Södermalm Stockholm – All our local tips

This shop is a delight for the eye. Just popping in makes me happy, all those colours and creative crafts; and the best part is that it’s all fair trade! This is the best place for shopping presents!

The first shop opened already in 1967 but was taken over by six textile designers from Konstfack in 2003. They work with 30 different countries, get new products regularly and some by season; right now there’re lots colourful pillows and things for easter.

Check out the really cool recycled stuff like the frames, water-jugs and furniture.

The idea behind Afroart is to create new jobs for local craftsmen from developing countries (lots of cooperation with Bangladesh for example) and to adapt traditional crafts to the western market.

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Afroart | Shopping | Woollen Mittens SEK 235.00
Hornsgatan 58 | Södermalm | +4686425095
Mon – Fri 10:30 – 18:30, Sat 11:00 – 16:00, Sun 12:00 – 16:00

If you are not Swedish, Russian, Norwegian or Finnish, chances are that you have no idea what bandy is about. It’s a sport just like hockey but without the violence and with the same number of players and rules as field hockey. Sounds fun? Yes, it is, but there is one catch: it is played outdoors during the winter.

So, how is it possible that Zinkensdamm is regularly full typically on Friday evenings (or Sunday afternoons)? Simply because the game is not everything! In fact most of the time the fans don’t (and can’t) follow the tiny orange ball. The reason lies in the fact that bandy is more of a social event. Fans are allowed to bring alcohol inside the stadium where everyone is hanging out with their friends or just talking with strangers, laughing and singing.

And when buying the ticket keep it in a safe place, because during the break everyone leaves the stadium into the nearest bar for drinking a beer, more singing and warming up for the second half!

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Bandy at Zinkensdamm | Art & culture, Relaxing | Ticket SEK 120.00
Ringvägen 16 | Södermalm
Fri 19:00 or Sun 13:15

What the interior decorators were on when they started designing Bauer is probably something we don’t want to know.

“Should we make it look like a children’s room with big colourful cartoons? Or like a fancy living-room with a lot of white and stucco in the ceiling? Or why not a shed with photos from someone’s holiday? I know, let’s combine all these three ideas! Yeah, great idea!” And therefore, Bauer is a big white room with stucco, colourful cartoons and a wooden panel. In some strange way it actually works.

Bauer is one of the few places that has a big lounge area where you can sit down without having to order food. It’s spacious with a lot of seats to hang out at for a couple of hours.

If you want something to eat with your drink they have a bar menu with some tapas and a few bigger dishes. The tapas are quite small, they are more about taste than being full, according to the waiter. So if you’re hungry make sure you order at least two to three because they do taste really good. Or go for one of the main dishes on the bar menu.

The prices are more on a Stureplan-level than Södermalm-level. Which means that it is quite expensive for being in this part of the city. But the setting is good, the food is good and the people friendly so it is definitely worth a visit.

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Bauer | Bars, Restaurants (Spanish) | Glass of wine SEK 82.00
Götgatan 15 | Södermalm | +4686400820
Mon – Fri 16:00 – 01:00, Sat 13:00 – 01:00, Sun 18:00 – 00:00

I have to be honest. The only reason I went inside Berlin STHLM the first time was because I was going with a few friends to my favourite bar Snotty (see the Snotty article) and it was just too packed. Berlin is just on the other side of the street and we thought “hey, why not try it out?” That turned out to be a lucky move.

Berlin STHLM is tiny (just like Snotty). It works both as a bar and as a restaurant even if there are just a handful of tables where you can sit down. On the menu are a few full dishes but most people just get one or a couple of very cool tapas with their beer. On the menu they are called “gaffelbitar”, meaning fork bites but they are a tad bigger than that and they can definitely fill you up if you order a few. There is also a regular menu with items from 105-145 SEK, like dijon burger, gratinated green muscles or Swedish “lapskojs” (mashed potatoes with some salty meat in it, here it comes with reindeer) served with fried egg and beetroot. They also have some really good beers, wines and cocktails.

One of the owners has worked in Berlin and wanted to create the same kind of mish-mash of people of different style and age hanging out together. He succeeded!

You can not reserve a table and there is no phone number to the restaurant so just drop by.

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Berlin STHLM | Bars, Restaurants (Unique tapas) | Gaffelbit (tapas) SEK 35.00
Skånegatan 71 | Södermalm
17:00 – 01:00 daily

What did vintage lovers do before Beyond Retro? Of course there have been several second hand shops in Stockholm before, but nothing quite measures up to this London original that now keeps shop on Åsögatan.

From the outside you only see a garage type door and a rack of less interesting clothes on sale. That makes it the more exciting to walk down the ramp and look at the world opening up before you.

There is no point in mentioning that they have skirts and shoes and jackets – all second hand shops do. What makes Beyond Retro special is that they always manage to get such cool stuff. It’s almost impossible to come here and not fall in love with a retro dress or a cute blouse.

And on top of the every day wear, they carry items for those special occasions – like a ball or a masquerade. It’s one of those places where you want to try on the craziest stuff with your friends, show it off and laugh yourself silly like the main characters in so many corny movies do.

Since the shop also exists in London, the web site is in Swedish and English. Big plus!

There is a second Stockholm store, even bigger than the first one with 500 square meters, on Drottninggatan 77 between metro stops T-Centralen and Odenplan. And in the middle of April Beyond Retro has announced they are opening a third one close to metro Zinkensdam on Brännkyrkagatan 8.

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Beyond Retro | Shopping | Vintage 80’s dress SEK 199.00
Åsögatan 144 | Södermalm | +4686413642
Mon – Sat 10:00 – 18:00, Sun 11:00 – 17:00

This is a lovely café. They make delicious sandwiches and use organic ingredients, try my favourite “Shiva” with lots of garlic. The environment is warm and homely with a kitschy touch. The first room is green, the next one blue and the one further back is red. When it’s nice weather you should fetch a table outside, really nice and relaxing.

My favourite room is the red one where you find the nicest photo (at first glance I though it was a painting). It’s of a friendly dog and it’s framed with a really kitschy, gold frame. There’s something about that friendly dog. Excellent shit!

The blue room have many mirrors with golden frames, stars on the walls and a nice painting of Virgin Mary. The green room is the largest one and if you can squeeze in by the window (this spot is pretty small) you should, it’s a delightful little spot with a nice view over the street. The toilet is really nice as well; it’s pink and has a Hindu theme.

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Blå Lotus | Coffee & tea, Snacks | Sandwich SEK 50.00
Katarina Bangata 21 | Södermalm | +4686445043
Mon – Fri 10:00 – 19:00, Sat – Sun 11:00 – 19:00

This summer I passed Café Cinema every morning on my way to work as I lived on Södermannagatan. Ironically, I didn’t go here until I moved a few blocks away – sometimes good places are simply too close to home for one to go there.

Swedish film director Mani Maserrat Agah owns the place and the cinematic theme runs through every part of this lovely little café: the movie theatre chairs, the DVD library and photos from film classics covering the walls.

Café Cinema has a relaxed, unpretentious and genuinely nice atmosphere about it. It is a perfect place to go if you want to work or have a chat with a close friend.
The venue is tiny and only fits about twenty people.

Most of Café Cinema’s customers are locals who live in the neighborhood. The menu is relatively small but well composed, with a selection of cold sandwiches and paninis along with healthy salads and soups, all named after movie stars.

Café Cinema also serves cream tea and an excellent take away breakfast for only 35 kr: perfect in the summer when you want to have your coffee outdoors.

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Cafe Cinema | Coffee & tea
Södermannagatan 39 | Södermalm
Mon – Fri 08:00 – 18:00, Sat 10:00 – 17:00, Sun 11:00 – 17:00

The spot between vegetarian restaurant Chutney and Indian style café Blå Lotus has housed many different enterprises. But I hope that Café Oye is here to stay. The couple behind it is Swedish-Chilean and they have definitley put their own touch to the place – the latino touch!

On the surface it looks like a regular cosy café but if you look closer you can find a bit of South America. The catholic style photos on the walls. The sandwiches with avocado and mayo, something very typical according to the owner. But most of all you can find it in the glass counter where empanadas and special sweets “manjar” are on display.

The classical empanada comes with spicy mince meat, but vegetarians and vegans are well taken care of with soya meat, almost always a vegan soup and soya milk in the coffee. The coffee is actually another thing worth mentioning – they do it well here, so if you want to enjoy a quick espresso standing by one of the bar style tables you’ve come to the right place. And it’s ecological!

I’m not a standing up type of coffee drinker so I prefer the corner to the far right with more comfy chairs. I can spend hours here just chatting with friends or getting some work done on my laptop with the free wifi.

Since there is still no big sign with the name outside, be sure you don’t miss this place.

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Café Oye | Coffee & tea | Combo SEK 65.00
Katarina Bangata 21 | Södermalm | +4686433550
Tue – Fri 09:00 – 19:00, Sat – Sun 10:00 -17:00

Stockholm is packed with cafés that mostly have a modern design or just a cozy one. Rival tries to fill this gap by being a sophisticated and smart but yet homey place to hang out. Its Parisian-like decoration with mirrors and photos of famous and not-so-famous Swedes as well as its big windows turned to the trees of Mariatorget make this spot a great place for meeting a friend, work, study or just reading the daily newspaper.

Café Rival has his own bakery and during lunch time serves great crossover food ranging from soups and pastas to quinoa salads. While it is typically full during lunch time it is possible to find a table without any waiting, most of the time. It is also very popular among locals for an afternoon coffee as it has delicious pastry.

Besides the main local just at the entrance, there is also a smaller one a level above and in case you get to pass by here on a sunny day, just take a sit on the tables outside overlooking the calm Mariatorget park.

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Café Rival | Coffee & tea | Quinoa salad SEK 80.00
Mariatorget 3 | Södermalm | +4654578900
Mon – Fri 08:00 – 20:00, Sat 09:00 – 19:00, Sun 09:00 – 19:00

In the heart of Södermalm is this classic bohemian restaurant with no meat on the menu. During lunch hour you get veggie stews, bami goreng and lasagna for 75 kr. In the evenings there is an à la carte menu with more well prepared dishes of filling quorn filé with mashed potatoes, sauteed tofu with roasted sweet potatoes, halloumi cheese with grilled vegetables and much more.

It is a very simple place and there is no table service – day and evening you order at the counter. The furniture has been the same for many, many years but then again Chutney is in no way trying to be a fancy place. The place is very comfortable with the laid back atmosphere and customers. It’s popular with students – you see more than one table in the afternoon filled with thick books and uni students discussing some project or other.

You can come in here for just a caffe latte as well and even if there are no sandwiches or salads like in the cafés there are plenty of freshly made pies and cakes. Just take a look in the glass front counter and take your pick.

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Chutney | Coffee & tea, Restaurants (Vegetarian) | Quornfilé SEK 130.00
Katarina Bangata 19 | Södermalm | +4686403010
Mon – Fri 11:00 – 22:00, Sat – Sun 12:00 – 22:00

This little shop on Skånegatan sells everything you don’t need. And it’s fabulous. It’s colourful, kitchy and plastic.

This is the place you go to if you want to buy a Jesus-candle, a Ganesh-picture, a plastic mat or a small table with flowers. It’s perfect if your taste is more more is more than less is more. And the place to buy gifts to someone who has everything already.

So if you are on a mission to find a gift for someone and don’t really know what you are looking for, you’re mostly sure to find something here. Or something you yourself don’t need, but want. Like I always do when I come here. My mission is to buy a gift for someone, but end up with something for myself instead.

Even if you’re not buying anything it’s worth a visit. It’s like a small kitch-museum that most surely will put you in a good mood. I’m pretty sure not many people can resist the colour feast in this shop.

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Coctail | Shopping
Skånegatan 71 | Södermalm | +4686420740
Mon – Fri 11:00 – 18:00, Sat 11:00 – 16:00, Sun 12:00 – 16:00

The area Hornstull on Södermalm went from bearing the not so flattering nick name “Kniv-Söder” (Knife Söder) to becoming one of the most hip and coming parts of town. And it all happened in a few years around 2002-2004.

Copacabana rode the new wave and was just what Hornstull needed at the time – a really cosy and relaxed café with a simple but great menu. The location is spot on, facing the water. And recently the movie theatre nextdoor opened up again after long renovations. “Copa” seized the moment and expanded with a door between the two places and put more tables in the lobby of the Rio cinema.

They serve the regular café drinks and food consisting of all sorts of coffees including soya versions for vegans and lactose intolerants, juices and smoothies, an all day breakfast, soup of the week and a few sandwiches including things like Copacabana luxury toast with mango- and chili marinated crayfish, mayo, avocado and salad for 75 kr.

Copacabana writes on their website that they are the “nicest” café in town and they have succeeded. The staff is great, it’s gay friendly and they also arrange events, mostly book readings but also talks on feminism, politics and queer culture. Unfortunately it’s mostly in Swedish.

You can also call to check out what is going on at Rio, as they host small film festivals where documentaries, shorts and much more are screened. And all the information is not always on the web site.

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Copacabana | Art & culture, Coffee & tea, Snacks | Caffe latte SEK 29.00
Hornstulls Strand 3 | Södermalm | +4686692939
Mon – Thu 09:00 – 20:00, Fri 09:00 – 19:00, Sat – Sun 10:00 – 19:00

This is one of my favourite places to dance for sure! They have many different clubs and they’re usually for free if you come before 22:00. They also have lots of concerts, check their homepage for dates!

One night that was particularly wonderful was during Debaser Medis “Berlin night” where one of my favourite artists Apparat performed. It was an excellent night, packed with different electronic music which made us dance for at least 6 hours.

The first floor has two rooms. The larger room gives me a feeling of prom-night or something. The ceiling is really high, the stage is large and the floor spacious. There’s lots of room to dance, though it does get pretty packed during the night. Losing your friends in the crowd is not unusual, which is okay, you always find someone else to chat or dance with.

The smaller room is more chilled out with a bar, seats and you can order food. They also have a nice bar and a small cinema on the second floor.

Bring earplugs!

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Debaser Medis | Bars, Cinemas, Music, Snacks | Entrance SEK 100.00
Medborgarplatsen 8 | Södermalm | +4686947900
Fri – Sat 17:00 – 03:00 (concerts 19:00) | Check their website

Located just off Swedenborgsgatan, this bright and minimalistic place offers excellent coffee, pastries and sandwiches, but with an emphasis on coffee.

The place is run by barista and journalist Erik Rosendahl and Oscar Alvérus who used to run “Tvålpalatset”. At Drop coffee they know their coffee but never impose their knowledge on you. As the name indicates, they promote filter coffee but you can get Italian coffee to if you prefer. They offer three different varieties of coffee beans, which can also be purchased.

The front space is occupied by the café, which only has a few tables, all on one row, facing the marble counter. A double glass door covered with thin layers of cotton divides the café from an office space for freelance journalists and designers.

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Drop coffee | Coffee & tea | Coffee from SEK 15.00
Wollmar Yxkullsgatan 10 | Södermalm
Mon – Fri 07:00 – 18:00, Sat – Sun 10:00 – 17:00

Like to get wet on your holiday? Like to play around in wave machines and waterslides? Or you might be in desperate need of a gym session? If so, you should visit Eriksdalsbadet.

Eriksdalsbadet is the biggest swimming pool in Stockholm. They have two pools for swimming, one 25 meter and one 50 meter. They also have an adventure area with wave machines, water-slides, Jacuzzis and play areas for kids. You can also swim out to a small outside pool through a gate. The outside pool is cool to go to during the winter when it’s freezing cold in the air and the water is nice and warm.

The gym has good, modern machines, treadmills, rowing machines and much more. It can be quite crowded during weekday evenings and weekends. But they have more than one of each machine so you don’t have to wait for that long if the one you want to use is busy.

In the dressing room you have one sauna and one steam room. At least in the ladies dressing room. Can’t say for the men’s but I guess it’s the same. So you can just come here for the relaxation of the jacuzzi and saunas too. And if you feel that Stockholm isn’t providing enough sun, they have sunbeds too.

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Eriksdalsbadet | Relaxing | Swimming SEK 75.00
Hammarby Slussväg 20 | Södermalm | +46850840258
Mon – Thu 06:30 – 21:00, Fri 06:30 – 20:00, Sat 09:00 – 17:00, Sun 09:00 – 18:00

Greek food is more than tzatziki and souvlaki and if you want the best of whatever you prefer when it comes to the Greek cuisine you should go straight to Faros. Faros is a family run, small and great restaurant in the middle of Södermalm. The tables are close to each other and the atmosphere is friendly and intimate. There are two sections with a bar in the middle. But the bar is not really the kind of bar you hang out at for drinks. More a waiting area to pick up your take-away food at.

The food at Faros is excellent. Tasty, well prepared and lots. If you’re not full after dinner here, you eat too much. One of my favourite dishes is the lamb filet. So nice and tender. Just perfect. I like Greek food because it’s quite uncomplicated, but still so tasteful. And that is what this place is too. Uncomplicated and therefore very good.

At the moment they are doing some construction work on the building where the restaurant is placed. Don’t let the scaffolds scare you off though. Faros is still there. It’s actually easier to find it now since they have put up a huge Faros-sign on the corner of the building.

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Faros | Restaurants (Greek ) | Main dishes from SEK 150.00
Sofiagatan 1 | Södermalm | +4684421414
Mon – Fri 16:00 – 00:00, Sat 13:00 – 00:00, Sun 13:00 – 23:00

This is the gallery I frequent the most and there is no reason to miss it with a very central location close to Slussen and free entrance – although there is a little glass jar where you can put a few coins if you want. And they show journalistic photography something that I’m really into, being a journalist who loves to travel.

It is funded by some of the biggest Swedish newspapers and picture agencies and every year exhibitions include “Swedish picture of the year” and work from Nordens fotoskola, one of the best photography schools in Sweden.

From March 6 to April 4 photographer Dawid has three exhibitions with the theme “Cars” in three different galleries close by. Start at Kontrast and ask for directions to the others. From April 10 to May 2nd it’s time for one of the most popular yearly exhibitions “Picture of the year 2010″. Don’t miss it.

Just check the web site for what is on when you will be in Stockholm. It’s mostly in Swedish, but click on “utställningar” in the top and you can at least read what photographers will exhibit which dates, and see a photo to give you a hint what to expect.

If you manage to go on the opening day of any exhibition usually the creators are there and you can get a glass of free wine. If you read the word “Vernissage” it means that’s the date and time of the opening.

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Galleri Kontrast | Art & culture | Free
Hornsgatan 8 | Södermalm | +4686414999
Wed – Fri 12:00 – 18:00, Sat – Sun 12:00 – 16:00

This is my favourite café, newly opened and perfectly situated next to small shops and nice parks in the south of Stockholm. I introduce everyone I know to this new pearl.

The interior is very welcoming and inspiring with wallpaper tricking your eye, making you think the place is packed with shelves of books; a very creative and fun atmosphere.

The tiles covering the floor are very beautiful and contribute to the creativity as well. Dostojevskij’s red cushions and chandelier meets Middle Eastern patterns and colours! I love the imaginary bookshelves and the corner with that light green armchair that is placed there just for you, waiting patiently for your books and your thoughts.

But what I love the most is the laidback service and cosy, homely feeling. The people working here are really sweet, their sandwiches delicious and their caffe lattes a piece of art.

If you only have time for one café during your stay in Stockholm – this is your café! I’m sure you’ll love it.

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Gildas rum | Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks | Caffe latte SEK 32.00
Skånegatan 79 | Södermalm
Mon – Thu 08:00 – 23:00, Fri 08:00 – 20:00, Sat 09:00 – 20:00, Sun 09:00 – 21:00

Sweden makes the best sweets in the world. That’s my firm opinion. Sure, the Belgians have their chocolate, but we have our Swedish fish (jelly fish in different flavours and colours) that we export to the Americans. Amongst others.

At Godislagret they claim to have 200 different kinds of sweets. They have, of course, Swedish fish, salty liquorice (only liked by Swedes and Dutch, but worth trying), chocolate, lollies, fudge and so on. I have never counted if they really do have 200 different sorts, I just have to take their words for it. When you have found your favourites you pick your own bag and pay by weight.

Even if I see myself as a fairly open minded person that like to try new things ever now and then, I tend to go for the same sweets every time. But if I would like to try something new, this is the place to go to. So you don’t have to be a kid to like a good candy store.

Sometimes I take detour passed this shop just to fill up my sweets storage at home. I use the extra walk to get here as an excuse to buy more than I actually want.

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Godislagret | Shopping, Snacks | Candy (100gr) SEK 7.90
Skånegatan 47 | Södermalm | +4686409871
Mon – Sat 10:00 – 21:00, Sun 11:00 – 21:00

This is THE store for vegetarian food in Stockholm. It’s a small but packed shop with everything you’d need. Almost all products are organic and many of them fair-trade as well. Vegetables, tofu, cookies, washing powder, diapers… They even sell organic dog food.

Goodstore received ”Guldråttan” (the Golden Rat) year 2009, a price given out each year to places/people who have worked exceptionally well in the field of animal rights. Good work Goodstore!

Goodstore’s goal is to have Sweden’s widest selection of vegetarian goods. The prices could be lower, but it’s totally worth buying food here; it’s healthy, tasty and you’re supporting a good cause.

I just realized that you can buy the organic soda Bionade here, hurrah!

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Goodstore | Shopping | Tofu SEK 17.00
Skånegatan 92 | Södermalm | +4686414036
Mon – Fri 10:00 – 20:00, Sat 11:00 – 18:00, Sun 12:00 – 17:00

Placed on the ground floor in Skrapan this is a spacious and bright café. Not very cosy and quiet, but perfect for hanging out a for while and watching all the people shopping in Skrapan shopping centre.

For some reason me and my friend often end up here when we’re out for a coffee or something quick to eat. So I guess it’s time I admit I actually like the place.
There are plenty of seats so you are pretty certain that there is always room. Even during weekends when it’s very busy at most places.

The wifi is free on Götgatan stories if you’re not happy with just people spotting you can surf the internet for more interesting things to occupy your mind with. You can also pick up one the many books on the big table in the middle of the place and dream of exotic hotels or diving spots. I actually think the books are one of the reasons why I tend to come back here.

Even though I often come here for just a coffee and maybe something sweet I would probably more recommend their sandwiches and salads. The salads are big and very tasty. They also have a few hot dishes every day that taste just as good.

They also have a sister cafe now in Gallerian on Hamngatan, called Hamngatan Stories.

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Götgatan Stories | Coffee & tea | Caffe Latte SEK 35.00
Götgatan 78 | Södermalm | +4686430340
Mon – Fri 10:00 – 21:00, Sat 10:00 – 18:00, Sun 11:00 – 18:00

Every time I go to Grandpa I get a homey feeling that is a bit unusual when entering design clothing stores. This mainly arises from the cozy home-like retro decoration as well as the extremely friendly personnel which I have consistently encountered here over the years.

Grandpa is mainly a fashion store that has a very good mix of Swedish and other International brands like April 77, Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair, Kuyichi, Whyred and Won Hundred. But besides the clothes one can also find furniture, decoration (such as porcelain tigers), gadgets and movies.

There’s often a DJ playing music and on the last Thursday of each month the Södermalm’s store is opened until 9pm (SoFo Night) and wine is offered to their customers. In the Fridhemsplan’s store there is both a café as well as a bigger furniture section, including new and second-hand products.

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Grandpa | Shopping | Jeans SEK 1000.00
Södermannagatan 21 | Södermalm | +4686436080
Mon – Fri 11:30 – 18:30, Sat 11:30 – 17:00, Sun 12:00 – 16:00

Tired of mainstream books and conventional stuff? Interested in feminism, LGBT/Queer-questions and want to see things from a different perspective? Then this is the bookstore for you!

It’s pink, full of books, papers, movies, clothes, zines, all kinds of kitschy stuff and more. All their movies are in English and lots of their books as well, like their less square children’s books about rainbow families.

On the second floor they have lots of movies, comics, sex toys and second-hand books.

Hallongrottan wants to keep you updated of all queer things and activities going on. You can sign up for their newsletter and get information straight away. They also have their own TV show on the local network and the internet, they invite authors, have lectures of all sorts, show movies and plenty more.

So, sit down by the window, have a cookie (for free) and dive into a book!

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Hallongrottan | Coffee & tea, Shopping, Snacks | Book SEK 200.00
Bergsundsgatan 25 | Södermalm | +4686581320
Tue – Fri 12:00 – 19:00, Sat – Sun 12:00 – 17:00

Hammarby Backen has a couple of downhill pistes just inside the city of Stockholm. In fact the hill didn’t exist up to 1990 and is a result of the collection of Stockholm garbage.

From the living room of the apartment where I’m living now I have a great view over the slope. When the night comes and the lights turn on in Hammarby Backen it feels like I’m living in a ski resort, and I just feel like going there.

The piste is neither long or steep, but it takes no time to get there if one just wants to enjoy a couple of hours of easy riding downhill skiing. But when getting to the top of the hill and turning northwest, one has a breathtaking view over Stockholm, which is much more dramatic during the evening.

In case you don’t feel like skiing and since nowadays there are only a few days of good snow on the hill, just join the many Swedes that take the chance to either run or just walk to the top for both exercising and the magnificent view.

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Hammarbybacken | Relaxing | 4 hours SEK 200
Hammarby Allé | Södermalm
13:00 – 20:00 daily

This is a great place for dinner or just dessert, or both! The buffet is delicious and the pastries are very tasty, especially the carrot-cake. The atmosphere is very cosy and warm.

You always get two buffets for the price of one! And students eat half price every Monday.

It’s situated on a hill, with a great view over the water. It’s cosy both inside and outside. You can sit on the terrace and enjoy the view during colder seasons as well thanks to heaters. During summer they place hammocks outside, best place for relaxing

Instead of a soyalatte you should have tea, the tea is great! The lattes are unfortunately not so great.

They only use organic ingredients and the tea and coffee are fair-trade. Every weekend they set the table with new and different buffets from all over the world. A very inventive and aware restaurant you shouldn’t miss out on!

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Hermans | Coffee & tea, Restaurants (Vegetarian) | Buffet from SEK 68.00
Fjällgatan 23 | Södermalm | +4686439480
11:00 – 21:00 daily

Until recently this place was called Street and although changes have been made, the crowd is similar. Street was part of the new “Hornstull” with a weekend street market, fancy but cool restaurant and bar/club in the big garage looking local. Strand has taken over and reformed both the restaurant and the club, but sadly there is no market.

On the other hand they have worked a lot to make the club a great one. There are constantly cool things going on, like interesting bands and well known DJ:s. For the ones who have been to the club Ugglan over on the other side of Södermalm it comes as no surprise that it’s the same people who are behind Strand.

The Ugglan concept with boule courts in the basement and completely new bands playing in the tiniest of rooms is present, but since Strand is a much bigger place they can welcome bigger artists, both on stage and in the DJ-booth. For example internationally well known Peter, Bjorn And John had their release party here. More regular things is that P3, the young radio channel with all the new music, have their monthly bar here. And a thing called Cinemat, which is movie and soup is also here every month. Check the calendar (only in Swedish) for exact dates.

Strand still feels like a living room away from home with many sofas spread about and pingpong tables hidden in alcoves. You can’t help to feel relaxed.

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Hornstull Strand Etabl | Bars, Music, Restaurants (Crossover) | Entrance club SEK 60.00
Hornstulls Strand 4 | Södermalm | +4686586350
Tue 17:00 – 00:00, Wed – Fri 17:00 – 02:00, Sat 11:00 – 02:00, Sun 16:00 – 22:00

Sometimes a bar is just a bar and that’s the only reason why you like hanging out there. Imperiet is one of these bars.

Imperiet is placed on the ground and second floor in Skrapan. Skrapan used to be the building where the tax authorities had their offices. Now it’s housing a shopping center and student flats.

The first floor is a café daytime and a bar at night. Upstairs there is a restaurant and a bar. Bars with this kind of lounge area are still quite rare in this part of the town so those chairs and tables are greatly appreciated. The colour setting is in the brownish to beige scale and quite discreet. Not overly trendy, but nice and pleasant.

Like the colours, most guests are not overly trendy either, but nice and pleasant. Could sound boring, but quite the opposite. It’s a laid back and friendly atmosphere here. Most people are around 30, some older, some younger. Not too trendy, but still a bit aware of the trends of today. And a few locals celebrities. The people at Imperiet seem to fit the place. An average bar with average people. But in a positive way. I never get the feeling that I’m not trendy enough here. They welcome everybody.

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Imperiet | Bars, Coffee & tea, Restaurants (International) | Beer SEK 50.00
Götgatan 78 | Södermalm | +4686606065
Restaurant: Mon – Wed 17:00 – 23:00, Thu – Sat 17:00 – 02:00
Kafé: Mon – Thu 11:00 – 01:00, Fri – Sat 11:00 – 03:00, Sun 11:00 – 01:00

When I wrote about Shanti (see the Shanti article) a couple of months back, it was by far my favorite Indian restaurant in town. I had been in many of them, including Indian Garden. In fact I had been there several times and they always had good food. But Shanti too, plus a great location and atmosphere. So I had forgotten about Indian Garden… until a couple of weeks ago!

Martin, a friend of mine decided to gather a small group of friends for his 30 year old party on a Monday, just before people got their salaries. If you know Stockholm well enough, then you know that this is the perfect combination for having an empty restaurant. When I arrived, the place was packed. The tables where not only fully occupied, but there where people waiting for a table! I was mesmerized! Had Stockholmers changed or had the place changed?

Well, after passing through the crowd at the door and looking for my table I noticed that the place had a much better decoration. The music also helped making a rather cozy atmosphere. Then food came to remind me how much I love Indian food: perfect!  We all stayed until the spot closed down, and that’s when I noticed that the people working there are extremely friendly and kind. Well, Shanti is much closer to where I live, but Indian Garden is well worth the extra 15 minutes ride. Just need to remember to book in advance. Thanks, Martin!

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Indian Garden | Restaurants (Indian) | Chicken Tikka Masala SEK 115.00
Heleneborgsgatan 15 | Södermalm | +4686407430
Mon – Fri 11:00 – 23:00, Sat 12:00 – 23:00, Sun 13:00 – 22:00

Götgatsbacken – the hill of Götgatan between Slussen and Medborgarplatsen – is one of the busiest bar areas in Stockholm and any Friday or Saturday evening you have tons of people slipping in and out of bars, smoking on the footpath outside or just passing on there way for some more fun.

Out of all the places here Indigo is the most stylish with the coolest people. It is very tiny so you have to be here early if you want to sit, but this is not the kind of bar where I spend the whole evening. I go here for one or two drinks in between other places.The colourful and very unusual design and decoration works as an energy injection and so does the music – always new cool beats of indie, rock and electro. The only downside is that the music tend to be loud so it can be tricky to have any serious conversations for any amount of time.

And as for the cool people – yes, some “cred” celebrities can be spotted at times, last time I was there so was Pelle from the Hives and Moneybrother. If you like their type of music, this is also the place for you.

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Indigo Bar | Bars, Music | Draft beer SEK 44.00
Götgatan 19 | Södermalm | +4686435859
Mon – Fri 17:00 – 01:00, Sat 15:00 – 01:00

Stockholm is a beautiful city full of water – especially in summer! And although there are no skyscrapers from where to enjoy the views there are some great spots to go to.

The popular writer Ivar Lo-Johansson lived in an apartment on Bastugatan 21 on the mountain Mariaberget. Opposite the house is a small open park area behind a double wooden door. When Ivar Lo died 1990 the city named the park after him. The park itself is not so special. There is a playground for kids and at the entrance there is a gigantic hollow ash tree reminding of the Yggdrasil, the “World Tree” from the Norse mythology tales. But the reason to come to the park is plain and simple – the view.

If you walk Bastugatan you will get glimpses of the view here and there between buildings but nowhere is it as breathtaking as when you go through this park – it’s like the whole city of Stockholm is suddenly opening up in front of you. You see the water of lake Mälaren, the old houses and church towers of Gamla stan and the colourful water front buildings of Norrmälarstrand on Kungsholmen. And it’s all for free!

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Ivar Los Park | Relaxing | Free
Bastugatan 26 | Södermalm
Daily

When I came back from London this continental coffee bar has replaced Platanos Livs – for many years my local grocery store, and source of milk and breakfast cereal.

Kaffebar is really what it claims to be: a bar where you drink mainly coffee, but in contrast to most other, much smaller ones you find here it is a rather large venue. During the weekends it’s crowded with local Södermalmers in their mid thirties and upwards, grabbing a quick coffee on their feet, or sitting on one of the stools by the large windows facing St Paulsgatan.

True to its Italian inspiration, Kaffebar serves toasts, but with Swedish filling such as Västerbotten cheese or Falukorv. They also have mini croissants and some Italian patisseries. Not the place to go for a big lunch, but perfect for people watching or for grabbing a quick coffee. Although I am a bit nostalgic about the passing of time and wonder what happended to Platanos, I cannot deny that Kaffebar is quite a nice place.

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Kaffebar | Coffee & tea, Snacks
St Paulsgatan 17 | Södermalm
Mon – Fri 08:00 – 18:00, Sat – Sun 10:00 – 18:00

A little bit off Hornsgatan up the stairs from Hornspucken you’ll find Khave, a tiny coffee bar with only four tables.

The coffee shop is fairly new, specialises in coffee and chocolate and caters mostly for locals. You can get sandwiches here and a good selection of French style chocolates.

The place has a casual and personal atmosphere and the owner Tony knows most of the guests. Kahve is one of the few places in Stockholm where one can buy Mast Brothers and Maxin’s chocolate.

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Kahve | Coffee & tea
Blecktornsgränd 8 | Södermalm
Mon – Fri 08:30 – 18:00, Sat – Sun 11:00 – 18:00

There are very rare occasions when I wish I were a man. Or the only time I wish that is when I visit Kocksgatan 17 Herrekipering. This is definitely one of the nicest shops in Stockholm. The interior decorators have done a great job making it very personal and welcoming.

The shop opened about a year ago and it is quite obvious that they didn’t want just another clothing shop in Stockholm. They wanted something special. And something exclusive.

The clothes at Kocksgatan 17 are all from well known, quite expensive, brands. Good quality and fashionable seem to be the key words. But it’s not over trendy, more basic clothes with a twist.

For me, as a fairly small woman, there is basically nothing I can wear from this shop. It wouldn’t fit me very well so I have to make up other excuses for coming here. Like dressing my father or I just drag my friends here to shop for their husbands or boyfriends. And while they shop, I just hang out in of the sofas and enjoy the atmosphere.

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Kocksgatan 17 | Shopping
Kocksgatan 17 | Södermalm | +46840815014
Mon – Fri 11:30 -18:30, Sat 11:30 – 17:00, Sun 12:00 – 16:00

When again the autumn chill come crashing in over our lovely city many, many Swedes get on the first plane to Thailand. For those who lack the money or the time for that sort of trip, the restaurant Koh Phangan on Skånegatan has been able to act as a substitute for several years.

As soon as you set your foot in the door it’s like entering a new world – Southeast Asia. The interior – floors, tables, the bar – is all bamboo style. There is no other light than strings of tiny blues, greens and reds. The main area is filled with tropical plants and you can hear the sound of crickets. Choose if you want to have your dinner in a hut or a tuk tuk. And if there is a rain storm in the middle of your meal – don’t worry, you won’t get wet.

The food is authentic too. All the important dishes are here, like the coconut soup with chicken, Tom Ka Gai, and the spicy and sour shrimp soup, Tom Yam Koong. Dishes are marked “no hot”, “little hot” and “very hot” and at times the spiciest has made the hot weather in Thailand fade in comparison to the fire in your mouth.

Everybody who’s lived in Stockholm has been to Koh Phangan and marvelled over it ages ago. But the food is still great and for a first time visitor it’s an experience not to miss.

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Koh Phangan | Bars, Restaurants (Thai) | Pat Thai Pak SEK 139.00
Skånegatan 57 | Södermalm | +4686425040
Mon -Tue 11:00 – 00:00, Wed – Fri 11:00 – 01:00, Sat – Sun 14:00 – 01:00

Ljunggrens is divided in to two areas. One that is attached to the restaurant. To get to this part you use the glass door. And one that is attached to the shopping mall. To get to this you use the big wooden door. This caused me some confusion my first visits here. Now I’m proud to say that I know how to use each entry.

The shopping mall is Bruno gallerian on Götgatan and the bar is in the middle. It’s a weird and funny feeling to sit in a closed shopping mall and have a few drinks in the evening. But I like sitting on the big cushions they have and look at the dark shop-windows. It feels like you have broken in to the place and are not supposed to be there. Daytime this part works as a café. Still with the big cushions.

The other section is a more regular bar next to the restaurant. It’s a nice place with a good lounge area. It’s usually very crowded during the weekends, but it’s worth elbowing yourself to the bar, the drinks are great here.

Usually the bar in the shopping area is open until 1, but on a few odd occasions they have special events that leave the place open til 3. Check the local newspaper, or their website what’s going on the Saturday you’re visiting the place.

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Ljunggrens bar | Bars | Beer SEK 56.00
Götgatan 36 | Södermalm | +4686407565
Mon – Tue 17:00 – 00:00, Wed – Sat 17:00 – 01:00

Marie Laveau is both a restaurant, a bar and a club. Even though the restaurant is highly praised by the critics, it is because of the bar and the club that I usually go there.

Some time ago, the club stopped running during the weekdays as the neighbors complained about the noise. During working days there are always people here, but nothing compared with the crowded Fridays and Saturdays.

At the bar, where excellent drinks are made, the place is full of young alternative people with the typical laid-back and hip Södermalm style. The music played also has the same alternative vibe both at the bar as well as at the club in the basement.

The club typically has younger people but a similar atmosphere . It is dark, feels like a sauna in an urban environment, but it is well worth to go!

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Marie Laveau | Bars | Entrance fee on Weekends SEK 100
Hornsgatan 66 | Södermalm | +4686688500
Mon – Tue 17:00 – 01:00, Wed – Sat 17:00 – 03:00

What I love about cooking is the experimental part. Trying out new methods, mixing common ingredients in unusual ways and most importantly finding out about new ingredients. It is with no surprise that this is a spot I love going to! Mostly because they dare, thus making this an inspirational place for my home cooking.

Matkultur is a multicultural restaurant where food and ingredients from opposite parts of the world are combined in order to create a new experience. Things that I never thought would make sense together result in simply extraordinary dishes. The menu is very short, but it is modified regularly and even with these (positive) changes I find the food to be consistently excellent. This year the menu is divided by continent and it’s exciting just to read it!

This is a small place that aims to have a slow tempo but it is always full and one must book a table for the weekend, although I’d also recommend doing the same during the week.

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Matkultur | Restaurants (Multicultural) | Main meal SEK 200.00
Erstagatan 21 | Södermalm | +4686420353
Mon – Sat 17:00 – 00:00

I love this shop. You feel a little bit like Alice in Wonderland when you walk down the narrow hall with walls covered with magazines, furniture and old dolls and end up in a room stuffed with wonderful first and second hand things from the 40s to the 70s.

Usually there’s a bit of a disorder here, I personally love the chaotic feeling to it and hope it will always remain like this with boxes just laying there, full of yet undiscovered stuff… But last time I was there the shoes stood in order and the boxes where gone. I’m sure it’ll get chaotic soon enough though!

This place has everything; shoes, jackets, bags, records, jewellery, colourful plastic kitchenware, hats, lots of nice dresses, shirts, lamps, belts etc.

Strolling around is a true pleasure.

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Modern Retro Vintage Store | Shopping | Bag SEK 200.00
Wollmar Yxkullsgata 9 | Södermalm | +4686407292
Mon – Fri 12:00 – 18:00, Sat 12:00 – 16:00

This walk gives you a nice and cosy feeling of how Stockholm used to look under the 18th and 19th century. The view over Old Town and Riddarfjärden is amazing!

I recommend you to start at Slussen and walk down Hornsgatan. Turn right at Pustegränd, walk down the stairs and then left at Bastugatan. This district is really beautiful with old houses, steep hills and cobble stoned streets. You should definitely lie down under a tree in Ivar Los Park as well.

At Bastugatan you have an info sign under the big tree which tells you more about this street/district. Continue Bastugatan and then turn right at Monteliusvägen. The path continues, and so should you, but before that; do sit down and enjoy the beautiful view, especially nice during sunrise!

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Monteliusvägen | Relaxing | Free
Starting from Slussen | Södermalm
24 hours daily

Nada is one of many small bars in this neighbourhood but it might be the one with the best party vibe. Outside there is a sign saying BAR and a beautifully vaulted window. You see straight into the main area with the bar to the left, the DJ booth in the middle and the rest of the space crushed with people.

A small passageway leads into the next room called Göteborg (Swedens second biggest city). It’s equally packed here but there are a few more seats and tables. If you are here early and lucky enough to get a table you can have nice tapas with your beers.

The music has a lot to do with the mood of the place and Nada gets really good DJ’s even though they are still only paid with beer and food. They have “Live-Sundays” with live bands which gets a nice crowd. Other types of music that get played here is indie, electro and German madness.

The food is good but you come here more for a snack with drinks than a quiet meal. On the upside of the drinks is that you can get a glass of tasty cava for SEK 55, something quite rare in Stockholm. On the downside is that the draft beer doesn’t always taste so great – stick to the bottles.

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Nada Bar | Bars, Music | Bottle beer SEK 45.00
Åsögatan 140 | Södermalm | +4686429020
17:00 – 01:00 daily

Many visitors who come to Stockholm ask the same question. Where can we find a restaurant that serves Swedish food? It’s not easy, but now you need to look no further.

Pelikan is an establishment that has been around forever – or to be more exact for 104 years. 1904 when it opened it was named Port Arthur and the clients were all men mostly there to drink the allowed amount of hard liquor at the time – two white and one brown.

You can still order the very strong Swedish snaps at Pelikan but nowadays the place is more famous for the food and beer. The main restaurant area is a big “beer hall”-style room with high ceilings and lots of noice. The food is traditional Swedish stuff, which means lots of meat, fish and potatoe dishes and not so heavy on the vegetables. The most popular Swedish meatballs comes with mashed or boiled potatoes, creamy sauce and lingonberries – and it’s delicious (see pic). Pelikan is also a typical beer place, they got a few good ones on draft and even more on bottle, including some nice Chezch and great local beers from small breweries like Nils Oscar.

Most of the people who come here are the after work crowd of all ages. A couple of pints with colleges on the way home or a bite to eat is the thing. There is also a bar next door “Kristallen”, with a slightly younger crowd. It’s a cool place too but it lacks the history of Pelikan.

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Pelikan | Bars, Restaurants (Swedish) | meatballs SEK 162.00
Blekingegatan 40 | Södermalm | +46855609090
Sun – Thu 16:00 – 00:00, Fri – Sat 13:00 – 01:00

It is no surprise that Pet Sounds Bar is such a success among the indie crowd of Södermalm. The fairytale started with the record shop Pet Sounds on Skånegatan 53, an institution for music lovers in the times when everybody still bought their sounds in the shops instead of using Internet. Pet Sounds was (and still is) the place to come and just browse for the latest indie band or the odd copy of the classics. And you could always get great tips from the staff.

So when Pet Sounds decided to open a bar they already had a given crowd – and that crowd quickly turned out to be too big for the place, on Skånegatan 90, that they had chosen. It was not many months however before they found the perfect location. Not only is it just opposite the record shop but it was here that all the indie kids of the 90’s had their beer and music fix on what was then called Hannas.

The crowd now is a mix of new enthusiasts and the 10 year older regulars of Hannas. Upstairs is a bit more grownup, here you hang in the bar or eat at one of the restaurant tables. Downstairs is all about music. There is a small bar, a tiny stage and a DJ booth where everything and anything is played – as long as it’s good! The basement is also the place for book releases, private parties and other events. The Stockholm Spotted by Locals release party was held here in December 2008!

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Pet Sounds Bar | Bars, Music | Wine SEK 68.00
Skånegatan 80 | Södermalm | +4686438225
Tue 17:00 – 00:00, Wed – Sat 17:00 – 01:00, Sun 12:00 – 00:00

Ramblas, over in the Södermalm corner of Hornstull, used to be a so called “sunkhak”. It is kind of hard to translate, maybe dive bar would be the closest but generally people went there for the cheap beer and no other reason. No effort was put into decoration, sevice or anything else. But that was then.

Now you’ll be smart and reserve a table before you come here because it is very often full. The reason is that the prices are still good and the tapas are great – filling and tasty. Among my favourites are chorizo riojano, made hot in the oven with tomato and onion and the queso frito. The beer can still be had at 30 kr and a glass of wine is 46 kr, which is not bad at all in Sweden, and worth remembering if you are on a budget but still like to eat out.

The place is dark and cosy and all sorts of people come here – from the “poor” student who were here before when the beer was even cheaper to older couples and families. And if you forget to book ahead and are left without a table there are plenty of other good budget places just around the corner, like Indian Garden (check the Indian garden article) and Därmedpasta.

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Ramblas | Bars, Restaurants (Spanish tapas) | Patatas con aioli SEK 38.00
Långholmsgatan 3 | Södermalm | +4686692536
15:00 – 01:00 daily

Having a place that only serves different kinds of hummus-dishes in Stockholm might sound a bit weird. But Reggev on Ringvägen is a wonderful place with the best hummus ever.

From a small menu their are about five different hummus creations to choose from. You can have it with beans and boiled eggs, with fried mushrooms and with minced meat. I haven’t tried them all, but I bet that they are all as good as the ones with beans and mushrooms.

With the hummus they also serve some pickled vegetables and pita bread.
If you get thirsty you should try their home-made lemonade with lemon and mynta. It is so refreshing and delicious so the drink itself is almost worth the visit to Reggev.
As good as the food is, just as nice are the people working there. When it’s not too busy they sit down for a small chat and make you feel that you are very welcome at their place.

The only downside with the place is that it takes a little while to get the food. But it’s worth the waiting and I guess we should start to appreciate slow food more. It tastes so much better than fast food.

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Reggev | Coffee & tea, Snacks | Hummus with beans & eggs SEK 65.00
Ringvägen 145 | Södermalm | +4686405801
Mon – Fri 11:00 – 21:00, Sat – Sun 12:00 – 18:00

The first time I visited Roxy I was amazed by the great food and fantastic service. It was love at first sight. And the love is still there. I really cannot find a bad word to say about this place.

Whenever I come here I cannot understand why I don’t eat here every day. Maybe because that would ruin me. But I would be happy every day. Finding gold so close to home is always a sweet, sweet feeling. What’s really the use of using my own kitchen then?

The last time I was here I brought some friends from my home town. I knew they would be impressed, and I wasn’t wrong. Even one friend who is quite pecky with her food was more than happy with what she ordered. The tuna I had was to die for. It’s a fairly small place and you cannot really bring a big company to this restaurant. We were six people and occupied the largest table then. But I guess that’s what makes it so nice too. The small intimate feeling.

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Roxy | Restaurants (International) | Main courses from SEK 200
Nytorget 6 | Södermalm | +4686409655
Tue – Thu & Sun 17:00 – 00:00, Fri – Sat 17:00 – 01:00

I love Indian food. For me, this is the perfect comfort food, and even though I love cooking, I stopped making Indian food at home as it usually takes a big effort and one can enjoy great indian meals out for very affordable prices.

There are many good indian restaurants in Stockholm but Shanti is one of my favorites, along with Indian Garden. It is typically full even during the week and I’d recommend everyone who is going there on weekends either not to show up during dinner rush hour or to just book a table in advance.

Shanti has the typical indian dishes such as tandoori, tikka masala and palak paneer which are consistently excellent. Food is usually served on traditional indian metal dishes and during these global warming times it is important to notice that this spot mostly uses ecological products in its very warm atmosphere. Ah, and the naan bread is worth trying too, but don’t even waste your time trying to get it before your meal, as the chef has some Gordon Ramsays tendencies…

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Shanti | Restaurants (Indian) | Tikka Masala SEK 130.00
Katarina Bangata 58 | Södermalm | +4686426722
Mon – Fri 11:00 – 23:00, Sat – Sun 13:00 – 00:00

I really do like this place. Mostly visiting the bar during the weekdays I had forgotten how crowded it gets during weekends. Crowded in a good way. When a place is this small it can get quite claustrophobic with a lot of people, but Snottys seems to manage that perfectly.

Located on Skånegatan, near Nytorget, it really is the kind bar you just pop in to if you’re in the neighbourhood. It is definitely the kind of bar I just slip down to in the middle of the week for a couple of drinks with my friends in the neighbourhood.

But the small and friendly atmosphere is not all to this place. The music here is so good too. They sometimes have their own dj in the bar and have decorated the walls with old album-covers, posters and magazine articles. So the music is serious business for these people.

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Snotty Sounds Bar | Bars, Music | Beer SEK 45.00
Skånegatan 90 | Södermalm
16:00 – 01:00 daily

A couple of years ago someone came up with the nickname for the Eastern area of Södermalm, Sofo. This area is south of Folkungagatan (A square with Folkungagatan-Götgatan-Renstiernasgata-Ringvägen as borders), hence the name Sofo. Ridiculous said some, brilliant said some.

Anyway, this area is packed with small shops, cafés, bars and restaurants. And the last Thursday every month they make a big happening in the area – Sofo night. During this evening the shops stay open until 21:00 or 22:00. Some shops give you a complimentary glass of wine or bear. You don’t even have to buy anything to get your glass. But you might have to ask for it. Or you miss it, like me and my friend. Strange. Some shops have special discounts these nights too.

But most of all are people out on the streets enjoying the positive vibe Sofo nights give. It really brings more life to the area and make it different and a bit more special than other areas in Stockholm. Sofo is quite lively the rest of the month too, but this adds to it.

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Sofo night | Shopping
Area south of Folkungagatan | Södermalm
Last Thursday every month until 21:00

Svejk has always been popular – and the reason? Czech beer, Czech food and almost Czech prices does the trick. They have several tasty beers on draft like Bernard, Primator and of course the classical Krusovice and Pilsner Urquell. And even though they have increased the prices to 56-57 it’s still a good deal since you get a full 0,5 liter instead of 0,4 like in most other places. And at Svejk they know how to pour it – it can take 10 minutes and has great foam on top. The food is tasty and you get big portions of meaty dishes like gulasch and schnitzel. And nothing on the menu is over 128 kr.

People of all ages, styles and nationalities also come here for the atmosphere with a dark bar area and a slightly more lit up dining room. If you don’t fill up a table with your group you might get to share – a great way to strike up conversations with new people.

The only downside is that you can’t reserve a table and between 18.00 and 20.00 there might be a 60-90 minute wait. My tip is to arrive at 17.00 when they open, many people do. There can even be a small line outside at 16.55 but everybody gets a table then. You can also pass by about an hour before you will get hungry, put your name on the list and then take a stroll until the table is ready for you.

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Soldaten Svejk | Bars, Restaurants | Draft beer SEK 56.00
Östgötagatan 35 | Södermalm | +4686413366
Mon – Thu 17:00 – 00:00, Fri – Sat 17:00 – 01:00, Sun 17:00 – 23:00

You will not have a problem finding a Greek restaurant on Södermalm. They can almost be found on every street. So which one to pick?

One good choice is picking Sonjas grek on Sundays. On Sundays all main courses cost 100 sek. The same food as every other day, but a little cheaper. Appetiser, desserts and drinks cost the same though.

The food always taste really good here. The meat dishes come with potatoes, tzatziki and roasted vegetables. All very delicious. I can personally especially recommend the lamb chops.

The Sunday crowd are all different kinds of people. The cheap lunch / dinner is just as appreciated by families with kids as by the hung-over 20 or 30 something from the neighbourhood.

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Sonjas grek | Restaurants (Greek) | Main courses on Sunday SEK 100.00
Bondegatan 54 | Södermalm | +4687022229
Mon – Fri 10:30 – 14:30 & 16:00 – 23:00, Sat 16:00 – 23:00, Sun 13:00 – 22:00

So what makes this Second Hand shop special? First of all it’s a really light and well organised shop and the people working here are really sweet and helpful.

Second of all they have a pleasant Re-make Department where they give old fabric new life. Check out the corner with cute re-made shirts, dresses and pillows.

And last but not least, Stadsmissionen is a humanitarian organisation which focuses on helping homeless people. Their Second Hand shops are part of their social work.

There are 7 Stadsmissionen Second Hand shops in Stockholm. This one, at Hornsgatan, is one of my favourites. The largest one is at Lövholmsvägen, which I recommend as well. Just jump of at the subway station Liljeholmen and take a 5 minute walk.

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Stadsmissionen | Shopping | Re-made pillow SEK 120.00
Hornsgatan 58 | Södermalm | +4686429335
Mon – Fri 10:00 – 18:00, Sat 11:00 – 16:00, Sun 12:00 – 16:00

I don’t know what happened but my favourite café isn’t my favourite anymore. I still come here and enjoy the furnishing and cosy atmosphere but the sandwiches aren’t like they once used to be.. It’s still cheap though and definitely worth going to, it hasn’t lost it charm.

The atmosphere is warm, relaxed and creative. It was really hip a couple of years ago but people keep coming. Downstairs you find more seats and if it’s nice weather they have a couple of attractive tables outside.

It’s been serving us cheap sandwiches since 1992. Every sandwich comes with a tasty little salad as well. Their Soya-latte is one of the best in town and their carrot cake is excellent. They have music and theatre performances downstairs every Wednesday and the art hanging on the walls is for sale.

Oh, if you like the chair you’re sitting on you can buy it as well, all furniture is for sale.

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String | Art & culture, Coffee & tea, Music, Shopping, Snacks | Sandwich SEK 35.00
Nytorgsgatan 38 | Södermalm | +4687148514
Mon – Fri 09:30 – 21:00, Sat – Sun 10:30 – 19:00

Svart Kaffe was favorite spots for a coffee ever since they started in 1996, but for years it was so tiny that it was hard to get a seat. But lovers of club music still came to hear some cool tunes.

Since the Hello Kitty shop next door got smaller there is now more space for in-house eating. But during summer nobody cares anyway. Svart Kaffes location close to the little square Nytorget means that, when it’s warm, most people come here for a take away. It’s the perfect spot to hang and look at typical Södermalm people – and you will notice more than one with the Svart Kaffe paperbags with the famous “afro dancer”.

Svart Kaffe were no fools and started selling the very popular picnic bags – a coffee of your choice, any sandwich and a pago juice for 70-80 kr. And there are many delicious sandwiches to choose from, over 20 items from SEK 35 to SEK 65 and you can always pick between big and small, with or without meat, heated or cold and with dark or light bread – so be prepared to answer all those questions before you order.

Some of my personal favorites are “salmon with chives cream cheese, tomato and lemon spring onion” and “halloumi with pesto, olives, tomato and red onion”.

The customers have changed from only clubbers to more regular Södermalm people. The free wifi explains the more than occasional laptop you can spot on the tables.

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Svart Kaffe | Coffee & tea, Music, Snacks | Caffe latte SEK 28.00
Södermannagatan 23 | Södermalm | +4684629500
Mon – Thu 08:00 – 20:00, Fri 08:00 – 19:00, Sat – Sun 10:00 – 19:00

Entering this shop is an experience itself with fruity scents striking you straight away, dim lights making you feel at home and rows of beautiful tins packed with carefully chosen blends of tea which leave you stunned and curious.

A bag of their most popular blend “Blend of South” is an unmistakable buy and a great give-away!

The owner Vernon Mauris opened this boutique in 1978 and it’s located on “the hump” at Hornsgatan, in the oldest part of Södermalm. Vernon’s passion and profession is tea; he answers all your questions with a big smile.

If you’re a tea enthusiast this will become your new favourite spot. If you don’t drink tea you will definitely start, I’m sure Mr. Vernon will find something just for you.

But beware, after visiting you might get addicted. There’s something about this place, a pleasant mix of nostalgia, hospitality and exquisiteness.

Their website is great as well. You can get the tea shipped to your place.

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Tea Centre of Stockholm | Coffee & tea, Shopping | Blend of South SEK 39.00
Hornsgatan 46 | Södermalm | +4686404210
Mon – Fri 09:30 – 18:00, Sat 10:00 – 16:00

For all British people and anglophiles in Stockholm this is like a small shop heaven. This is where I guess the Brits go when they are feeling homesick and longing for marmite and Ribena. And the place where us anglophiles go to pick up our beloved love Cadbury chocolate and Walker’s biscuits. It’s all here.

If English food is not what you crave the most they also have a book section with English books, mostly for children, but also Penguin readers and Wordsworth Classics. They also have a small selection of toys, mugs and greeting cards.

The shop is located inside Söderhallarna and is found on the second floor, just take the escalator from the food hall.

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The English Shop | Shopping
Söderhallarna, Medborgarplatsen | Södermalm | +4686404404
Mon – Wed 10:00 – 18:00, Thu – Fri 10:00 – 19:00, Sat 10:00 – 16:00
Sun 12:00 – 16:00

Even though I’ve lived in Stockholm my whole life it took me a long time to find Tjalla Malla. It’s not located in the central shopping district, it’s not close to any metro stop and they have never done any advertising. It’s one of those places you just have to pass by, look in the shop window and say – hey, I have to go in here.

Tjalla Malla is all about the small designers. They carry clothes from about 200 different names and most of them you have never heard of before. That makes most of the items in the shop very unique and the chance of you ending up at a party wearing the same dress as someone else is smaller than getting hit by lightning.

There are also some hand picked vintage clothes here as well as accessories, shoes and jewellery. Since there are so many different designers behind the clothes you never know what you are going to find. No day is the same. And some days, it’s like going treasure hunting.

If you missed Tjalla Malla during your Stockholm trip you can always check out the online shop on the website.

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Tjalla Malla | Shopping | Rokin boots SEK 1750.00
Bondegatan 46 | Södermalm | +4686407847
Mon – Fri 12:00 – 18:00, Sat 12:00 – 16:00

Fancy a drink with a vampire? This is one of the coolest bars in Stockholm, for sure! Pass the door, go down the stairs and enter a very different atmosphere set in a cave.

The drinks really make this place, most of them have vampire-names and are delicious as hell! You have to try a Milkshake drink, they’re like candy. My favourite is Vlad the Impaler and yeah, Monday is the day to come here since it’s much cheaper. There’s a new DJ playing records every night and if you’re not into alcohol it’s alright, all drinks can be ordered alcohol-free!

Sit down on a comfy, red sofa with your drink, red wine or beer and enjoy the atmosphere with candle lights and interesting ornaments. The toilet is also quite interesting…

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Vampire Lounge | Bars, Music, Snacks | Drink SEK 60.00
Östgötagatan 41 | Södermalm | +4686432240
Mon – Fri 17:00 – 01:00, Sat 19:00 – 01:00

We don’t have Starbucks in Sweden, but most coffee shops still tend to look the same. Wallins is one of the exceptions. This is as far away from trends or Starbucks you can get.

This is an old patisserie and where I go when I want to indulge myself in strawberry cakes, marzipan cakes, cinnamon buns, danish pastries and many, many more delicious, unhealthy treats.

And this time of the year you shouldn’t miss trying a semla. A cardemom-bun with marzipan and whipped cream. Delicious. But hurry, they will only be for sale a couple of more weeks.

If cakes is not what your craving is screaming for they have good sandwiches too. The sandwiches are not the regular mozzarella-prosciutto you find in most coffee shops. Here they serve them with eggs and kaviar (Swedish fish roe paste) or with liver pâté and sour pickled gherkin (not my favourite though). One of my favourites when it comes to the sandwich-family is the sandwich-cake (?). Very Swedish. And very delicious. Just try it.

With my cake or pastries I prefer regular coffee and this is one of the few places where they won’t give you that weird look if you actually order just a regular cup of coffee. Of course you can have a caffe latte or cappuccino too.

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Wallins | Coffee & tea | Cup of coffee SEK 20.00
Ringvägen 109 | Södermalm | +4686441172
Mon – Fri 07:00 – 18:00, Sat 08:00 – 17:00

Cheap Monday jeans has spread like a wildfire over the world but did you know that it was here, in Stockholm – and more exactly in the shop Weekday, it started.

The first Weekday opened in 2002 and sold a lot of denim but from quite expensive brands. The owners thought it was time to change this and came up with Cheap Monday, which would only cost 400 kr (40 euros).

The first 800 pairs with a very tight stretchy fit hit the market in March 2004, they sold out immediately. Not long after, you could see the significant skull logo on almost every backside in Stockholm, especially in the area of Södermalm. It was also here Weekday opened their next shop – a huge one with two floors on Götgatan in 2005. The even bigger one on Drottninggatan came 2007.

When Cheap Monday first came you had to look around to find them, many shops that carried them were small and didn’t keep a big stock. Now you just need to hit one of the Weekdays and you will find every style, colour and size you could possibly want. The shops also have a great selection of second hand clothes.

I usually visit the shop on Götgatan because I frequent that area. In the central parts of town the big shop is on Drottninggatan 63 and a smaller one on Olofsgatan 1. The Drottninggatan shop opens one hour earlier all days but also closes one hour earlier on weekdays.

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Weekday | Shopping | Cheap Monday Jeans SEK 400
Götgatan 21 | Södermalm | +4686421772
Mon – Fri 10:00 – 20:00, Sat 11:00 – 18:00, Sun 12:00 – 17:00