When a place has been going on since 1968 with more or less the same good vibe then there must be something to it. I must admit I haven’t been a regular visitor of the famous “Apple” until recently, but it’s never too late to join the club of faithful devoted followers – consequently I prefer Saturday nights in Jabuka which are conveniently united under the name of “Night of faith and devotion”.

All lovers of old school electro-pop and rock with a splash of newer artists will definitely enjoy this playlist.

Although some critiques have complained of Jabuka losing its alternative vibe in these modern globalized times I personally can only say that, not knowing what it had been like 20 or 40 years ago, it’s a place I always go to if I want to dance all night to something different than this year’s chart hits.

The program in Jabuka is more or less the same every week, which is also part of its charm – you can be sure that if you’re in a certain mood looking for something specific, it will provide. Fridays are reserved for Luna Park („Amusement park”) with a lighter note, while Saturdays are the notorious Night(s) of Faith and Devotion. Some nights also become theme nights connected to upcoming concerts in the area.

If you decide to go to Jabuka, don’t worry about what to wear – the place is as dark as it gets. So you can dance away without restraints. 

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Jabuka | Music | Entry Kn 25
Jabukovac 28 | Upper town | +38512441944
Fri – Sat 22:00 – 04:00

The Museum of Arts and Crafts is definitely my favorite museum in Zagreb (the fresh Museum of contemporary art still has to prove its worth over a longer period of time) because it’s the least static museum in Zagreb. Naturally, this is easier to be when you’re a museum of Arts and Crafts, still I’m amazed by everything that goes on in this building.

Since its founding in 1880 (making it one of the oldest of its kind in Europe) it has focused on reflecting life and the world around us in a realistic and relevant way, originally envisaged to preserve the traditions of old crafts and create a new aesthetics for the people it serves.

Nowadays, after 130 years of tradition, the Museum still holds its relevant position in the artistic and everyday life of Zagreb. With its constant exhibitions which range from musical instruments over architecture, design, photography to ceramic, painting, textiles and many more, but more importantly with ongoing events and exhibitions that reflect the current state of arts, crafts and events in Croatia.

Therefore it is no surprise for the favorite “MUO” to hold an exhibition dedicated to the cult Zagreb radio station “Radio 101″ to celebrate its 25th anniversary or have lectures with professionals on how to write project that receive grants from the EU. No matter what time of year you visit Zagreb, there will definitely be something worth seeing in MUO.

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Museum of Arts and Crafts | Art & culture | Entrance adults Kn 30
Trg maršala Tita 10 | Lower town | +38514882111
Tue – Sat 10:00 – 19:00, Sun 10:00 – 14:00

So this is the scenario: it’s Monday, one of the usually less interesting days of the week. You’re walking around downtown Zagreb not really looking for a crazy dance-party but not quite ready to go home yet. After all, who said Mondays should be just a dull beginning of the (work) week days.

If this happens, and you’re in the mood for a beer and some live music, not just Mondays, you can stop by this small and cozy bar on Mesnička street and be sure you’ll find what you’re looking for. Because in Tituš, every single day of the week you can be sure there’s gonna be at least someone playing the guitar (or an accordion, a violin or DJ-ing from real old-school vinyl records). Be it either local kids who want to practice their performance skills on thursdays (whoever wants to play at night) or a super professional artist, the atmosphere will always be the same: unpretentious, full of good vibes and music, music, music.

In Tituš, there’s never knowing who can stop by, pick up or bring an instrument and just have fun with it, spreading good energy among the crowd, backed up by the always friendly couple who runs the place (Marija & Davor) who do their job sincerely from the heart and it’s there for everyone to see.

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Tituš | Bars, Music | Beer Kn 15
Mesnička 47 | Upper town | +385917226065
Mon – Fri 08:30 – 02:00, Sat – Sun 19:00 – 02:00

After the invasion of big corporations into the cinema industry Croatian old cinemas followed the route of I believe many old cinemas, at least in European tradition, that have reinvented themselves as specialized in certain “alternative” genres. One such story is the famous Kino Europa (check the Kino Europa article) in Zagreb.

Another one, not as famous but nonetheless equally interesting, is the creation of Dokukino Croatia – a cinema with only 37 seats. Ah, but beware dear film-lover, these seats are not your ordinary movie seats, rather comfortable sofas from which you can enjoy the best of the best documentaries.

Yes, Dokukino, as its name tells us specializes in documentary films and doesn’t screen any other genre, making it unique in itself. The cinema was reopened in 2009 by the initiative of Restart association and Croatia film company. Its purpose is to become the focal point of documentary-lovers’ gatherings, which is why the cinema organizes not only movie projections (both recent production and archive footage) but also talks with directors and various film workshops.

And yes, it does encompass a café in itself, where you can chill and talk movies. And documentaries.

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Dokukino Croatia | Art & culture, Cinemas | Entry Kn 20
Katančićeva 3 | Lower town | +38514813711
11:00 – 22:00 daily

Park, music school, club, cathedral. Take your pick. If you’re into a walk in a park in the very heart of the city, here you go. If you want to learn how to play an instrument or sing, over there you go as well. And if you want to listen to those who have already learned how to play and sing, there you go again. All in the shade of the centuries old walls of the Zagreb cathedral.

Ribnjak is the name of the park where all this takes place. Although in my opinion there are nicer parks in Zagreb (Maksimir, Zrinjevac and its companions along the Lenuci’s Green Horseshoe) one cannot deny that Ribnjak has a special vibe to it, especially during the past couple of years and interesting initiatives such as the Park in Zagreb two-week long music festival at the beginning of every summer.

The name of the club in the middle of the park is “Purgeraj” which could be translated as the meeting point of true Zagreb folk (“purger” being a colloquial word for those whose family has lived in Zagreb for generations).

The music school is called “Rock Akademija” and offers classes of most instruments needed to form a rock-band.

Finally, an interesting and valuable fact is that the gas-station across the street from Ribnjak is open 24-7, if you’re in need of cigarettes or anything else in the center of Zagreb in the middle of the night.

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Ribnjak | Music, Relaxing | Free
Ribnjak | Upper town
24 hours daily

The “Mosque”, as it is colloquially called by residents of Zagreb, has a very interesting history. It was built according to the designs of the famous sculptor Ivan Meštrović, since its initial purpose was for it to be a monument for the king Petar I. Instead of a statue on the square, it was voted that a building would be erected, which would house an arts museum.

It served as a museum for nearly 10 years, when it was turned into a mosque, with three minarets built around the site. Although it served as a mosque for only 5 years, the name stuck with the people, which is how it is still referred to.

During communism it served as the Museum of the National Revolution up until 1990, when it was returned to its original purpose and given back for use to the Croatian Association of Artists.

Nowadays, apart for housing exhibitions by prominent Croatian contemporary artists, the gallery hosts many visiting exhibitions, artistic manifestations and even concerts of experimental music. All in all, it is an interesting space to visit, either for the architecture of the place or the contents of its three galleries.

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Croatian Association of Artists | Art & culture | Entry Kn 15
Trg žrtava fašizma | Lower town | +38514811561
Tue – Fri 11:00 – 19:00, Sat – Sun 10:00 – 14:00

Having lived in Prague for 5 years, I’ve become addicted to stunning views. Upon return to Zagreb, I’ve spent nights looking for a view of the city that would give me that feeling – when you have the overview of the whole city beneath you and feel calm and privileged to be a part of it.

Zagreb’s topography, however, is completely different, without available hills on every corner and you really have to climb up to Medvednica mountain to get a view of the city. This was frustrating, until I realized I had to alter my expectations and that the view was right under my nose the whole time.

Maksimir park is a few minutes walk from the house I grew up in. In the centre of this beautiful park, there’s a small hill with a belvedere on top, standing proudly overlooking the main entrance. Here I’ve spent numerous afternoons having coffee in the sun with friends, after or before those long walks by the Maksimir lakes.

However, my favorite moments were by myself on a bench overlooking the main entrance, contemplating and realizing that I am indeed left with a beautiful view in front of my eyes. Completely different from the ones I was used to but with the same feeling – of peace and happiness.

So if you’re passing by at any time of year, feel welcome to sit next by, have a chat or simply be happy to belong to this place and time as well.

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Maksimir Belvedere | Coffee & tea, Relaxing | Free
Park Maksimir | Maksimir
24 hours daily

In case you are into taking a silent walk around the upper town of Zagreb around midday, don’t be surprised if the silence will suddenly be interrupted at noon. Don’t be scared either, the city is not under siege, it is just the “Grič cannon” marking its usual noon activity.

According to the legend, the king Bela IV, who proclaimed Zagreb as a free royal city in 1094, left one cannon to the city of Zagreb and ordered that cannon to be in use every day so it wouldn’t get rusty. Officially, the cannon started its daily practice on January 1st 1877.

There is much more history to be told about the edifice where the famous cannon resides – the Lotrščak tower. It is one of the oldest standing buildings in Zagreb, the remains of the Romanesque old town walls and fortifications.

One of the interesting facts about the tower is that the city rented it out in times of peace in order to gain money for its maintenance and it was given back its defending purpose in times of peril. There are many stories about this oldest tower in Zagreb, but I will just say you should definitely visit the site to get more information.

In case you’re not so interested in history, visiting is worth it just for the amazing view from the top, which you can climb all the way up to. It’s definitely a special experience to be there right at noon when the cannon strikes.

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Lotrščak tower | Art & culture | Entry Kn 10.00
Strossmayerovo šetalište 9 | Upper town | +38514851768
Tue – Sun 10:00 – 19:00

One of the benefits of living back home is my mother’s cooking – I know it sounds really spoiled, but when you have someone making home-made delicacies every day with the freshest ingredients, you really feel no need for going out to eat. However, there’s one place in Zagreb I will definitely never turn down when it comes to dining out – Prasac.

The name itself can tell you what this restaurant’s philosophy is – it literally means “Pig”. The chef, Dino Galvagno, mixes Mediterranean cuisine with his own inventions, “twists” that he gives to every single dish that carries his signature. He also visits the nearby Dolac market every day in search of the freshest and most interesting ingredients, so the menu is subject to change every day.

But if you stumble upon the tuna steak on beans, be sure not to miss the opportunity and definitely try his homemade bread, which is made with yeast that he had developed and cultivated for months with extra special care. All in all, if you visit “Prasac” during bistro-lunchtime hours or want to enjoy an exquisite dinner, you are sure in for one wonderful gastronomic ride.

Just make sure you’ve made a reservation, because the place is tiny and widely popular. Also, during summer months, be sure to give them a call because it’s vacation season. Dobar tek!

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Prasac | Restaurants (Mediterranean) | 4 course meal Kn 250
Vranicanijeva 6 | Upper town | +38514851411
Mon – Fri 19:00 – 00:00, Sat 12:00 – 15:00 & 19:00 – 00:00

Svijet Stripa, meaning “Comic World” in Croatian used to be a cool neighborhood cafe where I sometimes enjoyed my afternoon coffee, surrounded by all the retro comics, it’s a place where you’d come to hang out by yourself and browse through the endless stacks reminiscing childhood .

Last spring, we discussed with a couple of friends how it would be a cool place to host acoustic gigs, just to find out that the same idea had occurred to the owner as well. So ever since then, you can find someone playing in “SS” every weekend and sometimes during the week. And I must say, it’s a great place for coming to enjoy a relaxing evening with friends or by yourself, and listen to some good music.

Another great thing about this place is that it is in a somewhat secluded street and the bar opens up with one whole wall onto the terrace, so no matter if you’re sitting outside or inside, you can hear the music. It also makes the air circulate, so it doesn’t get too hot or smoky inside.

It is definitely a spot to look out for, and I’m just hoping they have more surprises in store.

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Svijet Stripa | Bars, Coffee & tea, Music | Coffee w/milk Kn 9
Ožegovićeva 5 | Maksimir | +385994449567
09:00 – 00:00 daily