The Museum of Arts and Crafts is definitely my favorite museum in Zagreb (the fresh Museum of contemporary art still has to prove its worth over a longer period of time) because it’s the least static museum in Zagreb. Naturally, this is easier to be when you’re a museum of Arts and Crafts, still I’m amazed by everything that goes on in this building.

Since its founding in 1880 (making it one of the oldest of its kind in Europe) it has focused on reflecting life and the world around us in a realistic and relevant way, originally envisaged to preserve the traditions of old crafts and create a new aesthetics for the people it serves.

Nowadays, after 130 years of tradition, the Museum still holds its relevant position in the artistic and everyday life of Zagreb. With its constant exhibitions which range from musical instruments over architecture, design, photography to ceramic, painting, textiles and many more, but more importantly with ongoing events and exhibitions that reflect the current state of arts, crafts and events in Croatia.

Therefore it is no surprise for the favorite “MUO” to hold an exhibition dedicated to the cult Zagreb radio station “Radio 101″ to celebrate its 25th anniversary or have lectures with professionals on how to write project that receive grants from the EU. No matter what time of year you visit Zagreb, there will definitely be something worth seeing in MUO.

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Museum of Arts and Crafts | Art & culture | Entrance adults Kn 30
Trg maršala Tita 10 | Lower town | +38514882111
Tue – Sat 10:00 – 19:00, Sun 10:00 – 14:00

After the invasion of big corporations into the cinema industry Croatian old cinemas followed the route of I believe many old cinemas, at least in European tradition, that have reinvented themselves as specialized in certain “alternative” genres. One such story is the famous Kino Europa (check the Kino Europa article) in Zagreb.

Another one, not as famous but nonetheless equally interesting, is the creation of Dokukino Croatia – a cinema with only 37 seats. Ah, but beware dear film-lover, these seats are not your ordinary movie seats, rather comfortable sofas from which you can enjoy the best of the best documentaries.

Yes, Dokukino, as its name tells us specializes in documentary films and doesn’t screen any other genre, making it unique in itself. The cinema was reopened in 2009 by the initiative of Restart association and Croatia film company. Its purpose is to become the focal point of documentary-lovers’ gatherings, which is why the cinema organizes not only movie projections (both recent production and archive footage) but also talks with directors and various film workshops.

And yes, it does encompass a café in itself, where you can chill and talk movies. And documentaries.

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Dokukino Croatia | Art & culture, Cinemas | Entry Kn 20
Katančićeva 3 | Lower town | +38514813711
11:00 – 22:00 daily

The “Mosque”, as it is colloquially called by residents of Zagreb, has a very interesting history. It was built according to the designs of the famous sculptor Ivan Meštrović, since its initial purpose was for it to be a monument for the king Petar I. Instead of a statue on the square, it was voted that a building would be erected, which would house an arts museum.

It served as a museum for nearly 10 years, when it was turned into a mosque, with three minarets built around the site. Although it served as a mosque for only 5 years, the name stuck with the people, which is how it is still referred to.

During communism it served as the Museum of the National Revolution up until 1990, when it was returned to its original purpose and given back for use to the Croatian Association of Artists.

Nowadays, apart for housing exhibitions by prominent Croatian contemporary artists, the gallery hosts many visiting exhibitions, artistic manifestations and even concerts of experimental music. All in all, it is an interesting space to visit, either for the architecture of the place or the contents of its three galleries.

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Croatian Association of Artists | Art & culture | Entry Kn 15
Trg žrtava fašizma | Lower town | +38514811561
Tue – Fri 11:00 – 19:00, Sat – Sun 10:00 – 14:00

All jazz lovers coming by train won’t see much of Zagreb if they enter Bacchus. Situated less than 100m from the central train station, this bar offers food and drink for both body and soul, serving as a perfect welcome, farewell or just a quick resting place for an inquisitive wanderer.

A bar with history, a former legendary notorious hot spot and gay meeting point, reopened its doors in 2008. with a new concept, slowly regaining it’s undeservedly lost cult status. The first thing that one notices upon entering is the details.

Everything here is about details. Every time you look around you will notice something new, from numerous antique writing machines, gramophones, radios, television sets, car models and wardrobes to a trapped baby doll, yellow rubber duck and a shark gnawing on a disco ball, to name just a few. The counter itself is made of an old bookshelf filled with books, and you get the check in one of them.

Jazz is played Wed-Sat, and the programme can be checked on their web page. If the weather is nice, you can sit in the garden up front, which reminds of a grandma’s back garden, extremely pleasant and relaxing.

The wine list is rather short but carefully selected, featuring wines from Argentina, Chile, California, Republic of South Africa as well as Croatian pride and glory. Besides wines, they offer a great list of cocktails and rakija made with herbs, berries, sour cherries, honey, pear, myrtle, and even nettle.

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Bacchus Jazz Bar | Art & culture, Bars, Music, Relaxing | Wine bottle from Kn 110
Trg Kralja Tomislava 16 | Lower town | +38514922218
10:00 – 00:00 daily

One of my favorite places in Zagreb is definitely Booksa. Booksa is a book club, but you don’t have to be a member to enjoy everything this place offers (only, if you come there more than once, it’s advisable to sign up for their membership card). The catchy name comes from a slang – in Croatian “buksa” means prison. So, if you are “prisoner” of your love for literature you will feel like home here.

The atmosphere is very “homely” indeed – ordering drinks is a sort of self-service thing and after you sit back and relax on one of the cozy sofas you can feel free to take a look at various newspapers and literature magazines, even in foreign languages. This tobacco-free place delights all your senses because, once you enter, you are immediately surrounded by pictures or photos from local artists, good music and, of course, books.

You can run into a live concert, book presentation, some literature festival or one of many literature workshops held for its members. However, Booksa isn’t a standard bar – they serve alcohol only when mentioned manifestations are being held. “Soft” drinks, like coffee or tea are always attainable.

Booksa also offers lots of brochures and information about Zagreb cultural happenings. In that way, this book club is a perfect starting point for exploring the city.

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Booksa | Art & culture, Coffee & tea, Relaxing, Shopping | Caffe Latte Kn 9.00
Martićeva 14d | Lower town | +38514616124
Tue – Sun 11:00 – 20:00

Although Cinema Grič has existed as long as I can remember, it opened its fully redecorated interior in 2009. The front area is consisted of a colourful bar that has two floors and a small club situated in the basement.

The club is open Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. The entrance is free!

The whole three front floors are also used as a showroom for different art exhibitions and a meeting place for various book promotions and festivals. In the back area you can find a small but cozy projection room, where you can watch a film, depending on the current program.

The whole place is very appealing, full of color and charm. During evenings it is very crowded and dynamic which makes it an ideal place to start a promising weekend night out. Although this place looks like it has it all, the Club works until 02:00 so you are advised to continue your socializing and dancing in some other city center club.

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Klub Kino Grič | Art & culture, Bars, Cinemas, Music | Ticket price Kn 20.00
Jurišićeva 6 | Lower town | +38514834900
Cinema open Tue – Fri | Bar 07:30 – 23:00 daily

Prostor (Space, in English) is one of a kind store. In fact, it is not just a store, it is also a gallery. Its concept is to promote upcoming independent designers and artists. In this beautiful space, while you check out a selection of clothing and accessories that are made by Croatian craftsmen, as well as foreign, you can browse through cool art, comics, magazines and music.

The exhibitions change very often and are always accompanied by fun social events that expand to the store’s courtyard. Those gatherings are a boost to young and often anonymous people who want to share their creative ideas.

So, if you are interested in finding a unique store where you could learn and experience something new, inspiring and urban, drop in Mesnička street. The prices aren’t cheap but I guess that is what you could expect out of unique products. The staff is really nice and whether you are interested in buying something for you or your child or just picking up ideas for a new style this season you will have a pleasant time.

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Prostor | Art & culture, Shopping
Mesnička 5 (courtyard) | Lower town | +38514846016
Mon – Fri 12:00 – 20:00, Sat 10:00 – 15:00

If you happen to stay in Zagreb during Sunday, you should definitely visit the Antique and collectibles fair on British square. It is one of the Zagreb’s vivid symbols, always busy and full of people in search for a nice antique or a thoughtful present with a peculiar charm.

On rather sleepy Zagreb Sundays visiting this fair is a good way to experience a lively local gathering. Although the fair works until 14:00 hours, the best time for a visit is in the morning or around noon. After you look for some interesting and unique souvenirs, having a cup of coffee in the area of the Square is essential.

Personally, I love antique fairs and flea markets because, to me, it is a perfect way to experience local culture and traditions. A visit to such place gets you involved in a world of colour, antiques, kitsch, dusty books, shiny porcelain and scratched tin cups. Every item has a story and it’s hard not to feel fanciful in a surrounding like this.

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Antique fair on British square | Art & culture, Shopping | Free
Britanski trg | Lower town
Sun 08:00 – 14:00

The Museum of Street Art, like any other street art exhibition space, doesn’t have a permanent space or opening times for its exhibitions. Therefore, its current whereabouts could easily transform when you decide to visit Zagreb. Moreover, it represents the continuous dialogue between the artists, citizens and city’s authorities.

In 2010,  the Museum of Street Art initiative was taken under the supervision of internationally renowned Croatian artists and concluded one of its efforts by repainting the old graffiti-covered Branimirova street wall.

The idea of this project is to revitalize city’s everyday appearance and remodel the traditional sightseeing paths which usually end in front of the Museum of Modern Art.  The whole project itself is consisted of continous sporadic sub-projects. The first one, like I mentioned, was to repaint the Branimirova wall, which was successfully done. Lately, another project took place at Novi Zagreb, thanks to which the neglected Dugave area, along with its walls and facades, transformed into the new must-see street art hotspot. 

As far as I can tell, all the projects have been received with praise – the locals are overjoyed with the changes in their everyday surroundings and eagerly await new street art actions, as well as seeing how Zagreb transforms into more lively space of imaginative intersocial dialogue.

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Museum of Street Art | Art & culture, Relaxing
Kneza Branimira | Lower town
24 hours daily

It has been known that Zagreb has a Sun. Actually, a Grounded Sun, sculpture made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971. It changed a few locations over the years but it has been situated in Bogovićeva street since 1994.

The Grounded Sun has been a source of inspiration for many artists. Among them is a designer Davor Preis, who made an installation called Nine Views in 2004 – he placed nine models of planets (Pluto was still considered a planet at the time) all over Zagreb, which, along with the Kožarić’s Sun form a model of the Solar System. The planets’ sizes and distances from the Grounded Sun are in the same scale as the Grounded Sun itself.

The installation gained little publicity and most of the citizens of Zagreb aren’t even aware that they daily pass right besides Mercury, Venus, Earth and Mars, which are placed within the city’s center.

The locations of the planets are easy to ignore, especially the outer ones, which are hard to find without putting an effort. Zagreb Physics students were the first to organize a planet search-party, after which they revealed all their locations to the public.

If you’re interested to see those planets, have fun and REALLY get to know Zagreb, here are the planets’ locations:

Mercury – Margaretska 3; Venus – Trg bana Jelačića 3; Earth – Varšavska 9; Mars – Tkalčićeva 21; Jupiter – Voćarska 71; Saturn – Račićeva 1; Uranus – Siget 9; Neptune – Kozari put; Pluto – Aleja Bologne (underpass)

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Zagreb Solar System | Art & culture, Relaxing
Bogovićeva | Lower town
24 hours daily