The Museum of Arts and Crafts is definitely my favorite museum in Zagreb (the fresh Museum of contemporary art still has to prove its worth over a longer period of time) because it’s the least static museum in Zagreb. Naturally, this is easier to be when you’re a museum of Arts and Crafts, still I’m amazed by everything that goes on in this building.

Since its founding in 1880 (making it one of the oldest of its kind in Europe) it has focused on reflecting life and the world around us in a realistic and relevant way, originally envisaged to preserve the traditions of old crafts and create a new aesthetics for the people it serves.

Nowadays, after 130 years of tradition, the Museum still holds its relevant position in the artistic and everyday life of Zagreb. With its constant exhibitions which range from musical instruments over architecture, design, photography to ceramic, painting, textiles and many more, but more importantly with ongoing events and exhibitions that reflect the current state of arts, crafts and events in Croatia.

Therefore it is no surprise for the favorite “MUO” to hold an exhibition dedicated to the cult Zagreb radio station “Radio 101″ to celebrate its 25th anniversary or have lectures with professionals on how to write project that receive grants from the EU. No matter what time of year you visit Zagreb, there will definitely be something worth seeing in MUO.

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Museum of Arts and Crafts | Art & culture | Entrance adults Kn 30
Trg maršala Tita 10 | Lower town | +38514882111
Tue – Sat 10:00 – 19:00, Sun 10:00 – 14:00

After the invasion of big corporations into the cinema industry Croatian old cinemas followed the route of I believe many old cinemas, at least in European tradition, that have reinvented themselves as specialized in certain “alternative” genres. One such story is the famous Kino Europa (check the Kino Europa article) in Zagreb.

Another one, not as famous but nonetheless equally interesting, is the creation of Dokukino Croatia – a cinema with only 37 seats. Ah, but beware dear film-lover, these seats are not your ordinary movie seats, rather comfortable sofas from which you can enjoy the best of the best documentaries.

Yes, Dokukino, as its name tells us specializes in documentary films and doesn’t screen any other genre, making it unique in itself. The cinema was reopened in 2009 by the initiative of Restart association and Croatia film company. Its purpose is to become the focal point of documentary-lovers’ gatherings, which is why the cinema organizes not only movie projections (both recent production and archive footage) but also talks with directors and various film workshops.

And yes, it does encompass a café in itself, where you can chill and talk movies. And documentaries.

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Dokukino Croatia | Art & culture, Cinemas | Entry Kn 20
Katančićeva 3 | Lower town | +38514813711
11:00 – 22:00 daily

The “Mosque”, as it is colloquially called by residents of Zagreb, has a very interesting history. It was built according to the designs of the famous sculptor Ivan Meštrović, since its initial purpose was for it to be a monument for the king Petar I. Instead of a statue on the square, it was voted that a building would be erected, which would house an arts museum.

It served as a museum for nearly 10 years, when it was turned into a mosque, with three minarets built around the site. Although it served as a mosque for only 5 years, the name stuck with the people, which is how it is still referred to.

During communism it served as the Museum of the National Revolution up until 1990, when it was returned to its original purpose and given back for use to the Croatian Association of Artists.

Nowadays, apart for housing exhibitions by prominent Croatian contemporary artists, the gallery hosts many visiting exhibitions, artistic manifestations and even concerts of experimental music. All in all, it is an interesting space to visit, either for the architecture of the place or the contents of its three galleries.

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Croatian Association of Artists | Art & culture | Entry Kn 15
Trg žrtava fašizma | Lower town | +38514811561
Tue – Fri 11:00 – 19:00, Sat – Sun 10:00 – 14:00

In the first years of the 3rd millennium, prof. Carole Meredith discovered that grapes Zinfandel and Crljenak Kaštelanski have the identical genetic profile, therefore are the same sort. After a couple hundred more hours in the lab (i.e. wine cellar) she also discovered that the aforementioned Mr. Zinfandel had an affair with Mrs. Dobričić from the island of Šolta which gave birth to the little and much beloved Plavac Mali.

P.Z. Podšpilje (a farming cooperative) from the island of Vis produces excellent Plavac Mali, a quality dry red wine, which can be bought for ridiculously cheap prices in the centre of Zagreb. Although it seems very light and it slides down smoothly, do not be tricked by its apparent playfulness, this wine has 12.5% alcohol. Goes well with red meat, cheeses and oily fish. And Coke.

As its faithful companion, also from the wine growing hills of Vis, comes Vugava – a quality dry white wine. Vugava is made by grapes cultivated in Dalmacija since the Ancient times, when Vis was called Issa and when the Greek historian Agatharchides claimed that Vugava “is superior to every other wine whatever“. Today’s Vugava is a rather sweetish and fruitish wine, which lacks a bit of acidity. Nevertheless, beware of Vugava because it reaches up to 14% alc. content. Goes well with all fish and white meat.

Besides those two wines, available from huge barrels or bottled, one can also find some great grape rakija with herbs and vinegar, all from the island of Vis.

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P.Z. Podšpilje | Shopping, Snacks | Plavac mali Kn 15.00
Kralja Držislava 10 | Lower town | +3853776735
Mon – Fri 09:00 – 15:30, Sat 09:00 – 14:00

All jazz lovers coming by train won’t see much of Zagreb if they enter Bacchus. Situated less than 100m from the central train station, this bar offers food and drink for both body and soul, serving as a perfect welcome, farewell or just a quick resting place for an inquisitive wanderer.

A bar with history, a former legendary notorious hot spot and gay meeting point, reopened its doors in 2008. with a new concept, slowly regaining it’s undeservedly lost cult status. The first thing that one notices upon entering is the details.

Everything here is about details. Every time you look around you will notice something new, from numerous antique writing machines, gramophones, radios, television sets, car models and wardrobes to a trapped baby doll, yellow rubber duck and a shark gnawing on a disco ball, to name just a few. The counter itself is made of an old bookshelf filled with books, and you get the check in one of them.

Jazz is played Wed-Sat, and the programme can be checked on their web page. If the weather is nice, you can sit in the garden up front, which reminds of a grandma’s back garden, extremely pleasant and relaxing.

The wine list is rather short but carefully selected, featuring wines from Argentina, Chile, California, Republic of South Africa as well as Croatian pride and glory. Besides wines, they offer a great list of cocktails and rakija made with herbs, berries, sour cherries, honey, pear, myrtle, and even nettle.

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Bacchus Jazz Bar | Art & culture, Bars, Music, Relaxing | Wine bottle from Kn 110
Trg Kralja Tomislava 16 | Lower town | +38514922218
10:00 – 00:00 daily

Situated next to the Student’s Centre, this café is very popular amongst younger population. In line with its name, everything about it has a slightly artistic, yet tasteful, air. The chairs on the terrace are some old wooden chairs, usually no two of the same design, and the interior is filled with retro billboards and posters. The lights inside are dim, the music is blended in the background chitchatting noise, which combines into a very pleasant and cosy atmosphere.

Once there, it is advisable to enjoy a cup of great coffee, a pint of excellent beer or just some plain old cider (rare to be found in Zagreb). If you’re wondering whether you’ve come to the right place, you’ll know by the time it takes for the waiter (they’re called WAITers for a reason) to take and bring your order. Then again, in a place called “Godot”, that’s probably the point.

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Café Godot | Coffee & tea | Cider Kn 18.00
Savska 23 a | Lower town
07:00 – 00:00 daily

After being bought by Varta in the 90′s, this factory has expanded in the recent years and broadened their palette of products. Unfortunately, as the business got going, they closed the discount shop that was previously in the factory yard.

However, you can still go to the factory’s workshop (first building on the left once you enter the yard) and buy some freshly assembled batteries for almost half the price they’re sold in the stores. If you need to replace the old batteries from a device (such as wristwatch), they will do it free of charge, i.e. they will charge you only new batteries.

So, if you use a lot of gadgets, or like to do some photography – you’ll appreciate a backup set of (re)charged batteries. This is the place to get the stuff when in Zagreb.

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Croatia baterije | Shopping | 2500 mAh AA NiMH rechargeable Kn 30.00
Koturaška 69 | Lower town | +38516171211
Mon – Fri 07:00 – 15:00

One of my favorite places in Zagreb is definitely Booksa. Booksa is a book club, but you don’t have to be a member to enjoy everything this place offers (only, if you come there more than once, it’s advisable to sign up for their membership card). The catchy name comes from a slang – in Croatian “buksa” means prison. So, if you are “prisoner” of your love for literature you will feel like home here.

The atmosphere is very “homely” indeed – ordering drinks is a sort of self-service thing and after you sit back and relax on one of the cozy sofas you can feel free to take a look at various newspapers and literature magazines, even in foreign languages. This tobacco-free place delights all your senses because, once you enter, you are immediately surrounded by pictures or photos from local artists, good music and, of course, books.

You can run into a live concert, book presentation, some literature festival or one of many literature workshops held for its members. However, Booksa isn’t a standard bar – they serve alcohol only when mentioned manifestations are being held. “Soft” drinks, like coffee or tea are always attainable.

Booksa also offers lots of brochures and information about Zagreb cultural happenings. In that way, this book club is a perfect starting point for exploring the city.

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Booksa | Art & culture, Coffee & tea, Relaxing, Shopping | Caffe Latte Kn 9.00
Martićeva 14d | Lower town | +38514616124
Tue – Sun 11:00 – 20:00

Zagreb has a few Japanese restaurants but I must admit that I haven’t visited them yet, due to their budget-non-friendly price lists. Because of that, I personally welcomed the idea of opening of this relatively small sushi take away bar where you can choose from different varieties of Japanese delicacies. Besides sushi, you can order sashimi, miso soup, spring rolls and such. Everything mentioned is made by Chefs right in front of you.

MANZOKU sushi bar is situated in the city’s Centre and it won’t take you long to grab a few bites in the middle of your tour de Zagreb. It is good to know that you have a 20 % discount on sushi if you buy them between 13.00 and 14.00 hours and 30 % discount on the same goods between 19.00 and 22.00 hours. Their tastiness and lightness definitely serve the phrase „the more the merrier” – at least when it comes to indulging yourself with some food during nice city walks. After all, „manzoku” supposedly means „pleasure” in Japanese.

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MANZOKU sushi take away | Snacks, Restaurants (Japanese) | Futomaki Kn 8.00
Ljudevita Gaja 26 | Lower town | +38514851844
10:00 – 22:00 daily

Although Cinema Grič has existed as long as I can remember, it opened its fully redecorated interior in 2009. The front area is consisted of a colourful bar that has two floors and a small club situated in the basement.

The club is open Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. The entrance is free!

The whole three front floors are also used as a showroom for different art exhibitions and a meeting place for various book promotions and festivals. In the back area you can find a small but cozy projection room, where you can watch a film, depending on the current program.

The whole place is very appealing, full of color and charm. During evenings it is very crowded and dynamic which makes it an ideal place to start a promising weekend night out. Although this place looks like it has it all, the Club works until 02:00 so you are advised to continue your socializing and dancing in some other city center club.

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Klub Kino Grič | Art & culture, Bars, Cinemas, Music | Ticket price Kn 20.00
Jurišićeva 6 | Lower town | +38514834900
Cinema open Tue – Fri | Bar 07:30 – 23:00 daily