City center Rome – All our local tips

Let’s reCycle the city! Make the difference: let’s cycle around, and show local government that cycling has plenty of fans and it’s worth investing on it!

The service is now managed by ATAC, the local mobility company. Just get an ATAC Bikesharing Card, which you can purchase and recharge at the ATAC ticket counters at the Metro A stops of Lepanto, Spagna and Termini. The cost of the rechargeable card is € 5.00 with a minimum initial charge of € 5.00; you can recharge the card for any amount you want.

The service is available 24 hours a day, and you can take a bike for a maximum of 24 hours at a time. The rate is € 0,50/ half or part thereof.

Penalties: for theft of the bike € 250.00, for exceeding the time limit, a € 10.00 flat fee plus € 5.00 per hour, if you abandon the bike without calling the ATAC line (+390657003) € 30.00.

Location of bike stands:

Via del Corso, 1 (piazza del Popolo)
Piazza Madonna di Loreto (piazza Venezia)
Piazza del Parlamento
Piazza Colonna
Piazza di Spagna
Largo delle Stimmate (Argentina)
Piazza delle Cinque Lune (piazza Navona)
Via Santa Caterina da Siena (Pantheon)
Piazza del Biscione (campo de’ Fiori)
Piazza San Silvestro
Piazza Sforza Cesarini
Via della Panetteria (via del Tritone)
Piazza Sant’Andrea della Valle
Vicolo della Campana (via della Scrofa)
Largo Arenula
Piazza dell’Oratorio
Via di Santa Maria in Via (Fontana di Trevi) Piazza dell’Oro
Via dei Pontefici

More bikes are coming soon!

For information: ATAC dedicated line +39 06 57003 (24/7, including holidays) or visit www.atac-bikesharing.it

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“Bike sharing” | Relaxing | One-off fee € 5.00
Various locations | City center | +390657003
24 hours daily

433 Next Bar got its name from the owners’ passion for football and particularly for Czech manager Zdenek Zeman. Mister Zeman became very famous in Italy for his struggle against doping and against the view of football like a business and not like a sport. He’s famous particularly in Rome because he was S.S. Lazio’s coach for three seasons, and A.S. Roma’s for two seasons after that during the second part of 90’s.

Zeman is also famous for his line-up because he’s a fundamentalist of “433″, which is a very aggressive and brave line-up in football, and it can be considered as a way of life.

Starting from the line-up,here you are the restaurant/bar that was inaugurated last spring, with Zeman present as well. The “433 Next Bar” is located in the heart of the famous “triangolo delle bevute” in Via del Governo Vecchio, which has always been a destination for Roman paused and walking, passing foreigners and those seeking the right places in the streets of city center.

Furnishing and design are modern, following the latest international trends. The menu is a mix of Italian cooking and Mediterranean creativity. They have excellent appetizers, and some gems for connoisseurs like the carpaccio of duck, ham of lamb or amatriciana made with fish. There is also a good wine list and really good desserts. Reservation is required.

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433 next bar | Bars, Snacks, Restaurants (Italian) | Meal in bar € 10.00
Via Del Governo Vecchio 123 | City center | +390668308796
Mon – Wed 11:30 – 00:00, Thu – Sat 11:30 – 02:00, Sun 11:30 – 01:00

I ran into this tiny little cafe and library because one of my co-workers had told me that she had her first painting exposition there so I thought it was neat. But the first time I expected an art gallery, and I was pleasantly surprised to find a cool little cafe with an intimate upstairs with couches and a separate small room where they hang the paintings. The paintings the first time I went were really neat but when they exchanged them after a while, they were still cool and they really went well with the decor of the place.

I decided to have a hot chocolate and my friend had coffee and it was cool to just sit and talk and if you love to read, you also have a good variety of books to choose from.

Then I went again and again and sometimes I bring my laptop so I can work in a relaxing environment while sipping a cappuccino or hot chocolate or some fruit juice.

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Agave Bistrot | Art & culture, Coffee & tea, Relaxing, Snacks | Hot chocolate € 3.00
Via di San Martino ai Monti 7/A | City center | +39064882134
18:00 – 00:00 daily

This winebar/bistro exists since 1895, so it is part of History. It is a tippler meeting point, a bohemian environment where youngsters and oldies who behave as teenagers meet for a drink or two or more.

But the reason why I come here, either for a drink or a bite, is because the host always welcomes me with a smile, his staff is pleasant and easily at your disposal. This is not common in typically Roman bars downtown.

Once, a friend of mine ordered a salad and she found it too salty and not exactly how she expected it to be, and the host did not include her salad in our bill. This is even less common to happen in Rome. Usually the attitude is: “You didn’t like it? Tough luck”.

The choice of wines is quite good and the food is simple and homemade-style. It is silent and comfortable, feels like home. The façade is stunning: it is covered with ivy, very attractive. It deserves a picture.

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Ai Tre Scalini | Bars, Restaurants (Mediterranean/Italian) | Average meal € 13.50
Via Panisperna 251 | City center | +390648907495
Mon – Fri 12:00 – 01:00, Sat – Sun 18:00 – 01:00

One of my favorite spots for sipping a glass together with a friend, or a couple of them, thanks to the nice atmosphere in this place. Its coziness is perfect for laughing and gossiping with no guilt!

The two room consists mostly of tables for two, though larger parties do come here, and the ambiance is expressed by candle light and soft vintage jazz in the background. There is a good, and original, selection of appetizers, such as bruschette topped with lard and honey.

Al Vino, Al Vino reminds of a traditional “osteria”: nicely furnished in oak with wine bottles displayed on the rafters along the walls and high above the drinkers’ heads. Giacomo, owner and manager, is always there, entertaining clients with his friendly manners and making sure your stay – and your “wine experience” run smoothly!

Wine and spirits selections are among the best in town for quality and attention to variety, Giacomo himself being very attentive to local, regional and national labels.

The drinks may be accompanied by a tasty cheese platter and cold cuts from different regions but, should you feel like having something more “filling”, you can always check what’s on the menu. It’s not an extensive menu, but a ” plate of the day” and a few more options that will do.

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Al vino, al vino | Bars, Snacks | Glass of wine from € 4.00
Via dei Serpenti 19 | City center | +3906485803
19:00 – 02:00 daily

Red carpet, please! When you enter this bookstore you will feel like you have just stepped in Hollywood, Cinecittà or any movie set theater. From a €0.50 postcard to a €2,500 autographed photo book, everything on sale here is exclusive. Magnets, DVDs, books, original posters, vintage and modern, some pieces are rare and unique, such as special collection films, blow-ups by Michelangelo Antonioni, Andy Warhol’s Vinyl or The Chelsea Girls, or other limited edition pack of films at excellent prices starting from €9.99, including rarities like The Bad Lieutenant with Harvey Keitel.

Art and photography are connected to the movie jet set biz. Gigantic books published by Taschen are one of the unique items of this store: When I was a child I sat on my father’s lap during a boxing match with Champion Cassius Clay, later converted himself to Muhammad Ali.

An autographed photo book about his life on and off the ring is on sale for €3,000, a book of very special dimensions: 50cm per 50cm. You can find other mega books with Leni Riefenstahl, David LaChapelle and Jeff Koons pictures worth €2.500. Underground, recherché books and videos are a must for people that love movies

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AltroQuando | Shopping | DVD € 9.99
via del Governo Vecchio 80 | City center | +39066879825
10:30 – 01:30 daily

Recently I met a friend that I hadn’t seen for years, for a Saturday morning coffee at Antico Caffe’ Greco. This bar is located in the middle of Via Condotti and is one of the oldest coffee shops in town, founded in 1760.

The atmosphere in the coffee place is interesting as all the little details of the furniture are conserved extremely well. When you enter the place it is like you are transported back in the 18th century. You can imagine people like Goethe or Stendhal sipping a cup of coffee and discussing the philosophy of life.

My chat with my friend was not as deep but it was a great place to catch up on a rainy Saturday morning, I had a cup of coffee and a croissant and she had a cappuccino and croissant, and when we were ready to leave we even saw a gladiator paying for coffee!

One thing to pay attention here is that the prices increase if you sit down at the table but the experience is worth it.

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Antico Caffe’ Greco | Coffee & tea, Snacks | Coffee at the table € 5.00
Via Condotti 86 | City center | +39066791700
09:00 – 19:00 daily

I had dinner here with my friend Dimitri on a tranquil day after one of our interesting political discussions and exchange of views. We thought we might end the day with a tasty dinner round the corner from where our usual hanging out places are.

It’s a pleasant Roman trattoria-restaurant. Good food. Fresh fish every day. Excellent wines and service. Average prices.

Look at the dessert in the picture!!! Don’t you feel like grabbing a spoon-full of it?! It’s frozen water melon with white chocolate and some other secret magical ingredients that make it delicious.

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Arancio d’Oro | Restaurants (Mediterranean) | Average meal 40.00
via Monte d’Oro 17 | City center | +39066865026
Mon – Sat 19:00 – 23:00

Theater is fun, therapeutic and educational. If you are English speakers visiting Rome and want to enjoy good quality performances in English or if you are living in Rome, but are not native English speakers yet want to improve your English, this is the right place for you.

I saw Good Grief, a show written and performed by Terianne Falcone, wonderfully directed by Parysa Pourmoneschi, from New York City’s Midtown International Theater Festival, presented in Rome at the Arciliuto theater where American actress Gaby Ford permanently produces shows in English. Terianne Falcone’s one-woman show Good Grief is intense, dramatic, yet extremely funny. It made me laugh and gave me the goosebumps. A blend of different feelings bringing together four authentic, complex characters, everyday people whose lives are woven together in one emotional, compassionate tale. The spirits of these interesting, ordinary individuals, that inspired these stories, are people who the actress/writer has met in her life. She transformed reality into a provocative exposition of the Manhattan condo where she used to live, and reproduced her neighbors who depict the discordance between old world Italy and the city that never sleeps.

I also saw Proof, the Pulitzer prize and Tony award winning play by David Auburn, a witty “mathematical” story of human relationships that examines the uncertainties of love, trust and personal integrity. Actress Katie McGovern was touching and impressive.

The program is rich and interesting, including Start at the Beginning, a series of original sketches and writings on the complexities of starting relationships ranging from romantic to transactional.

Check Gaby Ford’s website to pick your show at Arciliuto Theater, one of the most ancient playhouses of Rome, located in Palazzo Chiovenda, a 15th century building in the city center. There is a bar and a little comfortable living room for an aperitif.

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Arciliuto | Theaters | Ticket € 15.00
piazza Montevecchio 5 | City center | +39066879419
19:00 – 00:00 daily

How lovely is to sit outiside and sip your favourite drink?

Located in Piazza Mattei, a.k.a. “Turtles’ Square” (thanks to that little gem that is the marble fountain at the centre of the square) this tiny bar is an eclectic, rather eccentric baroque-style bar. The owner seem sto have collected any object he likes (or he wants to get rid of?). Anyway, the results is a cosy, welcoming mix of bold colours, ornate ceilings and furniture, rich fabrics and leather stools that get taken pretty quickly.

From pre-dinner drinks to late night fun, Bartaruga always offer an option, and both local folks and tourists seem to appreciated it.

When the music starts beating and the night goes on local celebs, media types and – occasionally – some models hit the ground. There’s even a piano, should you want to get your 5 minutes of fame J…

It is advisable to get in the bar early so that you find a good spot to view the late-night action. If the weather allow you so, grab a chair and you glass and move outside on the square for some people-watching…

*The name, Bartaruga, is a funny mix between “bar” and “tartaruga”, Italian for turtle.

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Bartaruga | Bars, Music | Wine from € 8.00
Piazza Mattei 8 | City center | +39066892299
18:00 – 03:00, closed on Wed (may vary according to season, check with the bar)

If you are VIP hunter, this is definitely where you want to go!

This cool club is one of the most fashionable in Rome and you can meet some actors or showbiz people every night. The coolest parties are on Monday night: in fact the so called “Bloomonday” is a must for Rome’s clubber, and you can spend all night long dancing surrounded by beautiful models or football players.

It’s not rare to meet AS Roma players, particularly if they won their last match and they don’t have an upcoming Champions League match. If you are very very lucky you can also meet the captain of the team and so called “Eighth King of Rome”, Francesco Totti.

There are cool nights also Friday and Saturday night, because the music is always good and once you are inside, you are captured by the suggestive furniture created by Philip Stark, a mix of oriental chic style and high tech environments.

Anyhow before you decide to go clubbing here, remember the motto of the club: “Dress to impress!!!”

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Bloom | Bars, Music | Drink from € 10.00
Via del Teatro Pace 30 | City center | +390668802029
Wed – Mon 23:30 – 05:00, Closed from June till September

If your heading to/from the Pantheon, do not miss a stop in the amazing Piazza di Pietra, so close by.

Apart from the massive 11 columns from the Hadrian’s Temple that – as a caring parent – overlooks the square, there’s another reason to take a break: Boccone, one of the best take-a-way options in town.

Panini (rich sandwiches) from the menu (which features unusual combinations of both Italian and international flavors and tastes) or as you like, from the vast selection of deli ingredients on display, that range from buffalo mozzarella to fresh salmon and tuna, cherry tomatoes, cicory salad, grilled eggplant to sun-dried tomatoes and spicy cheese. Different types of bread, extra virgin olive oil and all the simpaty of the staff will make your sandwich a real treat!

My favourite: “Roma”, “Palermo” and “Scilla”….uhhmmm, yummy!

P.S. Boccone also has selected beers and cold drinks, salads, fresh fruit and soups (in the cold season)
P.S. 2 No tables, but you can sit on the bench outside the shop!

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Boccone | Bars, Snacks | Sandwich (small) from € 4.00
Piazza di Pietra | City center
10:00 – 19:30 daily

There was a time when bookstores and cafè had nothing to do with each other. In more recent times, though, they have come to gather into the same location, and to alter the meaning of “bookstore” and “cafè”. It’s the new generation of Book-a-Bar: more than just a cafè, something different from usual bookstores.

Usually, they enjoy great locations, self standing or within a museum compounds.

Here you find my favorite ones:

BOOKA’BAR – Via Milano, 15/17 (within the Palazzo delle Esposizioni building): design interiors, ultramodern feeling, open courtyard (well, wait for warmer days!) adn a free wifi connection. She annex shop has mostly art, architecture, design, photo books and objects.

LETTERE CAFFE‘ – Via S.Francesco a Ripa 100/101 (Trastevere): cozy and relaxed during the day, the place warm up in the evening, with poetry and comedy slam hold on mon and tue nights. The rest of the week is on music

FLEXI - Via Clementina 9 (Monti): started as a cultural association, offer more than just book and drinks, as the offer range from book presentations, language exchange and courses, theatre labs, and much more.

CAFFE’ BOHEMIEN – Via degli Zingari 36 (Monti): shabby-chic chandeliers, and other touches of early ‘900 g

ive it a very bohemian vibe you will love to immerse into. The location is great, in the lovely area of Monti.

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BookABar | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea, Music | Drinks from € 3.50
Via Milano, 15/17 | City center
12:00 – 01:00 daily

It’s in the trendy jet set drinking triangle, where the Vip like going. Maybe a little too posh at nighttime, off limits on a Saturday night, too crowded. The personnel is not one of the most courteous, but I like the croissants they prepare for breakfast.

It’s like Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hide: during the day it’s simply the neighborhood’s café and at night it’s where the paparazzi pop out in search of actresses and celebrities sipping their drink. It’s located in an area where you can be picked up and hit on by typical Roman “roosters” walking in groups, charming young Casanovas hitting their night away after single women. A perfect place for a sexual anthropologist to sit and observe behaviors and trends. But there are also people like me that, after one or two drinks, like touring the boutiques around the side streets.

Night shopping is fun because when you are a little tipsy you push it a little. And after all, shopping, rather than drinking, is an investment.

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Caffè della Pace | Bars | Drinks from € 7.00
Via della Pace 3/7 | City center | +39066861216
Mon 13:00 – 02:00, Tue – Sun 09:00 – 02:00

My friend experts of the popular cocktail Mojito say this is the place where to have one. Ivano, who runs the place, is an amiable middle-aged man, easy going yet very professional.

The place is small and cozy. Do not go in groups. It is not the right place for herds of people. It is a bar for locals, nice and quiet, where you can easily have a chat with Ivano and the people who usually come here after work or after dinner. Feels like one’s home den.

Indoors and outdoors. Few tables as I said. Not crowded, not rowdy, not posh. If you sit outdoors speak softly please, people live in the apartments above the bar.

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Caffè Parione | Bars | Average drink € 5.00
via della Pace 40 | City center
Tue – Sun 18:00 – 02:00

Elido and Rossana are a lovely couple, husband and wife coworkers. They own a chic tailor boutique specialized in handmade suits and shirts. But you can also find ties, scarves, belts and other elegant accessories for men and bespoke women suits as well. Elegant cotton fabric is also on sale if you want to have your shirts made by your own tailor, otherwise Rossana will create one for you starting from €240. I had a wonderful navy blue suit made here and every time I wear it people recognize its exclusive material and style.

This store is famous worldwide. Celebrities, politicians, religious and ordinary people that appreciate quality and class are devoted customers. Many tourists however come back to visit Ettore, a friendly white English bulldog who stood at the door welcoming the clientele. He has died some years ago. When I used to pass by with my moped he would hop on to have a ride around the neighborhood. He was like a son to the owners, abundantly graceful, dignified and poised and was the main attraction of the street. I miss him so much. He was a friend.

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Camiceria Mattioli | Shopping | Bespoke men shirt € 240.00
via della Stelletta 30 | City center | +39066873359
Mon – Sat 09:30 – 19:30

Ciao Bella is a typical phrase that a Roman man says to a pretty girl, but it is also one of my favorite restaurants where I’m sure to find courtesy and good food, two fundamental and most important characteristics I look for when choosing which place to go have lunch or dinner.

It’s a well-known restaurant and doesn’t need any publicity at all, but I want to make sure my friends that read me here go check it out because it is worth it. The pizza is good, the menu offers a wide range of Mediterranean recipes, including all the typical traditional Roman dishes.

As you can see in the picture above, there is a big copper cloated oven heated up with wooden logs, the only way how pizza is supposed to be made. I also like the checkered white and red table cloths, the homey atmosphere, and the several dining rooms located in different alcoves. Last but not least, the waiters are all good-looking, professional and they speak English.

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Ciao Bella | Restaurants (Roman) | Pizza meal € 15.00
via Vittorio Veneto 12 | City center | +39064824155
12:00 – 00:00 daily

Meat here is very good. Whether beef steak, filet or involtini, it is all imported from Argentina, one of the best meat producers in the world. I am pointing this out despite being a Vegetarian! But I’m not a diet fundamentalist, so I must be objective.

When the quality of the meat is really good God’s will is that a plate is meant to be the animal’s Nirvana and your bliss. Anyhow, this does not make me a meat eater. I eat here to go head over heels for their vegetable dishes, whether boiled, grilled, baked or roasted.

I like the pastas, the soups. And, the desserts. It is a good place where to dine. You will be right smack downtown, in the center of the city, close by Navona square and the Pantheon. An after dinner promenade will take you, and the beef steak you probably had, to earthly paradise.

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Ciccia Bomba | Restaurants (Argentinian meat) | average meal € 30.00
via del Governo Vecchio 76, 00186 | City center | +390668802108
12:00 – 15:00 & 19:30 – 23:00 daily

Flights to Rome

A trip to the Italian capital would not be complete without seeing the famous Colosseum. This ancient amphitheatre is one of the greatest symbols of Roman architecture, and one of the most visited tourist attractions in the city.

Seeing this historical work of art will take you back in time to Ancient Rome. Try to imagine what it would be like to be a gladiator as you see the underground dungeons and then visit the museums dedicated to Eros on the upper floor of the Colosseum. Don’t forget your camera as this is one visit you will want to remember.

When I invited my friend Brigida out to dinner, who is a classy lady with extremely good taste and is used to eating well, I was happy not to disappoint her. Rather, she liked the food and appreciated the atmosphere, as it is also well equipped with design furniture. As to say, two senses are satisfied: sight and taste.

I had a risotto with mushrooms and melt cheese, plus fresh crispy grilled vegetables and mozzarella. My friend had fish, a delicious sea bass with vegetables as a side dish. Pinot grigio to drink, an Italian gelato to end our girly chit-chat.

This place is one of the few that makes pizza also at lunchtime. Another good thing is that it is always open, non-stop, no siesta between the usual lunchtime and dinner time. So, if for instance you get hungry at 16:00 you know where to come.

The chef is young and clever. The owners are affable. And the service is excellent: my friend accidentally dropped her knife which fell on the floor, she bent to pick it up and when she stood up again the waiter had already put a clean knife back on the table. Amazing!

I also often have an aperitif with my dear friend Tariq who is a connoisseur of pizza. He loves it here.

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Cotto | Bars, Restaurants (Mediterranean) | Meal € 30.00
Via Torino 124 | City center | +390683511947
12:00 – 23:30 daily, happy hour 16:00 – 19:30 daily

Via Sistina is a street filled with shops and a theatre, it is conveniently located in the heart of Rome and reachable either by METRO A-Barberini stop or via the Spanish Steps. At the middle of the street you, at Via Sistina 22, can find a tiny jewelry store called Cotton Club. It’s right in front of the Sistina Theatre.

They have a lot of silver and gems such as amber. You can either buy for yourself or as great classy gifts to bring back. The store is very tiny but it is definitely worth it, make sure to check out their own production section as you will find great creative pieces.

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Cotton Club | Shopping
Via Sistina 22 | City center | +39064870698
Winter Mon – Sat 10:00 – 20:00 | Summer 10:00 – 20:00 daily

Italian gelato is good in many places all over Rome. But the quality of this ice-cream is outstanding. Naturally, it is homemade and there is a huge variety of tastes. My favorite flavors are dark chocolate and cream, but most of the times I go for the mousse. Chocolate and Zabaglione are standard tastes you will find all year round. Now and then, they also make marron glacé, tiramisù or coffee mousse.

This spot is located in one of the most beautiful areas downtown: the Pantheon. It is a small place where you can only get yourself a cone or a paper cup to go. No sitting neither indoors nor outdoors. There is only a wooden bench next to the entrance door that fits a couple of people. If you want to enjoy your ice-cream cone sitting instead of licking it as you walk, you can take a seat on the low wall surrounding the Pantheon that looks like a long stone bench and enjoy the ancient surroundings and the magical atmosphere of old Rome.

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Cremeria Monteforte | Snacks | Ice-cream cup € 2.00
via della Rotonda 22, | City center | +39066867720
Tue – Sun 11:00 – 21:00

This bar created in 1972 is an important hub for people who wanna enjoy the roman nightlife: because of his central position between Piazza Navona and Campo de’ Fiori, Cuccagna Pub is the ideal place where meeting up with your friends, getting a drink and deciding where to spend the rest of the night.

Here you can find several kinds of people, from tourists who look for Italian people to American students or simply Roman people who love to go in the heart of their city.

After you got in and you choose your cocktail from a list of 120, it’s very funny to watch how your drink is prepared by the acrobatic barmen. Then go outside to enjoy it with other clients, while around you the Romans walk from Piazza Navona to Campo de’Fiori or viceversa.

If you go here on a Tuesday night, you must know that there is always “Erasmus night” and the bar and the streets around are completely overcrowded by students from every part of the world, particularly Spanish and American people: the ideal place to meet several cultures in few square metres!

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Cuccagna Pub | Bars | Cocktails € 4.00
Via della Cuccagna 17/18 | City center | +39066874848
Mon – Sat 22:00 – 02:00

It is like being in France. One of the best places for a tasty, inexpensive bite.

The wines are superb. 1500 wines, grappas and brandies, spumantes and champagnes, from basic red or whites to exclusive costly aged luxurious bottles of Italian and international wine.

On an ordinary day you may like to order, as I do, a Greek salad or a variety of cheeses. Or other tasty dishes like smoked salmon, or the lasagna, or the vine leaves rolled up and stuffed with meat. To tell you the truth, everything on the menu is extremely good.

Outdoors is quite nice, although the tables are too close to one another, there’s very little privacy. Indoors as well, the space is quite limited, so it could be suffocating for the tall and chubby ones. It is also difficult for me at times to fit in, as there is very little space between the bench and the table. No wonder it is called “cul de sac”.

But the waiters, all nice and professional sommeliers, make your night very pleasant, some of them are very charming. It may also occur that a band of gipsy musicians passes by and starts playing typical Eastern European tunes, accompanying your outdoor lunch or dinner with string instruments-violin, viola and cello. They deserve a tip just like the waiters do.

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Cul de Sac | Bars, Restaurants (French/Mediterranean) | Wine from € 5.00
Piazza Pasquino 73 | City center | +390668801094
12:00 – 16:00 & 18:00 – 00:30 daily

To enjoy your meal in this trattoria, don’t think that you go in a restaurant, but think that you’re going to visit your Roman friend’s house. The owner Sergio and his colleagues are always kind and caring, but they manage the restaurant as if you are guests in their house, creating a friendly and easy going atmosphere.

The main feature of this restaurant is the authenticity of the ingredients used to prepare Roman dishes. The menu depends on the availability of some ingredients.

Before you order your meal, remember that in Sergio Carbonara is a must. As a Roman man that can cook it and that has tried it in many restaurants, I really really really recommend to taste Carbonara made by Sergio, it’s the best in the city and simply unforgettable! Also “Pasta alla Gricia” and “Cacio&Pepe” are good, but I think the Carbonara is best…

Besides pasta, there is also a big choice of meat, fish, side dishes and cakes. I suggest you to make a reservation, particularly during the weekend because it’s always full.

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Da Sergio alle Grotte | Restaurants (Roman dishes) | Meal & wine € 20.00
Vicolo delle Grotte 27 | City center
12:00 – 16:00 & 19:00 – 00:00 daily

It’s a famous restaurant where celebrities, many politicians, parliament and government members, entrepreneurs and CEOs, like meeting and showing off their outfits and elegant partners and talk about business and money and power.

The food is good, no doubt. I often go for the pumpkin-stuffed ravioli, no tomato sauce just butter and salvia. My friends like having pasta and ragù which is unbeatable.

I can’t wait to get to the dessert: you must have the little fruit ice-creams: walnut shells filled with walnut ice-cream, carved out apricots filled up with apricot ice-cream, emptied out tangerines cut in half and stuffed with tangerine ice-cream, and many more fruits.

Anyhow, you will be sitting in one of Rome’s most beautiful squares. Make sure to book because it is always packed.

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Dal Bolognese | Restaurants (Italian/Mediterranean) | Full meal € 90.00
Piazza del Popolo 1-2 | City center | +39063611426
Tue – Sun 12:450 – 15:00 & 20:15 – 23:15 daily

“Dar Filettaro a Santa Barbara”, just off via dei Giubbonari (south east corner of Campo de’ Fiori), settled in one of the smallest, yet more charming squares in town, has been there for ages.

My father used to stop there in his 20s for a quick, tasty bite, and it still represents one of the most typical activities of “native” Romans.

It’s an amazing place, that has recently undergone some sort of “redecoration” that, unfortunately, has taken away some character together with the dust…Anyway; it’s still worth a stop, no matter what.

You’ll be amazed by the people lining up to the back of the bare room to order a filet of baccalà (salty cod), fried golden and served “da portar via” (wrapped in paper to eat as you take a stroll). You may also decide to sit down: there are some table inside + extra seats outside on the square. If you feel like completing your gastronomic experience, ask for a serving of “puntarelle condite”: chicory salad dressed with a pesto of garlic, anchovies and vinegar. May sound creepy, but it’s surprisingly good!

P.S. the tiny little church of St. Barbara, next door, is a little gem. Step inside if it’s open (sometimes a Gospel Chorus rehearsas there).

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Dar Filettaro a Santa Barbara | Snacks | Fried cod from € 5.00
Largo dei Librai 88 | City center
Mon – Sat usually from 18:30 (in summer later), sometimes also open at lunch
Closing day may vary (tuesday is often choosen, too)

I believe shopping is an investment and night shopping is fun.

This store is also open in the evening and till late at night four days a week. If you are strolling around the piazza Navona area you should walk to this hi-tech shop where you can find design kitchen accessories, small furniture, cute original gifts to bring back home.

It is specialized in wine glasses, decanters, wine portable coolers and other technical utensils and equipment, for example, tools to measure wine temperature. I bought plates, spoons and forks and various kitchen and house implements, hardware in general, also particular gadgets that make my home fun, colored, lively, fashionable and stylish.

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DcubeDesign | Shopping
Via della Pace 38 | City center | +39066861218
Mon – Wed 11:00 – 21:00

A homy atmosphere. It’s not a crowded club, it’s not a busy cafè, it’s not a loud pub, it’s not a noisy bar. I would call it a “living room with kitchen and bookcases”. A sofa, three armchairs and a couple of chairs round three tables, lamps and books on sale make this small, comfy place.

Cozy for a good drink and a calm, warm chat. You can also sit at the counter on a stool for a more casual booze. Breakfast in the morning, snacks at lunchtime, munchies in the evening. The staff is extremely nice and friendly.

I came here with my Facebook friend Federico from Italy’s northwestern Genoa, a beautiful sea front city. We had a glass of Pinot grigio while we enjoyed talking about books, literature, and life in general. I noticed that, compared to other places, the wine glasses are bigger and very well filled up. Together with the drink they served us olives, nuts, chips, and small Italian crispy bagels.

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Emporio alla Pace | Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks | Glass of wine € 4.00
via della Pace 28, | City center | +390668802938
06:00 – 02:00 daily

In the heart of Rome’s ‘drinking triangle’, this exclusive Provence-style wine bar draws its charm from a minimalist, fake shabby-chic (rather elegant!) décor and a palette of drinking and eating options.

Managed by two brothers who, in spite of their young age, are among the most experienced entrepreneurs of cool bars in Rome (sometimes you find them behind the bar), Etabli is a café, a restaurant and a wine bar, all in one.

It’s romantic, warm, and packed with locals (that will leave you with a desire of moving to Italy…..) It is so beautifully decorated, so well done you may have the impression of being in a rather plush living room with comfortable armchairs and sofas, rather than in a bar.
During the winter season, the fireplace is on but don’t worry…during the hot season the old building it is host into guarantee a cooler temperature!

From 19:00 daily aperitivo is served: wines and drinks are accompanied by delicious finger food (buffet-style), to warm you up before dinner.

Unfortunately, being located in the city center, there is no terrace, but its interiors are so nice you won’t regret it. If you wish to dine there, you’d better make a reservation!

P.S. A good place to take a date!

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Etabli | Bars, Coffee & tea, Restaurants (Italian) | Drinks from € 6.00
Vicolo delle Vacche 9/a | City center | +390697616694
Restauramt 12:00 – 15:00 & 19:00 – 00:00 daily, Winebar 18:00 – 02:00 daily

Officially called Il palazzo del freddo but most commonly know as Fassi’s is one of the oldest “gelateria” in the city. It has been at the current location for over 60 years. When you enter the facility you will notice a mix of modern fixtures and an “antique” atmosphere

The ice-cream is delicious and you have plenty of tastes to choose from. They also have a variety of sweets, like for example something called “san pietrini” a Roman specialty and a must for chocolate lovers!

They also have hot drinks in different flavors such as chocolate, white chocolate, vanilla, and zabaione. This is definitely a gelateria not to miss! This was one of my favorite hang-outs when I took some courses nearby, and it was often that it became a lunch spot.

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Fassi’s | Snacks | 3 flavors icecream € 1.50
Via Principe Eugenio 65 | City center | +39064464740
12:00 – 01:00 daily

This location is one of the most fascinating of city center. The ideal place for people who love fashion and cool places.

Fluid was created with the aim to show how nature and technology can live together in the same environment; materials and furniture represent this conflict very well: a tree tries go out from the walls, and in the so called “Ice room”, you sit on ice cube sofas, surrounded by last generation plasma TV’s.

The bar opens from late afternoon and at this time you can have a complete “aperitivo” with a great choice of food (like cous-cous, “supplì”, “focaccia” etc…), excellent both for quantity and quality.

To accompany the food, you can choose between wines (which you can get in bottle or in glass) or from the list or cocktails made by the barman. A special mention must be made for “Spritz”, a typical drink from Venice which is very hard to find in Rome.

From around 22:00 the bar becomes a cultural melting pot and the resident DJ entertains people with nu-jazz and deep house music.

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Fluid | Bars, Snacks | Drinks € 8.00
Via del Governo Vecchio 46/47 | City center | +39066832361
From 18:00 daily

EnglishYellowPages staff regularly organizes seasonal events for its members and friends. A network of English-speaking professionals are invited to gather at a venue to spend and enjoy time together, talk about business, exchange views, eat and drink, like it occured on December 2 2008 at Galleria, a new hitech design restaurant located in the renowned Galleria Colonna, also known as Galleria Sordi.

In this refined yet informal atmosphere, I was struck by a room in particular with innovative “magic” glass doors: a private space where the most reserved guests can sit and decide whether they want to keep the doors open or shut. And if they want them shut, they can also opt to have the glasses go from transparent to opaque, isolating themselves completely from the rest of the diner.

Not only the design and architecture is avant-garde, but also the food. There are different selections chosen according to the different times of day and seasons. At lunchtime the menu offers light meals and more elaborate dishes at dinnertime. And sandwiches, salads and desserts for afternoon snacks.

You all know by now that I go for the vegetarian dishes, like zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta cheese with rice and light mint pesto sauce or the eggplant pie. The wines are carefully selected and they mainly come from northern Italy’s regions Tuscany, Piedmont and Veneto.

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Galleria | Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks, Restaurants (Italian) | Lunch € 20.00
Galleria Alberto Sordi 53 | City center | +390685355431
12:00 – 23:00 daily

The best carciofi alla giudia in town. You must try this very special plate of artichokes, fried and pressed. They look flat and crispy. They are a typical Roman-Jewish plate. The meat is good too.

Everything on the menu, depending on your personal taste, is extremely of high quality. After all, it is very difficult to eat bad food in Rome, wherever you go.

The restaurant has also outdoor tables. Right next to it there is the famous Teatro Marcello, which looks like the Colosseum but it isn’t. And there is part of the Roman forum where during the Summer a series of concerts or little plays are held.

It is a good place to spend either lunch or dinner. It is in the Jewish ghetto, behind the main temple, the Synagogue, off the lungotevere opposite the Isola Tìberina.

After your meal you may want to take a walk along the Tiber’s banks. Just cross the main road (Lungotevere). walk across a little bridge and go down the steps. But before taking off, you must have your fried artichokes.

Do not be deceived, this is not a Kosher restaurant. There is one on the same sidewalk some twenty meters ahead.

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Giggetto | Restaurants (Roman) | Meal (excl. wine) € 40.00
Via Portico d’Ottavio 21/a- 22 | City center | +39066861105
Tue – Sun 13:00 – 15:00 & 20:00 – 23:00

Something in between an hair saloon and a concept store, Paliotta Hair is must if you want to indulge into a real treat!

Located near Campo de’ Fiori, it offers to its guests far more than just a perfect hair fix: from clothing to accessories, from a collection of international magazines to russian reknown Kusmi teas, in their colorful, fancy metal boxes. And don’t forget to take with you one of the imported products containing cannabis and caviar: looks like they are the real best on the market for an healty scalp and glorious hair!

P.S. Giuseppe’s pet, Nuvola, is part of the decoration, and the overall experience!

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Giuseppe Paliotta Hair Saloon | Coffee & tea, Relaxing, Shopping
PIazza della Cancelleria, 70 | City center | +39066869154
Tue – Sat 10:00 -18:00

Time of “granita” again”!

What is the “granita di caffè”, you will ask? Well, take their espresso (rumored to be the best in the city, unless you prefer their bitter rival, Caffè Sant’Eustachio. I don’t.), add ice and basically it, somehow, becomes this frozen yet soft blend that is just delicious… you must try it.

Many claim “granita” is more appropriate having during the warm season…forget about it, it’s good all year around! Anyway, the warm season has arrived in Rome and, now…there is NO excuse for anyone coming to Rome not making a stop here!

It is best served with fresh whipped cream; here they are sooo good to make that, too. Very indulgent. But you can always claim you need some caffeine to keep with the jetleg, or the Rome jet-set you may meet by strolling down the streets surroundings this Caffè. Get one, and get happy.

Ah, before I forget: the espresso and cappuccino are equally worth your visit! During the hot season you may want to try the shakerato (iced coffee mixed with sugar and crushed ice, shaken until it becomes thick and frothy).

Coffee ground on-site is available for purchase and can be shipped worldwide.

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Gran Caffè Tazza d’Oro | Coffee & tea, Shopping | Granita con panna € 2.50
Via degli orfani 84 | City center | +39066792768
Mon – Sat 07:00 – 20:00

A small glass door that opens on a sleek, chinese corner. Maybe the best in town. Elegant, quiet, intimate and…delicious!

Green T is very different from any other Chinese restaurant in town. Expensive too, for anyone used to stuff him/herself with just a couple of notes.

During lunchtime they have a fixed menu that ranges from 8 euro (quick meal) to 17 euro (fish menu), it also offer an “a la carte” menu, with deli from all around China.

It’s open at lunch & dinner time (12.30-15.00; 19.30-24.00), it also offer tea, Chinese design objects, books, clothing, and a very special experience.

P.S. perfect for a date!

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Green T | Coffee & tea, Shopping, Restaurants (Chinese) | Lunch from € 8.00
Via Piè di Marmo, 28 | City center | +39066798628
Mon – Sat 12:30 – 15:00 & 19:30 – 00:00

Classy, trendy and rich of “taste” like its name. Excellent cuisine, excellent wines, excellent service. I really enjoy spending time here, either at the bar for a drink or at the restaurant upstairs. At night, at times, there is also live music.

Next to the restaurant there is a shop where you can buy good wines, kitchen utensils and cuisine books. You can also find the waiters’ outfit on sale: I bought the apron. The only thing I have experienced is that the salespeople are stuck up and not fully polite, and most of all they often do not give you a receipt which is an obligation by the law.

Instead, the owner of the chain of restaurants is extremely nice and the staff is professional. There is also a sommelier that will help you choose the appropriate wine for your meal.

On the same square, there is also ‘Gusto Fish and vegetables (piazza Augustoi Imperatore 28) where I usually go at lunch time. What I usually pick is a salad, a sandwich or a variety of small bowls that you can choose among plenty different dishes to taste. The design and furniture of all the ‘Gusto chain spots is modern and newly restyled.

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Gusto | Bars, Restaurants (Mediterranean) | Pizza € 15.00
piazza Augusto Imperatore 9 | City center | +39063226273
12:30 15:30 & 19:30 – 00:00 daily

This little bar is located in the city center, close to the Pantheon area. If you go early enough before midnight, you can enjoy live music while drinking either a beer, a martini special (my absolute favorite drink, it is a chocolaty sweet martini but the recipe seems to be a secret!) or any other tropical drinks from martinis, tequila sunrises or pina coladas.

Their drink menu is pretty extensive and their average drink goes for 5.00 Euro and they come with some food such as chips, saltines or popcorn.

After midnight be ready to start burning those calories with the 90’s disco style music, modern pop and rock and oldies!

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Habana Cafe | Bars, Music | Average drink € 5.00
Via dei Pastini 120 | City center | +39066781983
Tue – Sun 21:30 – 03:00

THE NEW SPRING/SUMMER COLLECTION IS COMING SOON! And the previous one is still there, equally nice!

This time my selection isn’t a location, not only, at least. It goes straight to a person. His name is Gilbert El Halaby, he is Lebanese and he’s damn good at designing bags, jewels, bijoux and any other accessory you may think of to lift up your look! Kind and charming, he made is dream come true by opening a shop of fashion accessories in the very heart of the Italian capital, just a few steps away from the Pantheon, in the narrow Via del Seminario.

His creations are still affordable, yet absolutely unique, with a top end flavour that can lift any girl’s mood instantly. The perfect gift from Rome for your dearest one!

The shop itself is a real gem: interior design and décor, again by Gilbert, attracts you in like a mermaid song (and let you wonder if the furniture and decorations are on sales, too – yes, some are!)

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Halaby | Art & culture, Shopping | From € 10.00
Via del Seminario | City center
10:00 – 19:30 daily

Rome is one of the most beautiful ancient cities in the world and a great place to visit for Valentine’s Day, a romantic holiday or weekend break.

Hotels in Rome

If you have visited Rome you will already know that the streets are narrow and the buildings are old. Most hotels in Rome are located in ancient buildings so don’t be surprised if you arrive at a 4 or 5 -star hotel which looks like it has seen better days.

The 4-star Hotel Archimede is just a few steps from Rome Termini railway station which makes it a great central location. I stayed at this hotel for 6 nights and was very impressed by the service. It was very clean and the buffet breakfast first class.  There are lots of restaurants nearby, my favourite of which is the Piccola Spazio just below the hotel. Great food and reasonable prices.

Cesaretto wine bar is one of my favorite places in Rome and I am there so much that they know my name, and in fact a lot of the people that frequent the wine bar are regulars and it is in a side street off Via Del Corso. The environment is friendly and laid back but the food is upscale deliciousness.

I like going there year round, it is small but during the warmer months you can sit outside and watch people. Sometimes celebrities (national or international) pass by, and during the cooler months they have an area inside that is very cozy and warm.

My favorites to get there are the Carbonara pasta or the ravioli with a Fragolino wine to go with it, but most days they have a special that is not on the menu and go ahead and ask for it and most likely you will eat something delicious.

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Il Cesaretto | Bars, Restaurants (Ravioli) | € 10.00
Via Bocca di Leone 44a | City center | +390669380557
12:00 – 23:00 daily

It’s amazing how this city can still surprise its guests! Just a few steps away from the buzz of the tourists crowd in Campo de’ Fiori, this spot is perfect to immerse you again into the “real Rome” feeling.

It’s nothing more than a courtyard, but so secluded, characteristic and charming that it has become, to me, a real must. If I’m stressed by the traffic, or the noise, I just take a walk and look under the little arch for this tiny, peaceful spot. And I fall in love with my hometown once again!

Old, faded paint, houses; shadowed terraces and (just) apparently unorganized plant branches and flowers. If you are lucky enough, the two house cats may search for your caresses and care. Occasionally, music from an open window may interrupt the magic, but just to take you into a different one, made of the relaxed attitude of the few lucky residents…

Besides, the Cortiletto enjoy a great location along Via del Pellegrino: ethnic spots – such as a Syrian bar and shop – wine bars, travel bookshop, young artists’ ateliers and curiosity shops will pay you back for your visit.

Keep in mind it is a private property: make sure your visit, even if short and respectful, won’t disturb the residents.

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Il cortiletto di Via del Pellegrino | Art & culture
Via del Pellegrino | City center
Accessible any time of the day, if residents allow you so

Beware of any competitor! On the same street you will find other 2 “fornos”: be careful, as they are good, but not AS good!

“Our” (me, my colleagues’ and my friends’) favorite one is the last one you will find coming from Piazza di Pietra towards the Pantheon, on the left hand side. It is a bakery, nothing else.

What is really special is the “pizza bianca”, roman style: thin, crunchy and soft at the same time, perfectly salted and always warm! You can have it plain, but I strongly recommend you to fill it with “mortadella”.

During the summer season, you may even decide to get a couple of figs fruit and ask the shop attendants (also owners, and bakers, and managers, and…) to fill it with figs and raw ham for you (used to be a very traditional recipee up to the ’80s). If you’ve never tried the figs/ham combination, that is the chance to do it. “Pizza rossa” (dressed with tomato sauce) is also veeery good: slightly thicker than the “white”one, it is prepared with extra-virgin olive oil. A cheap meal has never been that tasty!

The shop also sells refreshments and home made cookies.

Beware that it closed for lunch-time: make sure you’ll be there by 13:30 at the latest.

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Il Forno di Via dei Pastini | Snacks | Pizza mortadella € 2.50
Via dei Pastini | City center
Fri – Wed 08:30 – 13:30 & 15:30 – 18:00, Thu 08:30 – 13:30

IL PAGLIACCIO KEEPS WINNING AWARDS…No wonder, it’s among the best gourmet restaurant in town!

Crisis, economical downturn, negative attitude…eventually, we are all very much into quality vs. money. So, should you feel like treating you (or your dearest) Il Pagliaccio won’t disappoint you. It may sound pricey compare to other restaurant in town, but its quality is undoubtedly excellent, and worth every penny.

Food, presentation, service, courtesy…every details is perfectly taken care of, to guarantee an unforgettable experience.  The atmosphere is made up by two welcoming halls and a smaller room for the aperitif and after-dinner entertainment. Some of the dishes that are, or have been on the menu are: rabbit salad with barley and vanilla with a fried oyster; broad bean broth with cappelletti and Roman broccoletti; Gragnano paccheri with bieta and ricotta cheese; ox tail with meatballs. Breads are home-made and their smell sometimes leaves the kitchen and reaches the lucky guests! The desserts are just spectacular, both in taste (soooo yummy!) and presentation, thanks the pastry-queen Marion Lichtle from Alsace…I wish I could try them all!

The menu changes seasonally, or according to special occasions or events, so expect to find a different cart every now and then. Of course, as its standard may suggest, Il Pagliaccio is also friendly to vegetarian, gluten-sensitive and allergic people, and it’s accessible to wheelchairs, too.

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Il Pagliaccio | Restaurants (Gourmet) | Meal € 75.00
Via dei Banchi Vecchi 129a | City center | +390668809595
Mon – Tue dinner, Wed – Sat lunch & dinner

Il Peperone is a nice little restaurant in Via Veneto, which is one of the most famous streets in Rome, but usually untouchable for the prices. When I first went to Il Peperone with a friend of mine who had come to visit me from the States, I was impressed with the prices because they were affordable compared to their competitors.

My friend wanted to have coffee in Via Veneto but I said “I have a better idea: lets have pizza!” and the food turned out to be great. The restaurant offers a variety of different dishes, mainly Roman typical foods but also a variety of general Italian ones. I like seating outside as you can sit and relax and people watch in the heart of Rome.

My friend and I had a great time and the service was great, we ordered some delicious Roman appetizers and a pizza each. The owner Antonietta is very friendly and laid-back, she even said OK to take a picture with me!

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Il Peperone restaurant | Snacks, Restaurants (Pizza) | Pizza Margheritia € 10,00
Via Veneto 97 | City center | +39064884593
Oct – Apr 12:00 – 16:00 & 18:00 – 00:00 daily | May – Sept 18:00 – 00:00 daily

The name of the place says it all: it is small, piccolo. But it is cute and cozy. Not by chance that an Italian saying goes like this: “Good wine is in the small barrel”. You can pick from a menu “by the glass” which changes regularly. The wines rotate weekly. The “by the bottle” menu is rich of good wines from all the 20 Italian regions.

My favorites are Falanghina and Greco di Tufo. It is in a good spot, by a road near piazza Navona, the hot spot usually beaten by Romans and non Romans. There is also a barman outdoors who prepares cocktails at a stall to take away, and in the winter during Christmas time, there’s a waitress dressed up as the famous old woman who brings toys to children on January 6th, day of the Epiphany. She is called the Befana and she will be serving you vin brulé.

It is a perfect place where to hang out, drink and have a bite: tarts, cheeses, artichokes, dried tomatoes and champignon mushrooms make my day, and my night. And when I need to be sweetened up I go for the homemade cakes.

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Il Piccolo | Bars, Snacks | Wine € 5.00
Via del Governo Vecchio 74-75 | City center | +390668801746
12:00 – 02:00 daily

Maureen is an elegant and attractive English woman from Yorkshire who has been living in Rome for over 18 years. Together with her husband Carlo, she opened her first restaurant in 1990 and, by working hard, she has expanded her expertise becoming entrepreneurs in the food and beverage industry field in one of Rome’s most famous streets: the Dolce Vita via Veneto.

They managed overcoming numerous economic crisis (Gulf war, 9/11) without firing anyone of their professional and courteous staff, and are still surviving well the recent critical financial period.

On my birthday, April 4th, I spent part of the afternoon at one of the places Maureen owns and runs, drinking Ginger Ale on the rocks, munching tarts and pizza, chatting with my dear mother about our crazy shopping, sitting outdoors next to her exclusive restaurant Il Vineto.

Il Vineto offers a sophisticated menu: excellent fresh fish-you can see it exposed in a transparent fish tank as you enter the restaurant- Oysters, lobsters, turbot and many Mediterranean fish, cuisine, including classic Roman dishes such as Saltimbocca alla romana, the name literally translates as hopinthemouth, veal cutlets topped with prosciutto Italian ham) and sage.

It’s an intimate and quiet place, excellent for a romantic dinner, finely decorated, the dominant color is orange, which is said to be relaxing and appropriate for dining rooms. The choice of wines is extremely vast. The service is excellent. You’ll get smiles, something rare to find in a rowdy city like Rome.

Il Vineto is a mix between Mediterranean flavors and English courtesy. I recommend this restaurant, walking distance from Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps and all the City Center’s trendy venues. Obviously, English is very well spoken here.

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Il Vineto | Restaurants (Mediterranean) | Average meal € 35.00
via Vittorio Veneto 6 | City center | +3906486617
12:00 – 00:00 daily

Every woman knows how important it is to wear a comfortable bra. Wear the wrong one and, by the end of the day, you will know the true meaning of torture.

Many women, however, also don’t want to trade-off style and aesthetics for comfort. Bras are the quintessential garment to feel feminine. It is pleasant when you wear something appealing and stylish. And what better place to find stylish, fashionable underwear than in Rome?

For both these reasons, comfort AND style, you should visit Riccardo’s lingerie store. Who is Riccardo? Riccardo is a 37-year-old guy who is truly an expert in lingerie. Why? He’s been immersed in bras and underwear since he was a teenager. His mom, Jole, owned a little lingerie store and, as is typical here in Italy, kids help out in the family business. One may have thought that gender would have been an obstacle but this has not been the case. Riccardo’s competence has grown over the years and, now, he runs his mom’s small, cluttered, unpretentious shop and gives his aficionado customers all sorts of advice.

After listening to his customer’s needs, he recommends the models he thinks are most appropriate for one’s size, shape and tastes. Needless to say, narrowing down the choice in the end will be difficult simply because his suggestions will have been so right on target. To renew your lingerie, for a great shopping experience and to dismiss old gender stereotypes, go shopping at Riccardo’s.

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Jole Shop | Shopping | A bra € 30
Via Emanuele Filiberto 227 | City center | +390670492626
Mon – Sat 09:30 – 13:30 & 16:00 – 20:00

I am aware that restrooms are certainly not the main feature one may consider when choosing a bar, but I would make an exception for this spot, and I warmly recommend you to do the same!

Actually, it’s all amazing in here: from the owner (meet him!), to the paintings that decorate the walls (all made by himself), to the fancy people that hang around… This extraordinary space is decorated with colorful kitsch, pop art, and plastic furniture evoking Andy Warhol’s famous old “Factory” in New York.

Live piano music is played every night by eccentric local musicians who often ask the audience to join in (and they do. I suspect many go just for that chance!).

Just stop by for a drink, meet plenty of other tourist and locals and pay a visit to the bathroom, entered through a pleasure garden, even if you don’t have to; mayb

e even bring a camera!

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Jonathan’s Angels | Bars, Music | Cocktails from € 8.00
Via della Fossa 14/16 | City center | +39066893426
Mon – Fri 20:00 – 03:00, Sat – Sun 18:30 – 03:00

Non-Italian speakers must know that since the translation of the name of the restaurant is “Rich salad”. This is your chance to escape from the groove of pasta and pizza in Rome!

Although on the menu there is also a big choice of cheese, meat and fish (and pasta and pizza of course!) to satisfy many predilections, you can’t miss to taste a huge and amazing salad chosen from a list of more 45 kinds: my favorite’s are “Bufala” and “Gamberetti”, but because of such as big list,I didn’t taste all kinds.

Anyhow the salads can be ranked in 4 classes: vegan, with meat or fish, with exotic fruit, with dried fruit. And after you’ve ordered your salad,I really advise don’t eat bread with it, but order hot “focaccia” just oven baked, it’s much better!

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L’insalata ricca | Restaurants (Salads) | Dinner € 20.00
Largo dei chiavari 85 | City center | +390668803656
Mon – Sat 12:00 – 16:00 & 19:00 – 00:00, Sun 12:00 – 00:00

La Cabala is a rather chic place, a lounge of Rome that turns into the exclusive nightclub Wednesday to Saturday night.

The club is located in a historic building that overlooks the Lungotevere, in the heart of Rome and a stone’s throw from Piazza Navona. It’s part of the restaurant “Hosteria dell’orso”, one of the most renowned restaurants in the capital.

The furniture is focused on comfort and reception, with large and comfortable sofas and soft lights.

The club is divided into 3 areas. Upstairs you can unleash yourself with the best dance and house hits of the moment. Onthe lower level there is the piano-bar that plays the hits of the’60s ,’70s,’80s and’90s. Finally, in the transition areas between the two dance-floors you can sit, relax and have a chat.

I strictly recommend the parties on Saturday night and for men to wear a shirt.

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La Cabala | Bars, Music | Entrance & 1 drink € 15.00
Via dei Soldati 25 | City center | +390668301192
Wed – Sat 23:00 – 05:00

If you want to get away from the noise and bustle of Piazza Navona, this is the place for you.

When you get in, the first thing that you see is the huge wood oven where pizzas are cooked in “Napoli’s way”; then, going downstairs, you’ll find four rooms with air conditioning.

During summer, sitting outside is simply delightful because you eat looking at “Chiostro del Bramante” in a peaceful and wonderful atmosphere. But the interior rooms downstairs are very charming too and if the outdoor tables are filled, you won’t mind to sit inside…

The main features of La Focaccia are reasonable prices, an incredibly extensive menu and wonderfully prepared fresh food.

Food of La Focaccia is simply amazing! I advice just my favorites, but you have a great choice: fried food (particulary “supplì with truffle”), “spicy panzerotto”, pizza with bufala and pachino tomato called “Sorrentina”, bruschetta and focaccia of course.

Another nice thing about the food is that you can create your own pizza and decide with which ingredients to top it. Also the waiters are helpful and kind, they speak English and the menu is translated in English too.

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La Focaccia | Restaurants (Italian) | Meal & wine € 25.00
Via della Pace 11 | City center | +390668803312
12:00 – 16:00 & 19:00 – 00:00 daily

La Maison is one of the hippest clubs in Rome and the most chic of course!

The selection at the entrance is very strict, particularly for groups of men without ladies. I’ll give you some tips to get in: go there very early and dress with jacket and shirt. If you are more than two it’s better if you go in smaller groups. And always smile!

When you get in and you see the big hall, you won’t think it’s a dance floor, but the living room of a an ancient house: in fact there are huge lamps from the 18th century and couches and imperial-style armchairs.

Because of the strict selection at the entrance, inside the club there are no paparazzi, so it’s easy to meet international VIP who are visiting Rome, like for example Lenny Kravitz or Leonardo Di Caprio or Italian football players, that enjoy the city with no risks to see their face on some gossip newspaper.

The best parties are on Tuesday and Thursday night, but the club is really overcrowded during the weekends when the Romans decide to enjoy all night long!

From June to September La Maison changes its location and moves every year in a different location of Rome to transform to open-air club: in summer 2008 if you wanna enjoy this cool club, you must go in Viale dei Gladiatori, just a few meters from the Olympic stadium.

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La Maison | Bars, Music | Drink, free entry € 10.00
Vicolo dei Granari 4 | City center | +39066833312
Tue – Sun 23:00 – 04:00

If you are pizza-lover, you must know that there are two ways to make pizza: “Napoli’s way”, which means to eat thick and soft pizza, and “Roma’s way”, that means to eat thin and crusty pizza.

This is the kingdom of Roman pizza definitely! Here the “romanità” is the keyword, not only for the kind of pizza you eat, which is always well-stuffed and served on metallic plates, but also for the waiters that represent the roman “stereotype” of nice and joking man. They are the strength of the restaurant because their service is very fast, sometimes too fast, efficient and cured.

In addition to pizza, I really recommend the appetizers, particularly “Montecarlo bruschetta” and fried food.

Usually there’s always a huge line at the entrance, so not only I recommend to book a table, but I suggest you to show just in time too (and if you’re a group, all the members must show in time or you won’t get the table).

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La Montecarlo | Restaurants (Pasta, Pizza) | Meal € 15.00
Vicolo dei Savelli 13 | City center | +390644249600
Tue – Sun 12:00 – 14:30 & 19:00 – 01:00

La Sorgente is a nice Chinese restaurant in a side street of the city center, right where Piazza di Spagna is (Spanish Steps). My friend who works downtown and knows pretty much every nook and canny of the city center brought me to this restaurant which has great Chinese food and a happy wait staff, plus there is rarely a line to be  seated.

I have been going there a few times when I am craving Chinese food and have sort of the usual every time: I start out with the steamed dumpling, the spring rolls and then get the duck entrée…I am having a craving right now, I am probably going to call some friends for dinner tomorrow!

I love the simple and elegant décor of the restaurant and how they made space in it like having tables on the hallway, or you can dine near the aquarium, and it is right around the corner from Piazza di Spagna where is perfect to take a walk after dinner.

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La Sorgente | Restaurants (Chinese) | Steamed Dumplings € 5.00
Via Dei Greci 5 | City center | +390645455011
11:00 – 23:30 daily

La Vecchia Roma is in the heart of Rione Monti area. As its name says, it’s a typical Roman restaurant where you can eat both meat or fish.

As every typical Roman restaurant, it’s not very big inside so big groups of people could have some difficult to find a table, and if you don’t want to wait for long time it’s better to call and book your table in advance.

The cool thing of being a roman restaurant is that the atmosphere is very friendly and easygoing and you can eat both pizza or roman dishes as “Pasta alla Carbonara” or “Pasta Cacio e Pepe”. If you want to try something different, there are some dishes made from ingredients mixed in an unusual way, like for example “Gnocchi con sugo di cozze e vongole”.

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La Vecchia Roma | Restaurants (Roman) | Meal € 25.00
Via Leonina 10 | City center | +39064745887
Mon – Sat 12:30 – 14:30 & 19:00 – 23:00

Le Coppelle 52 is one of the most popular meeting place to meet the Romans, who come here every night, especially in summer, to have a drink and relax on the charming square.

The strength of Le Coppelle 52 is definitely the scenic square on which it is located and which gives it the name. When the weather’s nice, it becomes the perfect place to enjoy a good drink, well-made cocktails and traditional buffet (not very copious be honest …).

The restaurant is a real open-air lounge, with its eccentric zebra armchairs, is the ideal place to spend the summer evenings, sipping house specialties like the ginger mojito, pepper mojito or the melon Caipiroska, immersed in the frame of one of the most characteristic streets of the capital.

Inside, red is the dominant color, all surrounded by simple lines and minimali design. And the service is almost perfect!

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Le Coppelle 52 | Bars, Coffee & tea | Drink € 10.00
Piazza Le coppelle 52 | City center
18:00 – 02:00 daily

This is a historical market that has its origins in the early 1970’s. It is located near a wonderful Church: The Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano. I like coming here because of the variety of things that you can find and great deals on clothes that are made with good quality material. If you are in the market for some leather jackets at a reasonable price here is the place to go and remember to negotiate a little for a better price!

Here you can buy fishing equipment, clothes from all seasons all for really low prices.

To reach the Mercatino you can take the Metro A and get off at S.Giovanni

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Mercatino di Via Sannio | Shopping | belt € 5.00
Via Sannio | City center
Mon – Fri 08:00 – 13:00, Sat 08:00 – 18:00

The New York Times once offered it as the ‘best money saving tip’ for Rome when visiting the Eternal City on a budget. But I think you should visit the Esquilino market (better known as the Piazza Vittorio market) not only for its cheap groceries, but also to witness Rome’s slow progression into a multicultural city, catering to the diverse needs of immigrants.

The market used to be one of Rome’s most important and traditional markets. It was located outdoors at the center of Piazza Vittorio and used to be run mostly by Italian –or rather Roman- vendors. As the Esquilino district evolved into a largely immigrant neighborhood, (it is now seen as Rome’s Chinatown), the market was moved indoors in a former milk plant just east of the piazza, and its vendors, as well as its shoppers, are now almost exclusively immigrants.

The Esquilino market is an interesting place to visit to immerse yourself in an exotic atmosphere. Here, you will be able to puzzle at the odd shapes of some vegetables; you will be overpowered by the bright colors and strong smells of spices; you will be frazzled by the din of a multitude of different languages.

Mostly, after having purchased 26 different types of rice and an equally high number of different spices, you will have had a different experience of the ever-evolving Eternal City.

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Mercato di Piazza Vittorio | Shopping |
Via Principe Amedeo | City center
Mon – Sat 07:00 – 14:00

It is the most comfortable movie theater in town and it regularly shows movies in English. The seats are spacious, the screens are huge, all four theaters are equipped with dolby digital.

Recently, I have seen movies like Public Enemies with Johnny Depp, 2012, Julia&Julia with Meryl Streep, Quentin Tarantino’s Inglourious Basterds and many other films that I always enjoy, because they are not dubbed in Italian as all imported films in Italy are. The Metropolitan shows them in original version with subtitles in Italian.

If you go on Wednesdays the ticket costs €5.50. Same price for the first show during week days. At the weekend, the ticket is €7.50 like all weekly evening shows. Opening time varies according to the beginning of the first show, which usually starts around 16:00. The staff is courteous. There is a bar inside the cinema. The toilets are clean.

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Metropolitan Cinema | Cinemas | Ticket € 7.50
via del Corso 7, | City center | +39063200933
16:00 – 00:00 daily

Among the “Rome must”, this happening club is an underground space in a residential district squeezed between the basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano and the one of S. Croce.

Once a huge wine cellar, nowadays the Club features a labyrinth structure defined by a spectacular spiral staircase, elegant columns and magnificent vaults. An unusual addition to Rome’s nightlife, Micca Club offers an extensive program of DJs performances, radio transmissions, visual arts that, vintage and burlesque markets four nights a week. Live concerts, dance floor, three bars, lounge area and an art gallery make it the most versatile spot!

Music ranges from jazz, funk and soul to Friday’s exotic melodies. Saturday nights are just fabulous! and the Sundays…Burlesque Shows are featured once a month, whilst a vintage/creative market is held every Sunday from 6 pm, selling clothes, design objects, records, etc. The ”Aperitivo” (buffet style) is excellent, offering a chance of drinking (eating) and chatting whilst listening to the selection of resident and host DJs, from 18.30. Check the website for dates and schedule!

P.S. search for me, I may be there!

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Micca Club | Bars, Music | Cocktail from € 8.00
Via Pietro Micca 7/a | City center | +390687440079
Mon – Tue & Thu – Sat 19:00 – 03:00, Sun 18:00 – 03:00

Once you’ll get to know Misty Beethoven and Ornella, owner and manager, you won’t regret to have missed that exhibition or that monument…

If you are in the mood for love, sensuality and an insight into your most secret desires, you cannot miss a visit to this shop. Actually, I feel uncomfortable call it just “shop”, as there’s so much to Misty than just items on sale.

It is all about vision, sensuality, dream and self-awareness. Step in and boost your self-esteem and your self-confidence: just any girl should – at least once! – wear those sexy Vivienne Westwood leather boots or that Agent Provocateur lingerie. Ornella carefully selects only what she likes the most; she loves to make sure guests can enjoy what’s better for them, from latex outfit by Atsuko to lace corsets or perfumes, scented candles or massage oils…

The shop is a little gem by itself. Bold colors and leopard print decorated the walls whilst lingerie, erotic bijoux and sex toys are just left around, on the velvet couch or coming out from the drawers with apparent nonchalance, as it was a lovers’ bedroom…Occasionally, Ornella runs Burlesque and strip tease lessons, dj set, sensual aperitivo and special events. Check out the website for more info!

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Misty Beethoven | Shopping | Free
Via degli Zingari, 12 | City center | +39064881878
Mon 16:00 – 20:00, Tue – Sat 11:00 – 20:00

I know, I know. summer is here, you wanna look good in your bikini…eat healty, then! Enjoy Mozzarella!

Don’t be fooled by the “Japanese” name: the name means “here it is!” in the Neapolitan dialect – “it” being the mozzarella. It is Italy’s way on the Sushi Bar Concept, being, actually a research project based on Italian HQ products with top quality buffalo Mozzarella from the Campania region.

In this slick café, mozzarella in many forms – entwined, blobs, balls – is paired with an excellent – and extensive – choice of cold cuts, cured hams, salads, pasta dishes and other delicacies from all over the country. Very good Italian wines are on the list, too.

The first mozzarella bar in the city, and perhaps the world (other Obikà locations are Milan, Turin and London. NY coming soon), Obikà is a homage to this most versatile cheese. The setting is rather funky, too (

and that’s where the Japanese misunderstanding comes from…), with designer tables (rather cramped, to be honest), plenty of black & white and steel details.

It also enjoy a lovely terrace on the street, a good place for people watching, appreciated also by the rather hipster clientele. This may be the only down side: the vibe is a little posed and, sometimes, staff go with the flow and the service may be not enough attentive. But the mozzarella is so genuine, it beats it all!

Every day, from 19:30, there is aperitivo with mozzarella bites and small tasting. On Saturday and Sunday Italian brunch is served from 12:00 – 15:00

Buon Appetito!

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Obikà Mozzarella Bar | Bars, Snacks, Restaurants (Italian) | Lunch from € 15.00
Piazza di Firenze 28 | City center | +39066832630
08:00 – 00:00 daily

I cannot stand Italian soccer, its players and all the fuss around it, but I like watching football matches in England and Germany, because the players appear to be real athletes and not protagonists of the jet set. Apart from the game itself, I am fond of all the soccer outfits and uniforms, badges, emblems, scarves, caps and gadgets.

This small, cute museum-like store, with a floor that looks like a soccer field in miniature, sells soccer items, including old traditional emblems of each Italian team. The coat of arms are made in Italy, of course, in the Marche region which is famous for making heraldic and symbolic objects made of marble and alabaster. Cost: €60.

Soccer shirts cost €65. Even if you are not a fan of any football team it is fun and trendy to wear one of these original shirts. I like the colors of Great Britain’s teams: Arsenal, Manchester, Liverpool, and one of my favorite is Italy’s Lanerossi Vicenza. You can also go for the “Azzurri” Italy’s national team shirt, from the black one worn only once in 1938, to the 1982 shirt when Dino Zoff was the goalkeeper, till nowadays. Caps for €20 and vintage shoes are also a good idea for a gift.

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Old Soccer | Shopping | Soccer shirt € 65.00
via di Ripetta, 30 | City center | +39063219448
10:00 – 20:00 daily

I came here with a guy called Gustavo. He was very nice, as nice as the place he picked to treat me dinner. Next to us sat an Italian politician with his wife. They were laughing when I told the waitress that the cook could have put a couple more ravioli in the plate and the restaurant would not have gone out of business.

Yes, I must say that the food is superb, but the portions are ‘minimalist’. However, the environment is pleasant and relaxing, and you really need that in a chaotic and noisy city like Rome.

It is located right in front of Adrian’s Temple, a step from the government headquarters and a few meters from the Pantheon.

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Osteria dell Ingegno | Restaurants (Mediterranean) | Average meal € 40.00
piazza di Pietra 45 | City center | +39066780662
Mon – Sat 12:30 – 23:00

I like old-fashioned life style and going back in time is like watching a black and white movie with all its charm and appeal. Just like Palazzo Altemps, one of Rome’s Renaissance buildings not as well-known as others, not even by the Romans themselves.

Palazzo Altemps is not far from my neighborhood post office and close to piazza Navona, one of the most visited places in the world. Hidden in a corner right off the Bernini’s masterpiece, Palazzo Altemps is one of the most beautiful Palazzos of the Renaissance architecture in Rome.

When I first went there I was stunned by the beauty of the rooms, but most of all I was impressed by the floor: I did not expect it to be heated. It was winter, of course, and the heating system was on. The pipes run beneath the ancient cotto pavement.

I asked the supervisors if I could sit on the floor, which isn’t quite polite to do so, but I was dying to feel the warmth under my bottom while admiring the national Roman Museum’s masterpieces kept permanently in this ancient building.I still remember that day. Plus, I was one of the few local visitors of the building among not too many tourists.

The entrance ticket is valid for three days and includes visits to Palazzo Massimo’s Museo Romano and Terme di Docleziano (opposite Termini train station) and Cripta Baldi (via Botteghe Oscure). When there is an art exhibit, the entry ticket to Palazzo Altemps is €10.

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Palazzo Altemps | Art & culture | Entrance € 7.00
Piazza Sant’Apollinare 46 | City center | +390639967700
Tue – Sun 09:00 – 19:45 (ticket office closes at 18:45)

My eyes crave for pleasure. When I need to see the beauty of art, architecture and design, I come to Palazzo delle Esposizioni, the biggest exhibition center in the city of Rome. Over ten thousand square meters on three floors. All throughout the year, you can see extraordinary art work from all over the world. It has been closed for five years and now it is finally open to the public again, restored and beautiful in its immensity, overlooking one of the widest and longest streets in the city center. In the building, there are also a movie theater, an auditorium, a bookstore, a restaurant and a café. The whole building is a piece of art itself and all the different sections inside are absolutely worth visiting.

The other day, I went to see a wonderful exhibit. For the first time in Rome, US artist Alexander Calder’s sculptures are gracefully displayed. I have always liked his masterpieces made of metal and other avant-garde material. You can see how his university degree in engineering comes in. What I admire about his art work, is that his sculptures are made of pieces that can move and float in the air, like the 1940s Art of Petals and the Cascading Flowers hanging from the ceiling as if they were cradle toys for babies. Lively and energetic. Colorful and dynamic. A game of irony.

The exhibit shows his works beginning from the 1920s, from his wire sculptures to his bronze sculptures. Abstract and surreal acrobatic figures that make you dream. They will be in Rome till St. Valentine’s day, February 14th 2010, a good occasion to celebrate your Love for Art.

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Palazzo delle Esposizioni | Art & culture, Coffee & tea | Entry exhibit € 10.00
via Nazionale 194 | City center | +390639967500
Tue – Thu & Sun 10:00 – 20:00, Fri – Sat 10:00 – 22:30

Thinking about a souvenir to carry home? Instead of going bankrupt with expensive designers goods or going tacky with plastic Colosseum reproduction, why not thinking about some pasta? It will leave your dearest happy, and you too if you manage to be treated for dinner, then…

Pastateca is the latest positive vibe in the pasta business in town. A fantastic place for those who are passionate for eating well, with original products that come from all over the country.

There is not only an infinite variety of pasta, also hand-made but also a large selection of high quality olive oils, pesto, sundried tomatoes, conserves, honey, dried mushrooms, truffles cream,.

If needed, your purchases can be vacuum packed, so that the items you are buying for your travel back will hit home safely. Clients are welcomed with appreciation and full attention, and the staff is always ready to advice you or recommend the b

est products to suit your preferences.

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Pastateca | Shopping | Free
Via della Vite, 44-45 | City center
0645491431

When I arrived at Pe.pa.to for the first “aperitivo” with a group of friends, I immediately liked the atmosphere; the tables and small white and black sofas outside gave it a sophisticated look. Inside it looked more like an old wine cellar, but it gave the place character.

The aperitivo was during the week and it made a nice break. It was a good deal too: 7 Euros for a drink plus buffet. They have two different bars. In one of them you can order the wines and in the other end of the “cellar” looking place, you can order the mixed drinks.

The good thing about Rome is its weather, in October it can be still nice to sit outside and mingle with people as you are eating and drinking.

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Pe.pa.to wine bar | Bars, Snacks | Buffet & drink € 7.00
Via del politeama 8 | City center | +390658335254
19:00 – 02:00 daily

Piazza Navona is definitely my favorite piazza or square, during any time during the year. I love the people, the architecture and the art of the square making it the most beautiful place in Rome.

I love it during the winter and especially Christmas time since they have stands all over and carnival like games. But it does not lose its fascination during the rest of the year with one of the barman always trying to persuade you for an iced tea or hot chocolate and the people that just stroll in the piazza admiring it.

I just had a friend visit me from the States and even though she is familiar with Piazza Navona, she is always in awe with the beauty, the architecture and the street art that you find. I find it interesting to see the city from a tourist point of view because when you live in a place you take a lot for granted.

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Piazza Navona | Art & culture, Relaxing
Piazza Navona | City center
24 hours daily

Welcome in the best place of Rome for the rates price/quality and price/quantity!

Some advice before starting to describe “Piccolo Abruzzo”: you’ll eat more than you ever have. If you go for lunch, don’t plan any meeting in the afternoon, and if you go for dinner, have a very very light lunch!

The restaurant works very simply: there’s a fixed menu which includes starters, first, second and side dishes, cakes, spirits, water and red wine, and the prices is about 28-30 euros (it depends on how many bottles of wine and water you took).

Concerning the starters, they will satisfy your hunger for sure: in fact you’ll get buffalo mozzarella, carpaccio, eggs, hams, a basket with several kinds of salami that you can take as you like, mortadella, ricotta and much more….

When the cook will have prepared the first dishes (yes, dishes, because they will be 2), he will pass between the seats to show what he made and if you’re lucky you can also eat from the pot!

If your stomach will be still able to eat, you’ll get on your table a pan with the second and the side dish, and after that, you can choose the dessert from one of the enticing tarts on the table accompanying it with limoncello or other spirits….

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Piccolo Abruzzo | Restaurants (Abruzzi style) | Full meal & drinks € 25.00
Via Sicilia 237 | City center | +390642820176
12:30 – 14:30 & 19:00 – 23:00 daily

The Tiber is not an impressive river by all means. Any other river in other European capital is much more striking in terms of sheer size or width. Yet, the Tiber is an interesting river. It is not a boring  river that simply flows slowly through its city without doing anything! No, the Tiber is an eclectic little river which surprises you with rapids, low points, a small waterfall, vegetation on its sides, an island and lots of different bridges, including a broken one.

Yes, Ponte Rotto, literally Broken Bridge, is one of the small peculiarities which make the Tiber such an interesting little river. What other city river has a fragment of a bridge standing in its course? I  am told that the river in Genova does but that’s besides the point. Ponte Rotto is a small gem, often disregarded in Rome’s treasure trunk with more important jewels. Romans go by their busy day and rarely look at it,  tourists have more important sites to visit in their two-day tour of the city.

Yet, Ponte Rotto is well worth a small pause. It is there, useless, yet beautiful in its decadence. Stones at its feet, weeds springing from its cracks, it sits proud and glorious, even if younger, stronger, more efficient bridges have taken over the job. It is powerless, injured, yet alive and willing to speak to anyone bothering to take a moment to admire it.

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Ponte Rotto | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
Best admired from Isola Tiberina | City center
Best time to admire: sunset

I had been told about the Magic Door when I was a child and its mysterious inscriptions and its odd placement in Piazza Vittorio had always intrigued me while growing up. I had almost forgotten about its existence until recently when I went to watch a movie in the open-air cinema which each summer occupies the piazza.

There it was, with its two guardians, pasted to a wall among some ancient ruins and closed off by a gate. Somehow, it looked less grand and mysterious than when my mother would take me to see it. Nonetheless, it is quite a curious thing and people who are intrigued by mysteries and esotericism might like take a look at it while strolling in the piazza.

Who knows, perhaps you can decipher its formulas and become rich, immortal or omniscient! The formulas on the door, in fact, are said to contain the secret to the philosopher’s stone. Yes, the Stone!

If you have seen the first Harry Potter movie, the philosopher’s stone is that which is guarded by that charming, loving three-headed dog. If you haven’t watched the movie, it is a substance that is allegedly capable of turning cheap metals into gold as well being an elixir of life to beat disease and achieve immortality and omniscience. It might well be worth trying. Why not give it a shot?

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Porta Magica | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
Piazza Vittorio | City center
Sunrise – sunset

In one of the city center’s street there is a little restaurant called Porto di Ripetta. It is located in Via Ripetta which is a parallel street of Via del Corso. This street is not as busy as the more famous Via del Corso or even via del Babuino, and in fact it has fewer shops.

The restaurant has a real nice ambience to it and is particularly great for a dating evening, be it the first or fiftieth.

The restaurant is a little pricey but the food is delicious. One of my favorite dishes is an entrée: spaghetti with mussels and vegetables, definitely a must try. Or they have another great dish that is risotto with shrimp and apples (the apple gives it a a very interesting taste, perfect with the rice!) This plate is a little more expensive, about € 15.00, and since the portion is not too small I usually share the plate with someone.

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Porto di Ripetta | Restaurants (Italian) | Plate of spaghetti € 13.00
Via di Ripetta 250 | City center | +39063612376
Mon 20:00 – 23:00, Tue – Sat 12:00 – 23:00

Starting from the name of the place, written without stress mark on the letter “e”, this bar wants to show to the people that it’s different from the other bars around Campo de’ Fiori.

Opened from early morning, Primo Cafe receives people at every time of the day and night for breakfast, lunch, “aperitivo” or drink.

The environment is very fashionable and full of minimalist details, like the sinuous bar or the lamp-bottle carrier made with optical fiber. Also the colors, the ultra-technological illumination, the mirrors and futuristic materials help to create a fashion atmosphere.

If you want to enjoy watching the people who walk to Campo de’ Fiori, you can have your drink or food in one of the outdoor tables (heated during the winter).

One of the best moments of the day to visit Primo Cafe is during “aperitivo time”, from around 18:00 to 20:00. On the inside table you can take your food and decide to accompany it with wine, cocktail or champagne while black or chill out music are played….

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Primo Cafe | Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks | Sandwich € 7.00
Via de’ Baullari 147 | City center | +390664760179
08:00 – 02:00 daily

Ilaria Venturini Fendi, from the Fendi family, and her creativity are behind this project. Run by Carmina Campus, it is aimed to make bags, accessories, furniture and design objects by using rejected materials or re-use existing ones.

They are not reconverted through industrial processes, which would imply the use of chemical agents. Every type  of material is considered (…) and worked by expert italian hands. Its original use is forgotten and brand new, beautiful objects come to life.

Carmina Campus and RE(f)USE are an excellente example of sustainable, yet incredibly chic shopping. Every object is designed and realized by italian artisans, and is an absolute jewel. May you be thinking of taking some design pieces back home, do not miss a stop at the shop!

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RE(f)USE | Art & culture, Shopping
Via Fontanella Borghese, 40 | City center | +390668136975
11.00-19.00

BRAND NEW MEETING POINT!

All tours will now depart from the McDonald’s Restaurant (right hand side from Spanish Steps). Search for the RomeFreeTour footsteps signs there!

Share the most intriguing secrets of Rome, join one of the walking tour of Rome historical center in English. There is no fee, guides (all of them licenced) work on tips. So, feel free to express your appreciation for the tour by tipping them according to your own budget and satisfaction. Meeting point has now move (thanks to a collaboration with McDonald’s restaurants) right in front of the Spanish Steps one (M station: Piazza di Spagna. Looking at the steps, proceed on the right hand side).

Tour depart every day, at different time: check out the website for additional info. On average, they last 2-3 hrs. No reservation needed, all you have to do is just …show up!

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Rome FREE Tour | Art & culture | Free
Piazza di Spagna | City center | +393926252095
17:30 daily

A café cocktail bar and pastry chocolate tea room where you can satisfy your cravings if you have a sweet tooth. Jelly fruit candies, chocolate balls and delicious buns and cakes. You can also have lunch here. And you will be sitting in one of Rome’s most beautiful squares.

Do not forget that whether you are sitting at a café or walking down a street in Rome you must always look up not to miss the beautiful roof terraces. From piazza del Popolo, if you pull your head back and stretch your neck you will be able to see the Pincio, Villa Borghese’s famous terrace from where you can get one of the breathtaking top views of Rome.

It is worth a walk up. Once you are up there, you can rent a bicycle and speed down hill with the wind in your hair. I like being a tourist in my same hometown, sitting in one of the most ancient tea rooms of the city, it exists since 1922.

Rosati’s manager allowed me to take a picture of the café’s exclusive confetti (famous Italian almond-hearted white sugar sweets), although the owner of the place does not fancy publicity. In fact, none of the Press was ever welcomed here, neither National Rai Tv nor the other broadcast networks. This is a scoop of the news I made for Spotted by Locals.

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Rosati | Bars, Coffee & tea | Cappuccino & cornetto € 8.50
piazza del Popolo 4/5 | City center | +39063225859
07:30 – 12:00 daily

The Roscioli’s are a real institution in town. Since three generations they have been backing one of the best “pizza” in town. Roman pizza: plain, thin, and slightly salted, it is the real traditional snack for any Roman.

The “Forno” has been there for ages. Lately, it has been “expanded” to include a deli shop and a wine risto-bar. Anything is absolutely excellent: from wines to cheese, from cold cuts to the creative finger food made out those ingredients.

Fresh bread, tasteful specialties and delicious wines are served every day in accordance with the best Roman traditions.

Service is usually quick (so it can represent a good option for a fast lunch) but may be, sometimes, too quick. Don’t take it personally, Romans may be like that, just let them know.

Should you wish to have dinner there, you’d better make a reservation a little in advance, as the place is pretty small and very popular. And if you are considering bringing home a few presents, this is the perfect place to buy some bottles or a selection of local cheeses.

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Roscioli | Bars, Shopping, Snacks, Restaurants (Lunch) | Wine & Snack € 18.00
Via dei Giubbonari | City center | +390668307895
Mon – Sat 12:00 – 15:00 & 20:15 – 00:00

Almost every Italian will admit that going to the post office in Italy is a veritable PITA. Anyone who does not have masochistic tendencies will try to avoid this ordeal if possible. After all, bills can now be paid online and stamps can be purchased at tobacco stores. Plus, who still writes letters and postcards anyway?!

Having said all this, I must admit that the post office in Piazza San Silvestro is one hell of a post office. Entering it is like stepping back in history. Located on the ground floor of a 14th century building, it features sublime Renaissance frescoes and pieces of frieze on its walls. What other post office in the world would be decorated with such ancient works of art? Of course, there are also ATMs and other technological machinery, but all this is very well integrated in the setting.

Indeed, I think that Poste Italiane (Italian Postal Services) -as much as it has an awful reputation- has done an excellent job at renovating and utilizing this historical setting for its purposes. The layout of the post office is quite user-friendly and all booths and stands are clearly labeled, using the yellow color code that now characterizes the Poste Italiane brand.

So, while I would normally tell you to avoid any post office “come la peste” (like the plague), this will be the exception that proves the rule. Go in, have a look, buy some stamps or withdraw some money. All this while being immersed in Renaissance splendor.

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S. Silvestro Post Office | Art & culture, Shopping
Piazza San Silvestro 19 | City center | +390669737213
Mon – Sat 08:00 -19:00

A brand new interior awaits you!

“Salotto” means lounge in Italian, and this handsome ‘book bar’ on Piazza di Pietra, opposite the stunning Temple of Hadrian, has become the living room for Rome’s beautiful people.

This is the kind of designer hotspot you expect to find profiled in Wallpaper, Dazed & Confused or Traveler magazines – which it has been, of course! Chairs are all ’50s; music – lounge, trip-hop, nu-jazz – is always ok and the night-time crowd – as well as the patrons (co-proprietor is a reputed Scandinavian model but her husband is worth the visit, too ;’) are astonishingly beautiful.

The owners “envisioned re-creating the spirit of a drawing room in a Manhattan penthouse”, and the result feels like a groovy living space when you feel so comfy you’ll just spend the whole evening in, forgetting about the club you had thought about heading to before…

Art, fashion and design books, a selection of graphic novels and cartoons from all over the globe are at guests’ (that’s what you are there, not clients) disposal, arranged along the walls, and matched by cow skin rugs and luxe Murano chandelier. There is also an iPod loaded with Damiano’s (co-owner) favorite music (Roni Size and lots of house) attached to wall-mounted headphones for your listening pleasure.

Try the house cocktail Salotto 42: a blend of grapes, lime and sake over ice!

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Salotto42 | Art & culture, Bars | Drinks from € 8.00
Piazza di Pietra 42 | City center | +39066785804
Tue – Sat 10:00 – 02:00, Sun 10:00 – 00:00

For an easy going night out or a tasty lunch, not far from the US embassy and the Hotel Excelsior, a side street of the Dolce vita’s via Veneto. Filet mignon is what I usually pick. The pizza is very good too.

There is a variety of good wines-go for the white ones from the Campania region, they are my favourite. Outdoors and indoors. You can cross the street and have an after dinner drink at Harry’s bar-Although I feel post modern and progressive, I get nostalgic at times and I like going to places which were trendy in the 80s, but still remain an evergreen, a classic, a good gathering place to meet friends and co-workers. San Marco is trendy enough to join both styles, old and new, classic and modern, elegant and easy-going. And you don’t need to wear fancy clothes or a tie, just like in any restaurant in Rome.

You can also go there just for a drink, before or after meal times. For the evening cocktail, you’ll be served buffet food included in the price for the drink. A good thing here for the ladies are the restrooms. Toilets here match the restaurant’s design furniture and façade.

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San Marco | Bars, Restaurants (Italian) | Pizza € 15.00
Via Sardegna 38D | City center | +390642824893
13:00- 15:00 – 20:00 – 23:30 daily

Scholars Lounge is an Irish Pub in the midst of Rome’s Center near an amazing view of Piazza Venezia. The pub is actually medium size even though it will seem extremely small because it is always packed especially if there is a rugby game going on.

When I have out of town visitors, I often bring them here for a good time because they have good food, my favorite being their black olive bruschetta and the artichoke ones, good drinks such as Spritz or Guiness (if you like strong beers). Also they have several big screen TV’s to watch games on (mainly rugby) and music too. I also like the fact that they play on the pubs’ name and inside you can see a big picture of famous scholars like James Joyce etc.

And do not worry if you do not speak Italian since all the waiters and bartenders will speak English to you!

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Scholar’s Lounge | Bars, Music | 2 bruschetta € 6.00
Via Del Plebiscito 10b | City center | +390669202208
11:00 – 03:30 daily

Sciuscià is the Italian dialectal word for “shoeshiner”. Once a depreciated role in much of Western countries, as it recalls of bad times when children tried to earn an (important) wage for their family in many countries throughout the world (it used to be very common right after war times and during economical downturns), it was celebrated in a famous neo-realistic movie by Vittorio De Sica, a masterpiece of its times. Nowadays, it has become a much more interesting job, whose clients are often selected among the wealthier and most demanding.

And the job itself has become much more interesting…Have a look at Sciuscià Chic, in central Rome, and you’ll find it out! Rosalinda Dallago, ex model and incredibly charming, has taken this job to a completely new level. Politicians from the next door Parliament buildings, important arabic business men, world famous actors and VIPs from all over the world, when in Rome, hand their shoes to Rosalinda, who takes very good care of them and make them look as they were brand new.

If you want to experience something really unusual, do not miss a visit to her tiny, old fashion shop next to Montecitorio (Parliament building): Rosalinda will take care of your shoes, too! Whether they are old Birkenstocks or sneakers, or your lovely designer purchase, she will take the best out of any pair, and will entertain you with her incredible stories.

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Sciuscià Chic | Art & culture, Shopping | From € 15.00
Via in Lucina, 16 | City center | +390668892302
Mon – Sat 11:00 – 19:00 (Closed some Sat. Check with the shop for holidays)

Drink from a shoe. Have you ever strolled on high heels after having a drink? Try one here. The owners offer an aperitif from 18:00 – 20:00. If you are a shoe nut this is the place to visit. You name it they sell it.

Elegantly extravagant, luxurious, red carpet shoes and sandals, with fur, beeds, feathers, leather straps, reptile, diamonds, stones, shiny accessories, maculate boots, velvet, silk, high heels, low heels, shapes, materials, colors for everyone. Buy a pair of shoes here. Then walk down the cobble stone streets of Rome. Watch your heels! You might not, but they could be happily tipsy.

A shoe is worth anything and it is never a folly. As I say, shopping is an investment. This place is a bank of ballet flats, open-toes, sabots, sling-backs, spike heels, square-toed shoes, wedge heels, Mary Janes, pumps, platforms, mules, buskin, stacked or stiletto heels and many more. You must add a piece to your collection. And if you haven’t started one yet, start from here.

Connoisseurs will recognize masterpieces by Courtney Crawford, Sigerson Morrison, Rupert Sanderson, Giorgina Godman, René Gutenberg, just to name a few. Time will add more value to these exceptional artworks. These are not shoes just to walk in, but shoes that talk, outstanding shoes that have personality, charisma. Impress the people who “look down” on you!

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Smalto, Shoes & Wine | Shopping
Via Urbana 12/a | City center | +39064882049
Mon – Sat 10:00 – 20:00

A fountain pen that knows how to love, a ball point pen that knows how to make business, pens nothing but pens to write and draw. I have a collection of pens and here is where I got some of my favorite ones. From silver to titanium, from celluloid to wood, you can find pens made for every occasion, for every kind of words you want to write out with different colored inks. From €50 to €2000, you can spend as much as you want to fill a sheet of paper with words that have a meaning.

If you are a business man or a sophisticated lady or just a fan of pens like me, you cannot go away from Rome without buying a pen here. Maybe you would go for one of the Limited editions by Aurora, Caran d’ache, Cartier, Montblanc and other well-known brands, including Omas, Parker and Waterman.

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Stilo Fetti | Shopping | Sophisticated fountain pen € 50.00
via degli Orfani 82 | City center | +39066789662
Mon 15:30 – 19:30, Tue – Sat 09:00 – 13:00 & 15:30 – 19:30

N.B. 2009 Spring-summer collection is absolutely HOT!

In recent years, Rome’s Via del Babuino has become the coolest place to shop in the Eternal City. However it happened, this is now the place you want to be if you’re in the mood for a bit of upscale shopping.

And the hippest store on the street is indubitably this one! Conceived as a home, it will seduce you with emerging designer fashion (while you’ll still find the major fashion labels, the store specializes in harder-to-come by designers), fragrances, flowers, interior décor, home design, art and anything that may come up to your mind, and to theirs, too! It is definitely a must for anyone shopping about contemporary Rome.

The store also features a hair salon by Roberto D’Antonio. The bar serves gourmet lunches and to-go bags for local (hip!) office workers of the area. Music lovers will find an in-house mix-ologist and a good selection of lounge, house, trip-hop and nu-jazz music.

Staff is helpful, professional and very caring. Can you sense it’s among my favorite spots in town?

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TAD | Shopping
Via del Babuino 155/a | City center | +390632695131
Mon 12:00 – 19:30, Tue – Fri 10:30 – 19:30, Sat 10:30 – 20:00, Sun 12:00 – 20:00

If you happen to hit the area between the Pantheon and Trevi Fountain (maybe for an aperitivo at Salotto 42? (check the Salotto 42 article) this location is a real must! Walk from Trevi to the Pantheon and you’ll be taken into a fascinating trip to Ancient Rome.

Not only is it set (the right word: innumerable movies have been shot here!) on the amazing scenario of Piazza di Pietra, one of the loveliest in town, the Temple of Hadrian is a real jewel in itself.

The magnificent, great temple is dedicated to Hadrian, the emperor who took the Roman Empire to its maximum extension. Built in 145 AD, the temple was in the center of a colonnaded piazza.

Once home of the Land Custom, in 1879 the ruins were incorporated into the building that houses the Stock Exchange first and, the Chamber of Commerce, a brilliant example of historical revitalization.

For additional info and event list, please visit www.rm.camcom.it

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Tempio di Adriano | Art & culture | Free
Piazza di Pietra | City center | +39066789345
Only for events, etc. Please check the website.

Upter is the “People’s University of Rome”: Rome’s center for adult education. It is a great place for anyone who wants to learn something new and make new beginnings. Have you always wanted to learn still-life drawing? Use water colors like Roesler-Franz? Learn a new language? Get back in shape with Pilates or belly-dancing? Write your first novel? Upter is the place for you!

This organization offers thousands of classes -from the most obvious to the most exotic or incomprehensible (such as napkin folding)- at inexpensive prices, to anybody (no diplomas asked). Indeed, your Italian for foreigners course will cost you only € 8.40 per lesson and your Roman archaeology course only € 6.00 per lesson. Classes are small and teachers are very competent.

Upter offers classes that go for the entire academic year, semester-long classes, summer courses lasting only about a month and even one-shot deals like their cooking classes. The main center is Palazzo Englefield in downtown but there branches in the different neighborhoods.

The guide to the summer courses 2009 has just been published.

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Upter | Art & culture, Relaxing
Via Quattro Novembre 157 | City center | +39066920431
Registration office: Mon – Fri 09:00 – 19:30, Sat 09:00 – 13:00

One of Rome’s best kept secrets. A mix of period and recycled objects that inject vitality and energy to a 24hrs (almost) place: juicy breakfast, yummy lunch, gourmet dinner (reasonably priced!) and wine/drinks/deli all day around.

Located in one of the hippest area in town, the fashionable Rione Monti (together with the Pigneto area, the neighbourhoods that most recall an idea of a “Village”), it’s simply perfect for a quick break or for a longer chat with friends or a beloved one. Surrounded by art galleries, vintage shops and artists atelier, it also good for a stop during an intensive shopping session.

Service is discrete and relaxed, yet attentive and professional and food is absolutely respectful of the local tradition. Owners and chef try to keep it as organic as possible; all products are supplied from local farmers, and so is the wine list, that features lables selected among the many quality ones offered by the greater Rome area.

Lovely: all the furniture is on sale! Should you like the chair you’re sitting on, or that vintage side table…

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Urbana47 | Bars, Shopping, Snacks, Restaurants (Organic) | Meal from € 25.00
Via Urbana, 47 | City center | +390647884006
11:00 – 02:00 daily

This is one of the trendiest street for shopping, I recommend just window shopping unless you can afford it!

Definitely pass through Via Condotti to go towards the Spanish steps, all the designer shops are located here from Trussardi to Prada to Armani, Bulgari, Ferragamo and Dolce & Gabbana and Jimmy Choo just to name a few. I sometimes go inside the shops and pretend that I can afford the items and pretty much day dream of owning some of the products…a woman can dream after all!

I just adore window shopping and admire the artistic way these shops display their products, and hope that one day I can go inside and purchase their items!

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Via Condotti | Shopping
Via dei Condotti | City center
Mon 16:00 – 20:00, Tue – Sat 10:00 – 20:00

This is a great big park situated in the middle of the center of Rome, with easy access from the Spanish Steps or Piazzale Flaminio. It is a wonderful place for a relaxing picnic weather permitting or to go biking (you can rent bikes near Porta Pinciana) or you can rent little boats to go around the little lake. Villa Borghese is the third largest park in Rome.

I feel like I need a break and need to go relax, I get a few friends and organize a simple picnic at the park, and then when I am ready to go take a short nap on a bench some of my more “sporty” friends rent some bikes and go around the park.

On a hot summer day, you can go a little bit further to Il Pincio hill, where there is usually a nice breeze and you can admire the city view as well.

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Villa Borghese | Relaxing | Borghese Gallery € 8.25
Villa Borghese | City center
Bike rentals: 10:00 – 19:00 | Boat rental: 09:30 – 18:00

It has been strongly criticized and called different names: “Wedding cake” rather than “typewriter”, but it is the Italian national monument in Rome. Dominating piazza Venezia, the gigantic structure, also called Vittoriano, stands in honor of the first king of Italy, Vittorio Emmanuele II.

Located in the heart of the city center, steps from the Colosseum, it is my favorite modern monument, built in the early 20th century to give a sense of cultural identity to the newly unified Italian nation.

And, it is also my favorite venue that hosts the most important cultural events in the Capital. There are several going on during the year. From medieval to modern contemporary exhibits, artworks coming from all over the world: museums, churches and private collections, or photo shows and other artistic expressions on display in the building’s art gallery.

On Sundays, access to the main street next to the building is only pedestrian, from 08:00 – 19:00, all year round. It could turn out in a romantic walk along the Trajan markets and the Roman Forum.

The view from the Vittoriano is breathtaking, as you can see from my picture. You can walk up the white marble steps and then take the elevator to the very top. Cost of the lift: €7.00.

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Vittoriano | Art & culture | Entrance adults € 10.00
via Fori Imperiali | City center | +39066780664
Mon – Thu 09:30 – 19:30, Fri & Sat 09:30 – 23:30, Sun 09:30 – 20:30

No matter if you got to Rome by yourself, with friends or with your other half…it’s always time for adding that extra vibe to your stay. ..or just to explore the “other” you…

Forget about those pinky, tacky sexy shops. ZouZou is charming, ironic, friendly, chic and sleek far beyond one’s expectations. Created by a bunch of intelligent and smart ladies, it is  “from women, for women”, meant to help them (and their partners) to explore senxuality from different points of view.

Whether you’re searching for a sex toy,  books, lingerie or just a special gift for your lover (chocolate, massage oils, candles, etc.), at ZouZou you will find courtesy, irony and a welcoming smile.

More than a shop,  I’d rather evaluate it as a philosophy. Burlesque dancing nights and courses are held every now and then, and so are special events such as readings, dj set, erotic writing classes. Lush, glamorous and so, so feminine… don’t forget to take a look at the dressing room by Rafael Vanegas, who decorated with its unique style.

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Zou Zou | Shopping | Free
Vicolo della Cancelleria 9 | City center | +39066892176
Mon – Sat 11:00 – 20:00