Park, music school, club, cathedral. Take your pick. If you’re into a walk in a park in the very heart of the city, here you go. If you want to learn how to play an instrument or sing, over there you go as well. And if you want to listen to those who have already learned how to play and sing, there you go again. All in the shade of the centuries old walls of the Zagreb cathedral.

Ribnjak is the name of the park where all this takes place. Although in my opinion there are nicer parks in Zagreb (Maksimir, Zrinjevac and its companions along the Lenuci’s Green Horseshoe) one cannot deny that Ribnjak has a special vibe to it, especially during the past couple of years and interesting initiatives such as the Park in Zagreb two-week long music festival at the beginning of every summer.

The name of the club in the middle of the park is “Purgeraj” which could be translated as the meeting point of true Zagreb folk (“purger” being a colloquial word for those whose family has lived in Zagreb for generations).

The music school is called “Rock Akademija” and offers classes of most instruments needed to form a rock-band.

Finally, an interesting and valuable fact is that the gas-station across the street from Ribnjak is open 24-7, if you’re in need of cigarettes or anything else in the center of Zagreb in the middle of the night.

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Ribnjak | Music, Relaxing | Free
Ribnjak | Upper town
24 hours daily

Having lived in Prague for 5 years, I’ve become addicted to stunning views. Upon return to Zagreb, I’ve spent nights looking for a view of the city that would give me that feeling – when you have the overview of the whole city beneath you and feel calm and privileged to be a part of it.

Zagreb’s topography, however, is completely different, without available hills on every corner and you really have to climb up to Medvednica mountain to get a view of the city. This was frustrating, until I realized I had to alter my expectations and that the view was right under my nose the whole time.

Maksimir park is a few minutes walk from the house I grew up in. In the centre of this beautiful park, there’s a small hill with a belvedere on top, standing proudly overlooking the main entrance. Here I’ve spent numerous afternoons having coffee in the sun with friends, after or before those long walks by the Maksimir lakes.

However, my favorite moments were by myself on a bench overlooking the main entrance, contemplating and realizing that I am indeed left with a beautiful view in front of my eyes. Completely different from the ones I was used to but with the same feeling – of peace and happiness.

So if you’re passing by at any time of year, feel welcome to sit next by, have a chat or simply be happy to belong to this place and time as well.

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Maksimir Belvedere | Coffee & tea, Relaxing | Free
Park Maksimir | Maksimir
24 hours daily

All jazz lovers coming by train won’t see much of Zagreb if they enter Bacchus. Situated less than 100m from the central train station, this bar offers food and drink for both body and soul, serving as a perfect welcome, farewell or just a quick resting place for an inquisitive wanderer.

A bar with history, a former legendary notorious hot spot and gay meeting point, reopened its doors in 2008. with a new concept, slowly regaining it’s undeservedly lost cult status. The first thing that one notices upon entering is the details.

Everything here is about details. Every time you look around you will notice something new, from numerous antique writing machines, gramophones, radios, television sets, car models and wardrobes to a trapped baby doll, yellow rubber duck and a shark gnawing on a disco ball, to name just a few. The counter itself is made of an old bookshelf filled with books, and you get the check in one of them.

Jazz is played Wed-Sat, and the programme can be checked on their web page. If the weather is nice, you can sit in the garden up front, which reminds of a grandma’s back garden, extremely pleasant and relaxing.

The wine list is rather short but carefully selected, featuring wines from Argentina, Chile, California, Republic of South Africa as well as Croatian pride and glory. Besides wines, they offer a great list of cocktails and rakija made with herbs, berries, sour cherries, honey, pear, myrtle, and even nettle.

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Bacchus Jazz Bar | Art & culture, Bars, Music, Relaxing | Wine bottle from Kn 110
Trg Kralja Tomislava 16 | Lower town | +38514922218
10:00 – 00:00 daily

Peaceful and tranquil, this body of water has a magic appeal to human beings trapped in the city. Located in Novi Zagreb (New Zagreb), on the southern bank of Sava, this place used to be one of favourite bathing places in Zagreb in the 60-s and 70-s. During the 80-s and 90-s people kinda forgot about it and it turned into a swamp and a thicket, a small jungle in the city centre. Luckily, the whole place was rediscovered and refurbished in 2005 and has ever since become favourite location for pleasant festivals and relaxing events, or just spending an afternoon chilling and BBQ-ing.

For the sportsmen types, there’s a running/cycling track, a fishing pond and a beach volley court. When the sun sets, its BBQ-time. In the grove around the lake, you can find wooden gazebos and nearby BBQs, use of which is free of charge, you just need to get there in time and claim your spot. You can even rent a grill (however only on Saturdays and Sundays, and they have to be returned by 19:00) for free, bring your own or ask someone to use theirs.

In the middle of the lake, there is a floating platform for bands and performers. Each year there is a FloraArt flower festival in May and a four-day Summer fireworks festival in June – when you get to listen to Zagreb Philharmonic Orchestra in open air and later lie on the grass, watch fireworks and nibble on delicatessen from the nearby fair.

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Lake Bundek | Art & culture, Coffee & tea, Relaxing | Beer Kn 15.00
Lake Bundek | Novi Zagreb
24 hours daily

One of my favorite places in Zagreb is definitely Booksa. Booksa is a book club, but you don’t have to be a member to enjoy everything this place offers (only, if you come there more than once, it’s advisable to sign up for their membership card). The catchy name comes from a slang – in Croatian “buksa” means prison. So, if you are “prisoner” of your love for literature you will feel like home here.

The atmosphere is very “homely” indeed – ordering drinks is a sort of self-service thing and after you sit back and relax on one of the cozy sofas you can feel free to take a look at various newspapers and literature magazines, even in foreign languages. This tobacco-free place delights all your senses because, once you enter, you are immediately surrounded by pictures or photos from local artists, good music and, of course, books.

You can run into a live concert, book presentation, some literature festival or one of many literature workshops held for its members. However, Booksa isn’t a standard bar – they serve alcohol only when mentioned manifestations are being held. “Soft” drinks, like coffee or tea are always attainable.

Booksa also offers lots of brochures and information about Zagreb cultural happenings. In that way, this book club is a perfect starting point for exploring the city.

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Booksa | Art & culture, Coffee & tea, Relaxing, Shopping | Caffe Latte Kn 9.00
Martićeva 14d | Lower town | +38514616124
Tue – Sun 11:00 – 20:00

One of the easiest ways to escape the streets of Zagreb’s centre is to take a bus or just walk to the place between Tuškanac, Upper town’s Jurjevska street and Gornje Prekrižje area, called Cmrok. This giant and slightly rangy meadow, which arises from the woods, is beloved by many citizens who wish to relax surrounded by green grass and pine trees.

Cmrok is reachable by bus No.105 from Kaptol or British square, but I would recommend you to take a nice walk from British square or Upper town. Depending on your choice, you will surely be able to enjoy Zagreb’s residential areas (especially Tuškanac) and/or romantic streets of Upper town before you get to your destination.

The meadow of Cmrok isn’t overcrowded – you can feel free to chill out without being interrupted. There are lots of dog owners who walk their pets, so eventually, you may be distracted by some curious dog. This doesn’t count during Winter time, when snow falls and a great deal of children and grown-ups literally invade Cmrok for the purpose of sleigh-ride.

What I love the most about it is a beautiful view over the Lower town and Mirogoj arcades spreading from the hilly side of the lawn, which makes you in a perfect position to enjoy Zagreb’s cultural heritage while sitting in greenery.

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Cmrok | Relaxing | Free
Cmrok | Upper town
24 hours daily

Have you ever been to a place where you felt like a millionaire, but in a potentially non-pretentious way? I thought that such place doesn’t exist but clearly it does. It is called Galerija Lav. Hence the name, it is also a gallery.

There are three separate rooms, each of them differently decorated but in an equally stunning decor. The owners, art-lovers themselves, carefully paid attention to every detail of the Caffe. Some of the furnishings are high-class designer products (Philippe Starck Louis Ghost chairs, for example) and the paintings and sculptures are originals, ready for sale.

Coffee is served in porcelain cups, along with a cookie (needless to say) and it tastes like it looks like – really good. Its price isn’t overpriced, which is very important.

The location of the place is also great, for it serves as a stand during a walk through the Upper town, as it is situated right over the Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata), one of the Zagreb sights. Actually, the terrace of the Caffe overlooks it, so if you decide to sip your drink in the outdoors you will also enjoy the view.

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Caffe Galerija Lav | Art & culture, Coffee & tea, Relaxing | Coffee Kn 9.00
Opatička 2 | Upper town | +38514922108
Mon – Sat 09:00 – 23:00, Sun 10:00 – 15:00

The Botanical garden of the Faculty of Science (University of Zagreb) is situated in the very Centre of the city. It’s easily accessible and represents a truly peaceful oasis, excluded from city’s everyday turbulence. It is also a monument of nature and culture, because of its important educational, cultural and historical value.

The Garden is divided into a few sections – the arboretum, designed in an English landscape style, a flower parterre, made in French style, greenhouses with exotic plants, a rock garden section with indigenous plants and an attractive artificial lake.

Croatian indigenous plants are something worth seeing, due to the extremely diverse Croatian flora. Because of the country’s unique location between continental and Mediterranean climates its plant species are more numerous than the plant species of France, Spain or Germany, for example.

The Garden has many benches to sit on and enjoy the quiet. You can read a book or simply relax while watching turtles and fish swimming in the pond. You can also see an authentic 19th century exhibition pavilion. You see, there are lots of things to do and explore. Whatever you choose, this place assures you of its relaxing quality with every step you take.

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Botanical garden | Relaxing | Free
Marulićev trg 9a | Lower town | +38514898060
May – Sep Mon – Tue 09:00 – 14:30, Wed – Sun 09:00 – 19:00 | Apr & Oct 09:00 – 18:00

The Museum of Street Art, like any other street art exhibition space, doesn’t have a permanent space or opening times for its exhibitions. Therefore, its current whereabouts could easily transform when you decide to visit Zagreb. Moreover, it represents the continuous dialogue between the artists, citizens and city’s authorities.

In 2010,  the Museum of Street Art initiative was taken under the supervision of internationally renowned Croatian artists and concluded one of its efforts by repainting the old graffiti-covered Branimirova street wall.

The idea of this project is to revitalize city’s everyday appearance and remodel the traditional sightseeing paths which usually end in front of the Museum of Modern Art.  The whole project itself is consisted of continous sporadic sub-projects. The first one, like I mentioned, was to repaint the Branimirova wall, which was successfully done. Lately, another project took place at Novi Zagreb, thanks to which the neglected Dugave area, along with its walls and facades, transformed into the new must-see street art hotspot. 

As far as I can tell, all the projects have been received with praise – the locals are overjoyed with the changes in their everyday surroundings and eagerly await new street art actions, as well as seeing how Zagreb transforms into more lively space of imaginative intersocial dialogue.

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Museum of Street Art | Art & culture, Relaxing
Kneza Branimira | Lower town
24 hours daily

It has been known that Zagreb has a Sun. Actually, a Grounded Sun, sculpture made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971. It changed a few locations over the years but it has been situated in Bogovićeva street since 1994.

The Grounded Sun has been a source of inspiration for many artists. Among them is a designer Davor Preis, who made an installation called Nine Views in 2004 – he placed nine models of planets (Pluto was still considered a planet at the time) all over Zagreb, which, along with the Kožarić’s Sun form a model of the Solar System. The planets’ sizes and distances from the Grounded Sun are in the same scale as the Grounded Sun itself.

The installation gained little publicity and most of the citizens of Zagreb aren’t even aware that they daily pass right besides Mercury, Venus, Earth and Mars, which are placed within the city’s center.

The locations of the planets are easy to ignore, especially the outer ones, which are hard to find without putting an effort. Zagreb Physics students were the first to organize a planet search-party, after which they revealed all their locations to the public.

If you’re interested to see those planets, have fun and REALLY get to know Zagreb, here are the planets’ locations:

Mercury – Margaretska 3; Venus – Trg bana Jelačića 3; Earth – Varšavska 9; Mars – Tkalčićeva 21; Jupiter – Voćarska 71; Saturn – Račićeva 1; Uranus – Siget 9; Neptune – Kozari put; Pluto – Aleja Bologne (underpass)

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Zagreb Solar System | Art & culture, Relaxing
Bogovićeva | Lower town
24 hours daily