Having lived in Prague for 5 years, I’ve become addicted to stunning views. Upon return to Zagreb, I’ve spent nights looking for a view of the city that would give me that feeling – when you have the overview of the whole city beneath you and feel calm and privileged to be a part of it.

Zagreb’s topography, however, is completely different, without available hills on every corner and you really have to climb up to Medvednica mountain to get a view of the city. This was frustrating, until I realized I had to alter my expectations and that the view was right under my nose the whole time.

Maksimir park is a few minutes walk from the house I grew up in. In the centre of this beautiful park, there’s a small hill with a belvedere on top, standing proudly overlooking the main entrance. Here I’ve spent numerous afternoons having coffee in the sun with friends, after or before those long walks by the Maksimir lakes.

However, my favorite moments were by myself on a bench overlooking the main entrance, contemplating and realizing that I am indeed left with a beautiful view in front of my eyes. Completely different from the ones I was used to but with the same feeling – of peace and happiness.

So if you’re passing by at any time of year, feel welcome to sit next by, have a chat or simply be happy to belong to this place and time as well.

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Maksimir Belvedere | Coffee & tea, Relaxing | Free
Park Maksimir | Maksimir
24 hours daily

Svijet Stripa, meaning “Comic World” in Croatian used to be a cool neighborhood cafe where I sometimes enjoyed my afternoon coffee, surrounded by all the retro comics, it’s a place where you’d come to hang out by yourself and browse through the endless stacks reminiscing childhood .

Last spring, we discussed with a couple of friends how it would be a cool place to host acoustic gigs, just to find out that the same idea had occurred to the owner as well. So ever since then, you can find someone playing in “SS” every weekend and sometimes during the week. And I must say, it’s a great place for coming to enjoy a relaxing evening with friends or by yourself, and listen to some good music.

Another great thing about this place is that it is in a somewhat secluded street and the bar opens up with one whole wall onto the terrace, so no matter if you’re sitting outside or inside, you can hear the music. It also makes the air circulate, so it doesn’t get too hot or smoky inside.

It is definitely a spot to look out for, and I’m just hoping they have more surprises in store.

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Svijet Stripa | Bars, Coffee & tea, Music | Coffee w/milk Kn 9
Ožegovićeva 5 | Maksimir | +385994449567
09:00 – 00:00 daily

As far as I’m concerned – the best kebab place in town. The owner (Ali) used to work in a great kebab shop uptown but then moved to open his own place which has ever since been frequented by most of Zagreb’s kebab addicts (including the author of these lines).

Regardless of the weather conditions outside, the largest crowd gathers between 22:00 and 24:00 – it’s the munchies – when you have to wait up to 20 minutes in line outside. But every kebab expert knows that this sort of attendance guarantees nothing but the freshest meat!

The meat is usually mix of beef, veal and turkey; sometimes turkey and chicken – but one can never know in advance, and they’re not cheap on the quantity.

Extras are: mild or hot sauce (or mix of the two – possibilities are endless), lettuce, corn, tomato, onions, cheese (charged 3Kn extra) and RHCP. Although extras are free of charge (except cheese) always bear in mind that the more extras you put in your bread, the less meat you’re going to get stuffed in it.

p.s: Although they offer free delivery, they’re subcontracting it so it’s far from the same thing you get at the source of delight Making a personal visit is still worth while!

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Ali Ke Baba | Snacks | Kebab Kn 25.00
Martićeva 72 | Maksimir
Mon – Sat 10:00 – 00:00, Sun 16:00 – 00:00

At this place they don’t serve meat – they serve happiness! (Providing that you’re a hard-core carnivore like me, of course.)

A big cloud of irresistible mouth-watering scent floats around this place which makes it hard to miss – you just need to follow your animal instinct once you get close to it. Although it looks very modest from the outside (well, to be frank, from the inside also) it compensates with the quality of dishes available.

The interior is more often than not full of smoke from the grill, so do not wear your best clothes there First thing that you’ll see when you enter is pictures of the dishes hanging on the walls (which can help you decide what to order), a dozen of wooden tables with white linen tablecloths, and probably me, sitting at one of them, choking on uštipci, curd and onion.

Some of the specialities are:Mazalice (Minced meat spread on bread and grilled – hot!)Jetrica sa špekom (Chicken liver coated in bacon)Uštipci (Meat balls stuffed with hot pepper, bacon & cheese – my favourite – hot!)Kajmak (Curd – all of the aforementioned aren’t as half as tasty as when savoured with curd)

Important notice: Mazalice, gurmanska pljeskavica and baklava (sweet pastry with minced walnuts) are not on the menu so you will gain respect in the eyes of the waiter if you order them because only regulars know of them. This significantly shortens the waiting time

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Bistro MZ | Restaurants (Grill) | Dishes from Kn 30.00
Aleja Antuna Augustinčića 8 | Maksimir | +38512319179
Mon – Sat 10:00 – 22:00, Sun 10:00 – 16:00

I lied. A burek a day will probably get your blood vessels clogged in a matter of months and you’ll gain 20 pounds in no time. But (a crucial but) they’re irresistibly tasty so you can treat yourself with a fat burek once in a while, especially if you’ve been walking the whole day and you need to replenish your calories.

Bureks are usually sold in bakeries along with all the other dough products and they’re ok. But the burek discussed here is sold in a specialised burek booth on a green market called Kvatriæ and, as is most often the case, when somebody specialises in something, it’s usually top quality stuff.

When you lean on a small booth window, you can see the burek master stretching the dough to the incredible see-through thinness, then carefully spreading it onto the table and filling with one of the five possible fillings – minced meat, cheese, apples, spinach or potatoes. Then he puts it in the oven and 15-20 minutes later, fresh hot burek is ready just for you to either relish in a nearby cafe or to be cut and eaten at a small table for 2 in front of the booth.

Often strangers join the table and an interesting conversation is at hand (I once shared the table with the best Croatian sports journalist – one of the most interesting people I’ve met so far!)

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Vrući Burek | Snacks | Burek Kn 10.00
Šubićeva 40 a | Maksimir
Mon – Sat 07:00 – 17:00

For me Figaro is one of those „Cheers” spots, where everybody knows your name. Naturally, since I’ve been having my morning coffee there since the time I was old enough to have coffee and got addicted to it (a trait most Croatians have in common).

A local neighborhood cafe where you know exactly what time each person is going to come: my parents are among the early morning birds at 08:00, myself a bit later together with painter neighbor we talk life, art and everything connected around 10:00, 10:00 – 12:00 the high-school kids from the neighboring school who are either skipping classes or on their break…

Apart for the morning-coffee ritual, Figaro is a nice spot for a glass of wine in the evenings, on those nights one doesn’t feel like going downtown, but is still in the mood for a hangout with friends. Especially during the summer, when you can chill on the terrace with your glass of wine chatting to people at neighboring tables.

So in case you’re wandering around Maksimir neighborhood, stop by Figaro, and if you do so a couple of times, you can be sure the waiters will remember your order so in no time you will just have to show up and feel like one of the locals.

update: Figaro is now divided in half for smokers and non-smokers The usual crowd of smokers complained too hard so the owners gave in… welcome to Croatia  

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Figaro | Bars, Coffee & tea | Espresso with milk (L) Kn 9
Maksimirska 71 | Maksimir
08:00 – 23:00 daily

Legend Riders is a cafe where you can be sure every time you walk in you’re in for some good rock’n'roll, either music, or a spontaneous party that might develop.

The owner is one of the biggest Elvis fans I’ve met in my life, with an envious collection of quality music which is played usually from DVD’s on the big TV screen. He’s also kind enough to let his customers suggest music they are in the mood for, as long as it falls along the lines of Clapton, Satriani and other guitar masters.

Jazz and blues are also welcome. And if you’re there when he puts on the Elvis re-mastered 1977 DVD concert , be sure to stay, ’cause it’s quite probable he’ll pick up the guitar, play and sing, which is not to be missed.

It’s a perfect hangout place for weekday nights and easy Sundays or any other day you feel like good music, interesting people and conversations.

p.s. smoking allowed, naturally. 

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Legend riders cafe | Bars, Music | Beer Kn 12
Trg Bartola Kašića | Maksimir
08:00 – 00:00 daily