In Georgia, bread (puri) comes in a variety of shapes and sizes, with each region having its own shape. Some are long and curved, others are more rounded. The most traditional are made in a cylinder shaped terracotta oven (tone) in which heat is produced from the bottom and bread is baked on the hot sides. I am always mesmerized by bakers, during their working hours they get into a rhythm.

As I do not possess any kind of bread-baking skills, I go to the masters for my daily bread. The master baker Sasha Jabidze has been baking bread for over 60 years, over 20 in in this bakery under the Sioni Church, right off the main tourist street. It’s quite easy to find, follow your nose below the church and buy a loaf of your choice. I always stay for a bit and watch the magic of bread rising and baking.