Music venues & clubs – All our local tips

From the outside, the Zähringer looks pretty inconspicuous. There’s not much that indicated that this is not quite an ordinary Café. But it is not quite an ordinary café. Beginning with the ownership: The Zähringer is self-governing, which means everyone who works there is partly owner and has a say in everything that happens. So the girl who serves you coffee there is basically part of the executive board.

The Zähringer is a good place to drink coffee, but also to eat lunch or dinner. If you care about the environment (and you should), you’ll like this: All things are freshly prepared and most of them organic. Most of them because the Zähringer-Collective favors regional products (even if not organic) over products that have traveled around the whole globe. Normally you can choose between a yummy vegetarian, a vegan and a carnivoric (yes, that’s how they call it) meal.

And there’s the cultural thing. The place started in the heated eighties and had a lot going on: Concerts, readings, exhibitions and so on. Now it’s a little calmer, but there are still cultural events several times a month. Interested? Stop by and check out the programme.

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Café Zähringer | Art & culture, Coffee & tea, Music, Snacks, Restaurants (Organic)
Zähringerplatz 11 | Kreis 1 City | +41442520500
Mon 18:00 – 00:00, Tue – Sun 08:00 – 00:00

The context:
Zurich’s Niederdorf: a couple of decades ago it was the focus of the city’s nightlife (that version of nightlife that ends around midnight). All tourists or newcomers would head to the Niederdorfstrasse by default. To be fair: the area is always a must. It is full of bars, cafes, restaurants, stores with expensive fashion clothing stores with original offerings (guess what the store called condomeria sells) or outdated business models like porno-cinemas.

The need:
I like live music establishments even when the music would not always qualify for my portable player. So ten years ago, as a newcomer to Zurich, I quickly spotted the casa bar during my explorative strolls in the Niederdorf.

The venue (born in 1958):
Imagine a wooden décor, a scene for the band to play, sofas along the walls, a bar area with some seats and, in between, space for standing (see photos). So if you like to sit, come around half an hour before the show. If you come much later, expect to stand in relatively small distance to the other standing guests. In plain words: it gets full even on Mondays. In the weekend it is packed.

The crowd:
Everybody could be there: the nerd with the jeans and the sneakers, the blond with the fur, me, you, etc. A bit of the sound escapes to the busy street so some curious by-passers step in for a quick glance.

The photos: click here.

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Casa Bar | Bars, Music | Orange juice CHF 9.00
Münstergasse 30 | Kreis 1 City | +41442612002
Sun – Thu 17:00 – 01:00, Fri – Sat 17:00 – 03:00

The Dynamo is Zurichs youth centre with a big range of cultural projects and workshops – an ideal place for creative, active youngsters. Music, Dance, Theatre, Graphics, Photo and Handcraft are what the Dynamo is all about. The place is supported by the city, which means that there is a lot going on and projects, that wouldn’t find sponsors get some financial support.

At the weekends there are parties and often concerts (mostly rock). Besides the main concert location in the Building, under ground there is also a kind of basement, the “Werk 21“, for more underground shows. Every Band can play here, no matter if they’re good or not. So if you want to see real local, real young (and sometimes really bad) Punkbands, check this place out. I even played there myself when I was in a punkband, and oh boy did we suck The crowd at these crowds is normally very alternative, so if you’re scared of tattoos and piercings then maybe they’re not made for you.

The Dynamo is right at the Limmat-River and there is a Café too. So even if you don’t feel like concerts or parties, you can have a coffee (or a beer) and enjoy the artsy atmosphere and (hopefully) the good weather besides the water.

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Dynamo | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea, Music, Restaurants (Mediterranean)
Wasserwerkstrasse 21 | Kreis 6/7 Fluntern | +41443653444
Restaurant Tue – Fri 10:30 – 19:00, Sat – Sun 11:00 – 19:00

Are you a pirate, a sailor, a pilgrim on the paths of Diego “el pibe de oro” Maradona, or a social revolutionary? No? Well, you’ll have to come to El Lokal anyway, because this is a one-of-a-kind-place.

Situated at the Sihl, a small stream, this Bar will make longing for the faraway. Like the Hafenkneipe nearby, the interior of El Lokal reminds you of docks, ships and the far far sea. But that’s only part of its charme: El Lokal is appointed with so many strange, cool and strangely cool objects that you can discover something new every time you visit. Especially in the men’s toilet (I don’t know about the women’s, for obvious reasons): A room full of captivating pictures, I look forward to peeing every time I’m in El Lokal. Seriously.

The owner seems to be obsessed with Che Guevara, Elvis and Diego Maradona (who you can admire on the tv-screens from time to time). The screens are good for something else too: important Swiss football games are shown in El Lokal. If you wanna be part of it, be in time, it’s usually very crowded.

What else does the place have to offer? There is a small stage for concerts (the music-booker has taste), and you can eat Mediterranean inspired food – the tapas are drop dead delicious. Now winter is fading away, and the great days of sitting outside next to the stream are beginning again. It’s the best.

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El Lokal | Bars, Coffee & tea, Music, Snacks | Beer CHF 4.80
Gessner-Allee 11 | Kreis 1 City | +410433448750
Mon – Thu 10:00 – 00:00, Fri 10:00 – 02:00, Sat 14:00 – 02:00, Sun 14:00 – 00:00

Exil is the club to go crazy at these days. Being from Zurich, you can’t truly call yourself hip if you haven’t had a minimum of one wild night at the Exil or at least pretend to have had one. Being in there, feels like being underground. Kind of like being in one of those party rooms in your teenage years, but very much more wicked.

I suggest the EXILENCE nights, where only the best of black music is played or performed live. Those nights, the club is overfilled, sweaty, loud and sexy. If you want to fit in perfectly, wear red lipstick or, male version, a gangster hat à la Léon the Professional from Luc Besson. For all those, who are sick of hopping around to the great (great!) music, or too cool to hop at all (quite common at parties like these!), there’s a smaller room, all in red that makes everyone look ten times better than during the day.

You can be sure that you won’t be leaving before 6 am and at 6 you’ll be just in time for the first trams to run, but probably so exhausted, that you’ll just throw yourself into the next completely overpriced taxi.

There are also other great parties and concerts at the Exil. No matter what music you like, they’ll have something in store for you. Check the program on the website.

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EXILENCE | Bars, Music | Entrance from CHF 10.00
Hardstrasse 245 | Kreis 5 Industrie
Check the website for opening times

I like places with which I can associate a color. If you have read my other articles: Mata Hari Bar (check the Mata Hari Bar article) is red, Paddy Reilly’s (check the Paddy Reilly’s article)is green. And then you may also have noticed that I like several restaurants near Stauffacher. So now I add one more spot from this area and, at the same time, one more color to the collection.

It is yellow and is located at the intersection of the Langstrasse and Badenerstrasse. Being within walking distance from Mythos (check the Mythos article) or Le Cèdre (check the Le Cedre article), it is a favorite “next destination” after a dinner.

It is called the Forum and for my intents and purposes it is a lounge-bar.

So once again, I find things I like: Sofas, located in the middle enabling a panoramic view of the venue and its visitors, a humidor, music at the right volume; conversation is possible. A mostly young (in the broader sense of the term) public adds a cool flare reminding me of the cliché from my student years: “there is always something going on there”.

If you go during the summer, you can sit outside and watch the crowds enjoying an evening out in the city. However, the big sliding doors would be open on a warm evening so even from inside you would feel being a bit outside.

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Forum | Bars, Music, Restaurants (Intern.) | Orange Juice CHF 5.50
Badenerstrasse 120 | Kreis 4 Aussersihl | +41432438888
Mon – Fri 08:00 – open end, Sat – Sun 10:00 – open end

Für Dich – meaning ‘for you’ – has already earned its name by becoming the favourite haunt for its neighbourhood since its launch in September 2008. Several regulars have even gone as far as getting an anchor tattoo done in homage to the anchor hidden in the café’s logo (it also happens to be the symbol for Aussersihl, the district in Zurich where the bar is located). It’s a great bar because it’s located right next to Bäckeranlage and because for once in Zurich, you get a feeling of spaciousness.

The four founders did the entire renovation itself, from planning to building and furnishing, which took them six months in total to complete. This allowed time for some spontaneous decisions, such as leaving one wall bare after the tiles were removed or adding gold foil to another.

The result is an open, spacious, rather simple venue with large windows – it was a shop in its previous incarnation – which nevertheless radiates warm

th due to a preponderance of wood (floor, bar, tables and chairs) and the red children’s corner with a huge blackboard that turns into a comfortable lounge area at night. This is definitely a place to linger, chat and feel at home and a few times per month there are bands playing (unplugged) there as well.

Saturdays and Sundays are dedicated to breakfast: On Saturday you get the choice between for different kind of morning meals and on Sunday you’ll find an all you can eat buffet with pancakes, bread, jam, cereal, cake and pies.

The café is now also a small pension, where you’ll find three rooms, starting at CHF 120 for two people.

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Fuer dich | Bars, Music | Sunday brunch CHF 20
Stauffacherstrasse 141 | Kreis 4 Aussersihl | +41433179160
Mon – Thu 09:00 – 00:00, Fri – Sat 09:00 – 02:00, Sun 10:00 – 20:00

I’m sure you’ve heard at least one famous band say they missed the old days, when they could play in smaller venues. The Hafenkneipe is exactly the kind of club they’re talking about!

Reopened three years ago with a new, music-heavy, concept (for ten years the place was a techno club) it’s already famous for its intense and intimate live-concerts. At least once a week (mostly mondays) there is a show, mostly Indie-Rock, Grunge, Folk, Singer-Songwriter-Stuff and anything to do with Punk.

The venue has space for 100 people, so it’s not only very tight, good acts are sold out pretty quickly. So Make sure to check out the program on their website soon enough. Because, if you like sweaty, unforgettable concerts this place is definitely for you.

When there’s no live music, the Hafenkneipe is a regular Bar and still very worth visiting. In the “Dockland pub”, as the English translation would be, you’ll find corner banks porthole-lamps and bright blue walls that make you longing for the sea.

One little downer: the location gets very very hot and smokey because of its bad air supply (or lack thereof). But not for long any more: In may a law that prohibits smoking in bars becomes effective in Zurich. Until then, if you tend to have breathing trouble, consider bringing a respirator to the concerts

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Hafenkneipe | Bars, Music | Beer CHF 4.80
Militärstrasse 12 | Kreis 4 Aussersihl | +410433220282
Tue – Thu 17:00 – 01:00, Fri 17:00 – 02:00, Sat 20:00 – 02:00

This is a wonderful café, whose owners have devoted themselves to celebrate the art of coffee making. Entering is almost like coming home. You’ll feel comfortable the second you step in.

Throw yourself onto one of the couches or find a seat at a rustic wooden table. In the menu you’ll find a huge variety of classic and innovative coffee creations.

If you’re hungry, you have to try a freshly made tarte flambee (Flammenkuchen), a speciality from Alsace. And then start observing the scene. The Henrici is a place where the so-called Niederdorf Originale, people that have lived in Zurich’s old town forever (quite an eccentric crowd), meet with their usually over-fed and rat-like dogs.

It’s a place, where you’ll see grey-haired men, taking notes with old-fashioned fountain pens. A place, where students debate between piles of books, where construction workers check out whatever female is passing by and where young trendy mums are busy keeping the volume of their kids to an agreeable level. If you’re lucky, you might even walk into an amazing (and free!) jazz concert.

This is one of these places you can bring your dad or your super cool DJ friend to and both will like it just as much. The Henrici is full of life, just like a café should be!

Extra tip: The paintings on the wall are from Tika, a street artists whose art you’ll find all over town. Keep your eyes open: http://www.myspace.com/tika_tgs

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Henrici | Bars, Coffee & tea, Music, Snacks | Classic tarte flambee CHF 16.00
Niederdorfstrasse 1 | Kreis 1 City | +41442515454
Mon – Thu 08:00 – 00:00, Fri – Sat 08:00 – 02:00, Sun 10:00 – 22:00

La Catrina calls itself the first real Mexican bar in Zurich although you won’t find any sombreros and ponchos. It’s a tiny place but every Thursday manages to squeeze in a band and often, there are also life concerts on Tuesday.

La Catrina also opens its doors on Sunday now, with sounds from groups and artistes in Switzerland – on the jukebox or with DJs. And if you like what you hear, you can buy the album with your next drink at the bar.

I came across La Catrina because a good friend of mine was hosting his birthday party there. Before that I wasn’t even aware of this venue as it lies a bit hidden in a side street. The bar is really small but has a great atmosphere. Skulls and dolls are omnipresent but make the crammed space very cosy (which you wouldn’t expect when you read the word ’skulls’). The list of served drinks is long but their specialities are, of course, first class tequila and margarita.

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La Catrina | Bars, Music | Concerts from CHF 00.00
Kurzgasse 4 | Kreis 4 Aussersihl | +41787711346
Mon – Thu 18:00 – 01:00, Fri 18:00 – 03:00, Sat 19:00 – 03:00, Sun 18:00 – 00:00

The Maier’s is a little Mekka for cultural events a bit offside the centre of Zürich. Month after month,they have a packed program with many kinds of things: comedy, cabaret, plays, bands, solo artists, dance performances, choirs and so on. You can find pretty special/interesting stuff too, like improv theatres or singalong-performances (whatever that exactly is).

But I have to admit, I haven’t been to the theatre-room in the back of the place a lot. Except when there were Slam Poetry-championships, which really rocked. Anyway, what I wanted to say: There is also a Bar, where you can hang out before or after a performance or just because, as I do from time to time, because I like the atmosphere.

If you want to have lunch, maybe this is the wrong place for it,  but they have tapas to satisfy your little hunger. Check it out!

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Maier’s Theater | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea, Music, Theaters
Albisriederstrasse 16 | Kreis 3 Wiedikon | +41438186565
Open when there’s an event, from 18:00

This club just by the lake is part of a building full of history. It was built at the turn of the century – which makes it one of the oldest clubs in Switzerland. From the thirties on it was a famous place for Swing and Jazz, Show- and Dance-orchestras. Then came the eighties, the time of Laser-Light, Vinyl and DJ’s, the mascotte was the most popular location in town.

There were a lot of style and owner-changes, several in the last fifteen years, where the place lost a bit of its glamour: For a short time the place became “Café Grössenwahn” with mainstream-partys, then the fantasy-themed “Paradise”. Now, since 2004 it’s called mascotte again and the owners try to build on the success of the eighties – with a widespread program (English speakers: check out Funny Laundry) and good concerts.

And that’s why I like it so much: the concerts. While the clubbing is a bit on the fancy side, which is okay but not really my cup of tea, there are many many good concerts in the Mascotte. And if you like rock, you should pay a visit on a Tuesday, when it’s “Karaoke from Hell” time. A band that lets people of the audience sing their favourite rock, punk, metal-Hits while the band plays along.

Fun-Fact for German speaking people: Schlager-Singer Udo Jürgens lives in the building.

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Mascotte | Bars, Music | Beer CHF 5.60
Theaterstrasse 10 | Kreis 1 City | +41442601580
Opening times depending on the party (check out the programme)

The Langstrasse neighborhood is gradually getting rid of its red-light character and is becoming the new trendy quarter in Zurich. Upon moving to Zurich 9 years ago, I was told to avoid the area by night. Nowdays a seat at a restaurant or an apartment for rent are objects of desire.

After a dinner in the area, the Mata Hari bar is a good final destination. The bar is conveniently located near Limmatplatz.

“It is sooo red” will be your first and most dominant impression. I don’t know if this intense redness is a tribute to the district’s reputation but I find it very tasteful.

Rock music plays in the background. Having grown up in the 70s with Deep Purple and Pink Floyd, the sound matches my taste but, 30 years later, I appreciate its moderate volume: conversation in Mata Hari is possible without screaming at each other’s ear.

The (red) sofa area feels very relaxing. It is also possible to sit at the bar or at elevated tables nearby (see photos).

The area behind the bar is another highlight; I find it quite elegantly designed.

The public is young, casual and unpretentious. Prices are reasonable. Drinks are served only at the bar.

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Mata Hari | Bars, Music, Relaxing | Juice CHF 8.00
Langstrasse 237 | Kreis 4 Aussersihl | +41432052250
Mon – Thu 17:00 – 03:00, Fri 17:00 – 04:00, Sat 19:00 – 04:00

Zurich’s district of Wipkingen is waking up. Its latest addition, the bar and restaurant Nordbrücke, is just beside the local train station and is great for Saturday afternoons. Buy your fresh vegetables, fruit and flowers at the nearby stall and then spend the rest of your time enjoying a beer or a coffee in the former train station buffet, while you watch people pass by. It’s a place to go for drinks or coffee, but also a good address to get some food.Open since March 2008, it seems the sheer volume of clientele and the variety of people visiting proves that the concept has hit the spot. Combining old (they simply varnished the nicotine-stained walls, kept the tables and chairs, and added comfort with Biedermeier sofas) with new (a blue/green fitted bar and new lighting system), the venue still has an air of train station buffet, but with a contemporary feel.

The big windows are great for people spotting and have recently been unveiled after a lifetime behind net curtains. The result of the gentle makeover is a charming and comfortable bar in which you immediately feel at home. It’s a place where you sense the past, making it feel somehow more real than many of today’s cloned modern, trendy bars.

In winter, the terrace and garden are not much use but the comfy interior as well as the diverse lunch menu make up for this. The menu alsways includes a vegetarian as well as a lactose-free dish.

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Nordbrücke | Bars, Coffee & tea, Music, Restaurants (Swiss) | Lunch from CHF 17
Dammstrasse 58 | Kreis 10 Wipkingen | +41442710177
Tue – Thu 07:30 – 01:00, Fri 07:30 – 02:00, Sat 09:00 – 02:00, Sun 09:00 – 23:00

Zurich’s opera house, located centrally near the lake, has enjoyed rising reputation since Alexander Pereira became director in 1991. The present building was inaugurated in 1891 with a production of Wagner’s Lohengrin.

Famous names like Agnes Baltsa, Cecilia Bartoli and Thomas Hampson sing in Zurich.

Count with at least 2-3 Verdi operas per season as well as several more exotic pieces of work.

And of course: a taste of Wagner every year.

The current director was originally no fan of subtitles and a thorough study of the libretto was mandatory before a visit. A few years ago he was finally convinced and now there are German subtitles even for German operas.

The prices vary erratically depending primarily on the seat category. There are very good seats going for CHF 38.00 (twice the price of a cinema ticket). Reserve in advance and save 90% off the most expensive seats without sacrificing artistic pleasure. Chances are good that you would move to a more expensive empty seat once the lights go down.

After a première you can enjoy an informal banquet at the central stage and mingle with artists and members of the national government.

The dress code is informal: you can go with jeans.

My tip for the current season (2009-10): Salome of Richard Strauss

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Opernhaus Zürich | Art & culture, Music | Entrance from CHF 15.00
Falkenstrasse 1 | Kreis 8 Seefeld | +41442686400
Opening times depending on the particular production

Pur pur is a place with two faces. In the warm season you chill out on the terrace outside. At other times, you can relax in the oriental setting inside during the early hours but as the evening progresses, the venue turns into a night club with beautiful people and loud music (see photos).

The terrace has two sections. The front side, along Seefeldstrasse, is the “see and be seen” area where seeing really means “(people) watching”: something like the after-work drink for the professional crowds in their thirties.

If you are lucky you get to sit on the little sofa at the edge. The side terrace feels quieter: a place for focusing on the person you are with. The tables are decorated with nice red candlelight.

During major football events, there are two TV screens outside, one in the front terrace and one in the back. During the Euro 2008, the former had a visible region of dead pixels (which probably means the crowd didn’t really care about football).

Inside the venue you get to sit on pillows and smoke the hookah to get in some “1000+1 nights” mood. The first thing you notice when you find a nice free spot to sit is the little paper note telling from which time the spot is reserved for others. But there is usually enough time to enjoy an evening drink.

From the snacks, try the tartar. From the non-alcoholic cocktails I like the frullato.

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Pur Pur | Bars, Coffee & tea, Music, Snacks | Non-alcoholic drink CHF 12
Seefeldstr.9 | Kreis 8 Seefeld | +41444192066
Mon – Thu 11:00 – 02:00, Fri 11:00 – 04:00, Sat 14:00 – 04:00, Sun 14:00 – 02:00

The Rote Fabrik is one of the bigger cultural centres in Zurich. As the name implicates, the building-complex once was a factory.

Music is a big thing here, there are over 100 concerts, partys and festivals every year. Now, if you know me (respectively my texts on this site) you’ll expect that there’s mainly rock music. Wrong. Hip-Hop, Reggae, Soul, R’n'B, Worldbeat, Folk and Jazz are equally as important. The people in charge characterize their program as “music from aficionados for aficionados”, speak: stuff that’s good but not necessarily mainstream.

But there’s not only the music, there’s a theatre, there are a lot of readings, sometimes panel discussions, a Bar to have a drink and Restaurant where you can eat really well. Oh yeah, I almost forgot: The Rote Fabrik is located right at the lake… which is nice.

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Rote Fabrik | Art & culture, Bars, Music, Snacks, Theaters, Restaurants (International)
Seestrasse 395 | Kreis 2 Enge | +41444855858
Restaurant Tue – Thu & Sun 11:00 – 00:00, Fri – Sat 11:00 – 01:00

20 years ago Zurich had the reputation of a lame place. The saying went: “only the Niederdorf has some life until midnight”. Things have changed. Maybe Zurich is not yet “the city that never sleeps” but it certainly goes to bed late. The Niederdorf, the old-town stretch running parallel to the Limmatquai, has lost its nightlife monopole but has certainly followed the trend: “there is a lot happening there”, especially during the weekend.

Splendid Bar, located at an alley near the river, recently celebrated its 33rd birthday. It is housed at the lobby of the small Hotel Splendid. The bar pianist (not always the same one) is at the epicenter of attention. Often he is only English speaking and sings, guess what, in the English language. Over the years I have heard the piano versions of “Hotel California”, “The House of the Rising Sun” and “Smoke on the Water”. You get the idea. Several guests cluster around the piano, follow the tune with body movements and occasionally sing along.

The public spans a wide range of ages and nationalities. There are regulars and passers-by, coming for a drink before going to a club or moving on with bar hopping.

If you don’t like standing: there are some tables at the perimeter and seats at the bar. Notice the decoration with photos of several jazz artists.

The limited space favors starting a conversations with other guests.

Here are some photos.

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Splendid – Piano Bar | Bars, Music | Orange juice CHF 9.00
Rosengasse 5 | Kreis 1 City | +41442525850
Sun – Thu 17:00 – 02:00, Fri – Sat 17:00 – 04:00

Although Gessnerallee has been the home of avant-garde theatre in Zurich for more than twenty years, its foyer became Stall 6 – a thriving bar and club – just four years ago. The former stable appeals to those looking to avoid the clichés and genres of Zurich’s nightclubs; and it promises new ideas, a few of which will be realised this year.

Banishing clubbing stereotypes in Zurich is tough, yet the varied music styles at Stall 6 mean the club has no set clientele and is one of the few places in Zurich where you never feel out of place no matter what you wear. The organisers are also not interested in a set concept for the club. It’s therefore possible to find reggae on a Monday, funk and soul on weeknights, and electro at the weekend. Alternatively, grab a programme and seek out a Hum Rush party, where you’ll hear all music styles in one night.

Situated in the foyer of Gessnerallee, Stall 6 makes a feature of elements of its past, when the building belonged to the military – such as the horse’s feeding troughs. With visitors ranging from theatregoers to night owls, the audience is constantly changing and the place is never empty; you can even start clubbing at 23:00 if you like, as you’re unlikely to walk into a deserted club.

Sometimes installations from the theatre make their way over to Stall 6, adding to its unique atmosphere, and the generous space offers ample room for groups to arrive at any time without a reservation.

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Stall 6 – Gessnerallee | Art & culture, Bars, Music | Concert CHF 25.00
Gessnerallee 8 | Kreis 1 City | +41442258154
Daily from 17:00

An international dance festival featuring crews from all over the world: Brazil, Belgium, Switzerland, Great Britain, South Africa, Holland, USA, Israel, Germany. They are all doing contemporary dance but interpreted very differently. There’s an incredible spectrum of forms and styles !

The shows are all over Switzerland, in different cities and locations and often they are accompanied by great live music. An inspiring happening for all dancers, all those who would like to be dancers and also those that just love watching dancers and want to be catapulted into a different culture for a few hours.

My Tipp: Bruno Beltrão & Grupo de Rua from Brazil, performing HipHop in the structure of contemporary dance.

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Steps #12 | Art & culture, Music, Festivals & events | Entrance from CHF 20.00
Different places (check website for details) | Kreis 1 City
22. April – 13 May 2010 (check website for program)

“So where do we go now?” you asked your companion(s) that Saturday evening after dinner; it somehow felt too early to call it an evening and you had something like a bar with music in mind.

Or maybe you felt like having a tea or a snack that Saturday afternoon after shopping?

Read my other articles to get plenty of ideas for such occasions. Read this one to know a place that offers all in one for you: Café Terrasse.

The special thing about Café Terrasse is that there is nothing special about it: it is an excellent choice for all occasions. Centrally located near Bellevueplatz, the venue is open from early till late: for a snack, a complete meal, a tea, a late drink, inside or outside, with or without music.

There is a big central area with tables and plenty of light during daytime for the bourgeoisie that wants to feel pampered with a bit of luxury: yes, the moment of truth is when that big tea portion you ordered arrives.

Lights are dimmed later on and the mood adapts accordingly.

The outside: a garden terrace for the warm season, Zurich style (flip flops and tattoos on those areas of the body that can be decently exposed). For some intimacy, there is a small balcony terrace on the side of the river.

Last but not least: a bar area with a younger (or younger feeling) public and the appropriate (electronic) music. Sounded like house last time.

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Terrasse Café | Bars, Coffee & tea, Music | Espresso CHF 6.20
Limmatquai 3 | Kreis 1 City | +41442511074
Mon – Tue 10:00 – 01:00, Wed – Sat 10:00 – 02:00, Sun 10:00 – 00:00

I have always had a love-hate relation to jazz. I understand nothing about it. I cannot name any artists or tell it apart from soul, blues etc. And all jazz sounds the same to me.

But I love jazz bars. Many years ago I discovered the “Gig”, a small hot smoky jazz club in the Müllerstrasse. The artists were not internationally famous (probably) but little bands, sometimes local ones (luckily, because I wouldn’t be able to tell the difference). Then the Gig moved to a new location in the Fraumünsterstrasse; from the red light district to the business district. Same faces, same concept: no entrance fee, no overpriced drinks, just voluntary tipping. Guests could order from the Italian restaurant next door and consume while listening to music. And then, a couple of years later, the Gig closed; a sign was pointing to the Trattoria & Soul in Seefeld, a going-out district.

Trattoria and Soul brings me back (mentally) to the Gig. The environment has evolved: it is more bourgeois than underground and a bit more luminous but is very pleasant anyway. Live music plays only on Thursday and Friday from October to May; for a couple of hours starting at 21:00. There is a rich artist repertoire that changes weekly. You can enjoy the music with bar-food or just a drink and/or a cigar from the humidor.

At other times you are in a very nice Italian restaurant. In the summer there are tables outside.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Trattoria & Soul | Coffee & tea, Music, Relaxing, Snacks, Restaurants (Italian)
Seefeldstrasse 5 | Kreis 8 Seefeld | +41442525212
Mon – Fri 11:00 – 02:00, Sat 17:00 – 02:00, Sun 17:00 – 00:00

The blond asked for the bill and turned to me: „so shall we go for another drink? Let’s try the Widder bar. It’s only a few minutes from here”.

I agreed. We crossed the Bahnhofstrasse, entered the Augustinergasse and headed for the Widder hotel with its famous piano bar. We sat centrally at a small table.

“What can you tell me about this place?” I asked her. “Oh, I’ve been here only three times”, she replied while performing the feminine ritual of lighting a cigarette. “As you can see, there is a pianist but sometimes they have concerts. And the whiskies are excellent (but you probably don’t care anyway)”, she continued. My hands caressed the camera in my bag but I felt I wasn’t ready; so I went on with the smalltalk: “seven years ago, when I first came, the lights were bright, it was almost empty, there were only senior citizens”, I remarked. “I like it better now, the lights are dimmer, the crowd is more diverse, it has character“.

The waiter came: she ordered a Caipirihna (19 CHF), I stuck to the usual: Espresso (6.50 CHF), what else? “Do you really have concerts?” she asked him. “Yes”, he said, “on Tuesdays, yesterday we had Flamenco, I bring you the program”.

The pianist was singing: “a mihna saudade, o meu amor”. She asked him for a song. He sang it after his break and she whispered along.

It became more crowded as the evening progressed.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Widder piano bar | Bars, Music | Tuesday concert CHF 45
Widdergasse 6 | Kreis 1 City | +41442242988
Mon – Wed 11:30 – 01:00, Thu – Sat 11:30 – 02:00 , Sun 11:30 – 00:00