Cinema

When you want to see a film classic in Croatia, and by classic I mean something other than American production or older than… well, 2008; most often you have nowhere to go. Even if you try renting a dvd, you’ll have trouble finding something that doesn’t have ‘Hollywood’ written all over it. Thankfully, there are a few cinemas in Zagreb where quality is more important than glamour; the most alternative one being the Tuškanac cinema.

There’s nothing posh or capitalistic about this little gem. They don’t sell popcorn and there are no glossy posters, but they’ll give you a chance to watch the best that European cinematography has to offer. As can the Asian, American… You got it – good movies from all around the world. There are famous names like Truffaut and Bertolucci, but also less known producers from countries ranging from Ukraine to Peru. You name the state – at one point you’ll get to see a weekly programme including a dozen of its great movies.

They have the cheapest tickets in town – sometimes the screenings are even free. If you’re fed up with popular blockbusters, the best thing you could do is to visit Tuškanac cinema and treat yourself to a good piece of art film.

After the invasion of big corporations into the cinema industry Croatian old cinemas followed the route of I believe many old cinemas, at least in European tradition, that have reinvented themselves as specialized in certain “alternative” genres. One such story is the famous Kino Europa (check the Kino Europa article) in Zagreb.

Another one, not as famous but nonetheless equally interesting, is the creation of Dokukino Croatia – a cinema with only 37 seats. Ah, but beware dear film-lover, these seats are not your ordinary movie seats, rather comfortable sofas from which you can enjoy the best of the best documentaries.

Yes, Dokukino, as its name tells us specializes in documentary films and doesn’t screen any other genre, making it unique in itself. The cinema was reopened in 2009 by the initiative of Restart association and Croatia film company. Its purpose is to become the focal point of documentary-lovers’ gatherings, which is why the cinema organizes not only movie projections (both recent production and archive footage) but also talks with directors and various film workshops.

And yes, it does encompass a café in itself, where you can chill and talk movies. And documentaries.

Although Cinema Grič has existed as long as I can remember, it opened its fully redecorated interior in 2009. The front area is consisted of a colourful bar that has two floors and a small club situated in the basement.

The club is open Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. The entrance is free!

The whole three front floors are also used as a showroom for different art exhibitions and a meeting place for various book promotions and festivals. In the back area you can find a small but cozy projection room, where you can watch a film, depending on the current program.

The whole place is very appealing, full of color and charm. During evenings it is very crowded and dynamic which makes it an ideal place to start a promising weekend night out. Although this place looks like it has it all, the Club works until 02:00 so you are advised to continue your socializing and dancing in some other city center club.

MSU – Muzej suvremene umjetnosti is a newly built museum, after years of putting effort into securing an adequate space for vast art collections dating from the beginning of the 20th century.

The architect of the Museum, Igor Franić, respected the tradition of functionalist architecture and designed a building which continues the orientation of the Green Horseshoe – series of interconnected parks situated in the city center designed by famous architect Milan Lenuci.

Except, MSU is situated in the area called Novi Zagreb, right across the river Sava. A five-story museum looks like a meander and its presence is best seen at night when it is lit up with fantastic light shows.

On the ground floor you can find museum shop, children’s workshop, library with a reading hall, a minor exhibition space, restaurant, and a multimedia hall, where arthouse cinema Metropolis takes place. The exhibition rooms are located on the upper floors of the Museum.

My typical Museum day consists of a coffee and croissant breakfast at the Museum café, after which I take a walk through the Museum’s collections. Interesting to explore is also the studio of the famous artist Ivan Kožarić, integrated between the permanent collection and occasional exhibitions.

There is always something exciting to be found related to Croatian and ex-Yugoslavian rich cultural heritage – every time I visit the Museum I am surprised by noticing something I missed last time, which makes me eager to visit MSU more often.

Tip: every first Wednesday of the month there is free entrance.

Kino Europa is the most beautiful cinema in Zagreb, made in post-secession classicist style in 1924. It is situated in Varšavska street – a street that has recently been a scene of a civil initiative and protests due to city government’s nontransparent politics related to an engineering project placed just a few meters away from the cinema.

Actually, from its beginnings, this cinema has been a bystander of political turmoil. It survived several political regimes, changed its initial name from „Balkan kino” to more eligible „Kino Europa” during the War of Independence, but in spite of all those changes, it has kept its doors open for every film buff in the city.

In 2008, after the civil initiative for preservation of this opulent cinema, city government entrusted its management to Zagreb Film Festival organization. Thanks to them, the citizens of Zagreb have one more place where they’re able to watch latest independent films, national and international festival laureates, and all those films they won’t easily find in some Movieplex. Kino Europa has also become a national film center that is a host to many film festivals and art related promotions as well.

Besides, it’s a place in which you can drink excellent coffee, wine and grappa at the Kino Europa café, use free wireless internet connection, check some new art-exhibition and dance on club nights every Friday and Saturday. All of that combined definitely makes Kino Europa Zagreb’s perfect hotspot.

For the exact film program and event information, click here.