Lower town – Local tips (art & culture)

All jazz lovers coming by train won’t see much of Zagreb if they enter Bacchus. Situated less than 100m from the central train station, this bar offers food and drink for both body and soul, serving as a perfect welcome, farewell or just a quick resting place for an inquisitive wanderer.

A bar with history, a former legendary notorious hot spot and gay meeting point, reopened its doors in 2008. with a new concept, slowly regaining it’s undeservedly lost cult status.  The first thing that one notices upon entering is the details.

Everything here is about details. Every time you look around you will notice something new, from numerous antique writing machines, gramophones, radios, television sets, car models and wardrobes to a trapped baby doll, yellow rubber duck and a shark gnawing on a disco ball, to name just a few. The counter itself is made of an old bookshelf filled with books, and you get the check in one of them.

Jazz is played Wed-Sat, and the programme can be checked on their web page. If the weather is nice, you can sit in the garden up front, which reminds of a grandma’s back garden, extremely pleasant and relaxing.

The bar is rather small, with just 8 or so tables, which adds to the appeal, but should be taken into account when coming in the evening.

The wine list is rather short but carefully selected, featuring wines from Argentina, Chile, California, Republic of South Africa as well as Croatian pride and glory.  Besides wines, they offer a great list of cocktails and rakija made with herbs, berries, sour cherries, honey, pear, myrtle, and even nettle.

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Bacchus Jazz Bar | Art & culture, Bars, Music, Relaxing | Wine bottle from Kn 110
Trg Kralja Tomislava 16 | Lower town | +38514922218
10:00 – 00:00 daily

Džamija is a great place to go to if you simply want to stop and take a five minute break, read a book, enjoy the sun or talk to a friend. If art is something that interests you, you can always check some exhibition, because the building itself is a museum.

Džamija is a Croatian word for mosque. Even though this building really was a mosque from 1944 for a short period of time (before that it was a Association of Artists Ivan Meštrović, and now is a Croatian Association of Artists) local people still call it džamija. But the word has hardly any religious connotations.

The round shape of the building, its exterior and the fact that the place is surrounded by the roads, streets and traffic jam has always made me think of džamija as a getaway island from the city noise, situated in the city center. Even though you can still hear the noise while sitting there, it is only a background noise that you don’t pay much attention to.

When I was in high school this was my number one spot to go to when skipping classes. Nowadays is my number one spot when I just want to sit and relax.

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Džamija | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
Trg žrtava fašizma | Lower town
24 hours daily

The KIC club is a funky little place situated on the second floor of a building overlooking the edge of the Preradović square.

The bar itself isn’t really visually impressive- it could be described as a simple square room with walls painted in a dull shade of grey, and a cluster of small tables surrounded by colourful but shabby chairs and sofas. Yet there’s a cool, laid-back vibe to it that you just won’t be able to resist. KIC is always buzzing with lots of people, mostly young intellectuals.

The waiters have serious mood swings- one time they’ll serve you right away and even throw in a smile for free, another time you’ll wait and wait until you get pretty frustrated. Eventually you’ll grow fond of them and you’ll start to play along.

Oh, not to forget- as KIC stands for ‘cultural information centre’ in Croatian, you might think that something cultural actually takes place there every now and then. You’d be right: there are movi

e nights (and most of those aren’t silly blockbusters, but something you’d be glad to watch), various lectures and photography exhibitions.

Those photos are one of my favourite things about this place- you’ll spot them the minute you walk in, and they’re usually quite attractive so they’ll give you something to occupy yourself with as you’re drinking your morning coffee. Oh, it’s evening already? Well, just enjoy the company of your friends while having a drink and chilling out at this great artsy bar.

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KIC club | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea | Cappuccino Kn 10.00
Preradovićeva 5 | Lower town
Mon – Sat 08:00 – 01:00, Sun 10:00 – 01:00

Marko Marulić’s square is a part of so called Lenuzzi’s green horseshoe, a series of eight green squares which also include Zrinjevac, Strossmayer’s square, King Tomislav’s square, Ante Starčević’s square, Botanic garden, Brothers Mažuranić’s square and Marshal Tito’s square. Lenuzzi’s green horseshoe is the most valuable and indigenous urbanist project in Zagreb at the end of 19th century.

The square got its name by a Croatian Renaissance poet, one of the most important figures in Croatian literature. Marko Marulić is even called the father of Croatian literature.

The square itself and its surroundings are really enjoyable. The statue of Marko Marulić dominates the entire place and his impressive figure tells a lot about his importance. On the square you will also find the beautiful building of the former National and University Library. Today this is the building of Croatian State Archives.

Even if you don’t like to visit buildings during your travel, you should at least visit this square because it will give you a chance to get a more complete picture of Zagreb.

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Marko Marulić’s square | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
Trg Marka Marulić’s | Lower town
24 hours daily

When you’re visiting a foreign city, especially if it’s the capital, it would be a shame not to go and see its greatest galleries and museums. I know it’s a pretty conventional tip, but as I’m studying to be an art historian, it’s the first thing that comes to my mind.

One of my favourite places of that kind in Zagreb is the Modern gallery. Don’t mix it up with the Museum of Modern Art- that one is still in construction. Until it’s completed, the Modern gallery is the best place to go if you’re into modern art. It’s situated in the city centre, halfway between the Central train station and the Jelačić square.

The collection, composed of some 700 pieces, covers a period of two hundred years of Croatian art, from 1800 to 2000. You’ll find a number of great Croatian artist from Vlaho Bukovac to Edo Murtić. The names may not mean much to you, but if you’re an art lover you will surely have a positive reaction when you see the paintings and sculptures. Don’t be intimidated by the ‘modern’ part- even if you’re not into avantgarde and abstract art you’ll find something you will like, as the collection consists of works created during several art movements. The part on the first floor mostly covers the 19th century and is a bit more traditional and classic. It’s on the second floor where the colours and lines go wild.

If you have an hour or two to spare when sightseeing in Zagreb, please take my advice and go give our great national art some love.

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Modern gallery | Art & culture | Entrance adults Kn 20.00
Andrije Hebranga 1 | Lower town | +38514812599
Tue – Fri 10:00 – 18:00, Sat – Sun 10:00 – 13:00

The museum for Arts and Crafts is one of the most important national museums. Its permanent exhibition includes around 3000 displays on more than 2000 m2 of space.

There are collections of furniture, metals, textiles and fashion equipment, ceramics, sculpture, glass, watches, photography and photographic equipment, music instruments, graphic and industrial design, architecture, toys, painted skin, smoking equipment, paintings, ivory, typography which contains more than 100 000 items. They give you a look on development from Gothic period till art deco and changing in styles that reflects changing in times.

Besides the permanent exhibition, this museum always has exhibitions that attract many visitors. One of the most successful exhibitions was  “Secession in Croatia” a couple of years ago. One of the museums specials is Late Thursday: every Thursday this museum is open till 22:00.

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Museum for Arts and Crafts | Art & culture, Festivals & events | Adults Kn 30.00
Trg maršala Tita 10 | Lower town | +38514882110
Tue – Sat 10:00 – 19:00, Thu 10:00 – 22:00, Sun 10:00 – 14:00

If you take a stroll down the Ilica street, at one point you will come across a shop window so different from the rest of them, it would seem like you’re looking at an enchanted place. Welcome to the world of Saša Šekoranja.

Šekoranja’s a well-known Croatian artist and designer whose work never fails to amaze and inspire. Behind the little window in Ilica you’ll find his floral arts shop, but I never really felt the need to go beyond the enormous creativity displayed behind the glass. Šekoranja works mostly with flowers, but adds everything he needs to materialize his ideas: other plants, fabric, paper, wire, glass…  the final result is never plain and conventional.

There are people who dislike Šekoranja’s work and complain it’s overrated. Maybe. But you know what? If you don’t like it, just pass by. He won’t walk out of the store and force you to buy something. You can just watch and enjoy something highly aesthetic. After all, in a chaos of shop windows filled with clothes, shoes, make up, books, food and other prosaic products, it’s nice to be offered a visual experience equal to a little piece of heaven.

(Yes, on the photo the lights in the shop are turned off- go and check out the place yourself!)

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Saša Šekoranja | Art & culture, Shopping
Ilica 82 | Lower town | +38514847070
Mon – Fri 09:00 – 12:00, 17:00 – 19:00, Sat 09:00 – 12:00

The core of student life in Zagreb is the Student Centre, popularly known as SC (pronounce it as S-Tzay, otherwise people won’t get what you’re talking about). I’ll be honest – the main reason people go there is to eat, as it’s the biggest student restaurant in the city. But don’t give up on SC so quickly – there’s a bunch of structures besides the cafeteria where you can have fun, and you don’t have to be a local to do so.

First of all, there’s Teatar &TD, an experimental student theatre that gives quite attractive shows. Not your thing? Go see a movie or a photography exhibition – you can find your way through the complex using the legend on the big map hanging above the entrance.

My favourite part of everything this place has to offer are the concerts. The SC has brought a number of great bands to Zagreb, such as The Young Knives, Conor Oberst and The Mystic Valley Band, Handsome Furs, Animal Collective… nothing mainstream, but fantastic music.

The slogan of the SC is the one mentioned in the title – the culture of change, and that’s exactly what they do. Through good movies, alternative music scene and various amazing cultural festivals, they’ll do their best to open up your mind and show you there’s more to this society than you can see in the newspaper and on TV.

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Student Centre | Art & culture, Music, Theaters | Concert ticket Kn 80.00
Savska cesta 25 | Lower town
24 hours daily

Although there are many theatres in Zagreb, Gavella is by far my favourite one. I haven’t disliked even one play that I’ve seen there, and I’ve seen quite a few. Gavella is well-known and really popular; each of their shows is packed with people as the locals are very fond of this place. The name itself comes from dr. Branko Gavella, a great Croatian producer, theatrologist and theatre critic who was one of the theatre’s founders.

The productions are worth mentioning. Most of them are classics written by dramatists such as William Shakespeare, A. S. Pushkin, Mihail Bulgakov and Tennessee Williams; those are translated, adapted and then directed by famous Croatian and foreign producers. Each evening one show is being held, with occasional guest performances by various troops.

I know, writing about a theatre where shows are played in Croatian might not seem like a very smart thing when it comes to suggestions for foreign tourists. Nevertheless, I just couldn’t resist to dare you to do something new: go and see a play in a language you don’t understand. You’ll see, it just might end pretty well. After all, theatre isn’t all words- it’s about movement, facial expression, emotions. When the actors are good (and believe me, the ones in the Gavella ensemble know what they’re doing), you can get the idea no matter what language they speak, and feel their passion.

So go on- visit the Gavella theatre and have some fun.

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The Gavella theatre | Art & culture | Ticket Kn 60.00
Frankopanska 8-10 | Lower town | +38514849222
09:00 – 19:30 daily (box office)

Tvornica is a club/concert hall/coffee bar. During a day it is a regular coffee bar full of, mostly, students from the near by Faculty of Political Science. A couple of times a year some big shoe stores organise big sales in there.

But Tvornica didn’t earn its reputation by selling coffee or cheap shoes. Great concerts of so many famous and important musicians of our time, performances, dance shows… have made this place so special and unique on Zagrebian scene.

As a club, Tvornica hasn’t got a weekly program. Instead, from time to time, it pops up with something like Studio 54, a night dedicated to the disco music from the 70s. A few years ago this was a regular Friday night scheme (also one of the reasons of Tvornica’s popularity).

Nowadays Tvornica is focused more on making its own programmes instead of just repeating one week after week, so the full name of Tvornica, which is Tvornica kulture, meaning culture factory couldn’t be more true.

Some upcoming events:

20-02-10 Pakleni šund by Tomo Ricov | 22:00 | Tickets 40kn

06-03-10 Jura Stublić & Film | 21:00 | Tickets 70/80kn

13-03-10 Hugh Cornwell | 21:00 | Tickets 120/150kn

19-03-10 Belfast Food (St. Patrick’s Day) | 21:00 | Tickets 70/80kn

26-03-10 Esma Redžepova | 21:00 | Tickets 90/110kn

27-03-10 These New Puritans | 21:00 | Tickets 120/150kn

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Tvornica | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea, Music | Beer Kn 15.00
Šubićeva 2 | Lower town | +38517778673
Coffee bar 08:00 – 22:00 daily, Club 22:00 – 04:00