffee for a glass of red wine! Now they are also a wine bar.

People that that live or work in the area, go and have their breakfast here with a cup of coffee and maybe a freshly baked croissant before heading off to work.

I like to go there at mid-morning and chat around with a friend sipping a cappuccino and indulge in a chocolate or cream filled croissant. And now they expanded with a small patio outdoors with tables with umbrellas to protect you from the hot sun, but it is so refreshing to have a mid-afternoon cold iced tea!

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Caffe’ 901 | Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks | Caffe macchiato € 1.00
901 Via Cassia | Cassia & Montemario | +390633260000
Mon – Sat 10:00 – 20:00

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Image by Sabrina Favoriti

Recently I met a friend that I hadn’t seen for years, for a Saturday morning coffee at Antico Caffe’ Greco. This bar is located in the middle of Via Condotti and is one of the oldest coffee shops in town, founded in 1760.

The atmosphere in the coffee place is interesting as all the little details of the furniture are conserved extremely well. When you enter the place it is like you are transported back in the 18th century. You can imagine people like Goethe or Stendhal sipping a cup of coffee and discussing the philosophy of life.

My chat with my friend was not as deep but it was a great place to catch up on a rainy Saturday morning, I had a cup of coffee and a croissant and she had a cappuccino and croissant, and when we were ready to leave we even saw a gladiator paying for coffee!

One thing to pay attention here is that the prices increase if you sit down at the table but the experience is worth it.

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Antico Caffe’ Greco | Coffee & tea, Snacks | Coffee at the table € 5.00
Via Condotti 86 | City center | +39066791700
09:00 – 19:00 daily

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Image by Alessandro Giuliani

…no Frappucino (for what I love it!) can beat “granita di caffè”, cappuccino o the hot chocolate with whipped cream you can have here!

Tazza d’Oro is known worldwide for its “granita di caffè”. What is it, you will ask? Well, take their espresso (rumored to be the best in the city, unless you prefer their bitter rival, Caffè Sant’Eustachio. I don’t.), add ice and basically it, somehow, becomes this frozen yet soft blend that is just delicious… you must try it. Many claim “granita” is more appropriate to have during the warm season…forget about it, it’s good all year around! Anyway, the cold season is approaching and, now, there is NO excuse for anyone coming to Rome not making a stop here!

Whatever your choice, do not forget to top it with fresh whipped cream; here they are sooo good to make that, too. Very indulgent. But you can always claim you need some caffeine to keep with the jetlag, or the Rome jet-set you may meet by strolling down the streets surroundings this Caffè. Get one, and get happy.

Coffee ground on-site is available for purchase and can be shipped worldwide. Teas from all over the world have just been added to the list, to meet any taste. Most of them are organic, and selected with the very same care they put into coffee

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Gran Caffè Tazza d’Oro | Coffee & tea, Shopping | Granita con panna € 2.50
Via degli orfani 84 | City center | +39066792768
Mon – Sat 07:00 – 20:00

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