Even though you won’t find Zagreb on the European music connoisseurs’ and record buyers’ map as an important location for getting records of any kind, for the local vinyl enthusiasts, there is one street that’s particularly important: Tratinska.

If you walk from the Center of the city towards the Trešnjevka area, you’ll have to pass Tratinska. On the right side of this street you’ll find two different, but somehow complementary music shops: one is Spirit of Music and the other, about 50 meters after it, is the Free Bird Music Shop.

The first one (photos on the right) offers a relatively vast selection of new and old CDs and vinyl – mostly indie, 80′s, jazz and soul. Place is extremely tidy and well sorted, so you won’t have problems browsing through any specific genre of your interest.

Free Bird Music Shop (larger photo) is slightly different. Seemingly chaotic and much heavy on the vinyl side, it is offering almost indefinite number of second-hand records. You’ll find all sorts of stuff there – from classic funk and disco records, often obscure but sometimes quite rare house and techno to kitschy ex-Yugoslavia folk and schlager scene.

However, pay attention to records of the new-wave and romantic period of Yugoslavian eighties. Also, check some Yugoslavian or Macedonian jazz records, they sound great and are very collectible. Don’t hesitate to ask staff for some help – even though the place seems quite chaotic, they are pretty aware of the stuff they stock.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Spirit of Music & Free Bird | Music, Shopping | Vinyl from Kn 10.00
Tratinska 30 | Tresnjevka | +38515509904
Mon – Fri 11:00 -19:00, Sat – 11:00 – 14:00

In the first years of the 3rd millennium, prof. Carole Meredith discovered that grapes Zinfandel and Crljenak Kaštelanski have the identical genetic profile, therefore are the same sort. After a couple hundred more hours in the lab (i.e. wine cellar) she also discovered that the aforementioned Mr. Zinfandel had an affair with Mrs. Dobričić from the island of Šolta which gave birth to the little and much beloved Plavac Mali.

P.Z. Podšpilje (a farming cooperative) from the island of Vis produces excellent Plavac Mali, a quality dry red wine, which can be bought for ridiculously cheap prices in the centre of Zagreb. Although it seems very light and it slides down smoothly, do not be tricked by its apparent playfulness, this wine has 12.5% alcohol. Goes well with red meat, cheeses and oily fish. And Coke.

As its faithful companion, also from the wine growing hills of Vis, comes Vugava – a quality dry white wine. Vugava is made by grapes cultivated in Dalmacija since the Ancient times, when Vis was called Issa and when the Greek historian Agatharchides claimed that Vugava “is superior to every other wine whatever“. Today’s Vugava is a rather sweetish and fruitish wine, which lacks a bit of acidity. Nevertheless, beware of Vugava because it reaches up to 14% alc. content. Goes well with all fish and white meat.

Besides those two wines, available from huge barrels or bottled, one can also find some great grape rakija with herbs and vinegar, all from the island of Vis.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
P.Z. Podšpilje | Shopping, Snacks | Plavac mali Kn 15.00
Kralja Držislava 10 | Lower town | +3853776735
Mon – Fri 09:00 – 15:30, Sat 09:00 – 14:00

After being bought by Varta in the 90′s, this factory has expanded in the recent years and broadened their palette of products. Unfortunately, as the business got going, they closed the discount shop that was previously in the factory yard.

However, you can still go to the factory’s workshop (first building on the left once you enter the yard) and buy some freshly assembled batteries for almost half the price they’re sold in the stores. If you need to replace the old batteries from a device (such as wristwatch), they will do it free of charge, i.e. they will charge you only new batteries.

So, if you use a lot of gadgets, or like to do some photography – you’ll appreciate a backup set of (re)charged batteries. This is the place to get the stuff when in Zagreb.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Croatia baterije | Shopping | 2500 mAh AA NiMH rechargeable Kn 30.00
Koturaška 69 | Lower town | +38516171211
Mon – Fri 07:00 – 15:00

One of my favorite places in Zagreb is definitely Booksa. Booksa is a book club, but you don’t have to be a member to enjoy everything this place offers (only, if you come there more than once, it’s advisable to sign up for their membership card). The catchy name comes from a slang – in Croatian “buksa” means prison. So, if you are “prisoner” of your love for literature you will feel like home here.

The atmosphere is very “homely” indeed – ordering drinks is a sort of self-service thing and after you sit back and relax on one of the cozy sofas you can feel free to take a look at various newspapers and literature magazines, even in foreign languages. This tobacco-free place delights all your senses because, once you enter, you are immediately surrounded by pictures or photos from local artists, good music and, of course, books.

You can run into a live concert, book presentation, some literature festival or one of many literature workshops held for its members. However, Booksa isn’t a standard bar – they serve alcohol only when mentioned manifestations are being held. “Soft” drinks, like coffee or tea are always attainable.

Booksa also offers lots of brochures and information about Zagreb cultural happenings. In that way, this book club is a perfect starting point for exploring the city.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Booksa | Art & culture, Coffee & tea, Relaxing, Shopping | Caffe Latte Kn 9.00
Martićeva 14d | Lower town | +38514616124
Tue – Sun 11:00 – 20:00

Café Velvet was a former meeting point with a cult status. But several years ago it closed its doors, leaving Zagreb without one more bustling and colorful café. That is, until last year, when the new owners reopened it with a significant touch of an artsy flare. Now Velvet is constituted of a beautifully decorated café, where you can treat yourself with a tasty coffee, freshly made juices, toasts, cakes, pies and soups, and an art-gallery situated right next to the café.

Personally I find Velvet as one of the ideal places for a relaxing chit-chat with your friends. After a hard-day work, when all the lights in Velvet come up, having a pleasant conversation in a smoke-free environment and a nice cup of coffee with all those tasty delights on the menu feels right to me. Even if you don’t have a friend to keep you company, this place is relaxing enough for you to read newspapers or a book, watching locals and movie buffs from Cinema Tuškanac pass by.

Of course, if you are in a very chatty mood, you can make friends with the co-owner Saša Šekoranja, an acclaimed florist and artist, who is there very often. In fact, if one of the customers in some way inspires the artist, he will personally draw the costumer’s portrait and hang it on the wall along with the numerous pictures, mostly blank and waiting for future models.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Velvet | Art & culture, Coffee & tea, Shopping, Snacks | Fresh juice Kn 15.00
Dežmanova ulica 9 | Upper town | +38514846743
Mon – Fri 08:00 – 22:00, Sat 08:00 – 15:00, Sun 08:00 – 14:00

Prostor (Space, in English) is one of a kind store. In fact, it is not just a store, it is also a gallery. Its concept is to promote upcoming independent designers and artists. In this beautiful space, while you check out a selection of clothing and accessories that are made by Croatian craftsmen, as well as foreign, you can browse through cool art, comics, magazines and music.

The exhibitions change very often and are always accompanied by fun social events that expand to the store’s courtyard. Those gatherings are a boost to young and often anonymous people who want to share their creative ideas.

So, if you are interested in finding a unique store where you could learn and experience something new, inspiring and urban, drop in Mesnička street. The prices aren’t cheap but I guess that is what you could expect out of unique products. The staff is really nice and whether you are interested in buying something for you or your child or just picking up ideas for a new style this season you will have a pleasant time.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Prostor | Art & culture, Shopping
Mesnička 5 (courtyard) | Lower town | +38514846016
Mon – Fri 12:00 – 20:00, Sat 10:00 – 15:00

If you happen to stay in Zagreb during Sunday, you should definitely visit the Antique and collectibles fair on British square. It is one of the Zagreb’s vivid symbols, always busy and full of people in search for a nice antique or a thoughtful present with a peculiar charm.

On rather sleepy Zagreb Sundays visiting this fair is a good way to experience a lively local gathering. Although the fair works until 14:00 hours, the best time for a visit is in the morning or around noon. After you look for some interesting and unique souvenirs, having a cup of coffee in the area of the Square is essential.

Personally, I love antique fairs and flea markets because, to me, it is a perfect way to experience local culture and traditions. A visit to such place gets you involved in a world of colour, antiques, kitsch, dusty books, shiny porcelain and scratched tin cups. Every item has a story and it’s hard not to feel fanciful in a surrounding like this.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Antique fair on British square | Art & culture, Shopping | Free
Britanski trg | Lower town
Sun 08:00 – 14:00

PMS – Prostor Manufakturne Slobode (the space of manufacturing freedom) has opened just recently and is quickly becoming the new hotspot for all of those looking for a piece of creativity in Zagreb.

This cozy shop in one of Zagreb’s busiest streets offers the widest range of creativity. If you’re looking for a new piece of jewelry, a dress, hat, painting or even a lamp from recycled washing machine parts, look no further. It is very refreshing to have a space in Zagreb which provides artists and artisans with a place where they can exhibit and sell their work on a regular basis, and with no restrictions. The owner is open to anyone who wants to showcase their work and will give everyone a chance in line with the terms of the free market – let the end user decide! 

This philosophy brings about a constant change within PMS, so you can be sure you will not be seeing the same stuff there over and over again. Only change is constant and I am very happy and excited to see how PMS will develop and transform itself on its path. At the moment, it’s quirky, fresh and interesting, hopefully it will stay the same. 

Details about this spot (Show on map)
PMS | Art & culture, Shopping | From Kn 50
Tkalčićeva 61 | Upper town
Mon – Fri 10:00 – 20:00

Coming from the German word “shpitze” meaning “tip”, the Zagreb “špica” is a peculiar social phenomenon that doesn’t happen that often in other European cities, at least based on the feedback from my international friends.

It happens on Saturday mornings, more precisely between 10:00 a.m. and 14:00. It makes sense to get around to doing everything you didn’t have time throughout the week on Saturday morning – going to the market, doing some shopping around town, meeting friends for a coffee and catching up etc. But what is specific about “špica” is that everyone tends to do that in the range of a couple of streets downtown, looking their best.

So, if you take a walk around Bogovićeva, “Cvjetni trg” area, Tkalčićeva and the main square, you’ll see women in their fur coats looking as if they just came out of the hairdressers, pushing their strollers around in the highest imaginable heels just being their everyday fabulous selves. And the men don’t lack behind much.

Although for this one Saturday mornings are reserved for sleeping; sunny weather, a friend or some choir may get me up and about downtown where I end up amazed once again by the ingenuity and pure energy put into getting your amazing self there to the “tip”. So, if you want to see the best of the best in Zagreb, meet celebrities and celebrity wannabes, witness the latest trends, or bump into almost everyone you know in Zagreb, špica is the place to go.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Špica | Coffee & tea, Shopping | Free
Mirka Bogovića | Lower town
Sat 10:00 – 14:00

5