Relaxing & parks – All our local tips

Zürich is surrounded by several hills. On the northwestern side we have the Hönggerberg, offering great panoramic views of the city and hosting several buildings of the famous Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (ETH).

The forest at the northwestern side of the Hönggerberg is my family’s favorite hiking tour. It is our destination during those exceptional occasions that I accept to skip the lake and seek different colors. It offers the feeling of being deep in nature despite being officially within city limits.

Our most unforgettable visits took place during the exceptional autumn of 2006 when the weather remained persistently sunny, mild and dry until December. The leaves suffered a slow death on the trees for the pleasure of our eyes. In Hönggerberg this resulted in a prolonged lavish orgy of colors (see photos).

So autumn is the best time to go. You will be rewarded with a pleasant spectacle of green, yellow, orange and red.

Beautiful mushrooms complement the scenery. If you collect any, make sure you bring them to the appropriate authority for control before eating them.

For the lazy ones (like me): take public transportation to Grünwald and head into the forest through Grünwaldstrasse. Sometime later you will end up descending into inhabited areas.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Hönngerberg | Relaxing
Grünwald | Kreis 10 Wipkingen
Autumn is the best

Le Cèdre Bellevue is the young brother of Le Cèdre at Badenerstrasse (see the Le Cedre article). It opened in April this year, apparently to fill in some gaps that the original venue left open. It is managed by the (younger?) brother of the charmeur who rules the place in Badenerstrasse.

The difference between the two restaurants can be best summarized in two words: location and occasion.

About the location: the new restaurant is located more near the city center, the river and the lake. Most importantly, it has a big terrace.

For which occasion(s)? Here are some examples: a lunch if you are working in the area or visiting Zurich, an outdoors dinner during a warm evening, a snack for reacting to hunger after a swim nearby. So if the original place is ideal for a special experience, to be planned and savored in each detail, the new venue is mostly chosen after spontaneous decision-making.

The menu at Cèdre Bellevue is a subset of the menu of the original restaurant. However, if you are a regular of Badenerstrasse and don’t see your favorites in the menu, just ask. I myself realized that the Viagra (name of an appetizer, Pfizer is not directly contributing to its preparation) was available although it was not listed.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Le Cèdre Bellevue | Relaxing, Snacks, Restaurants (Lebanese) | Dinner for two CHF 120
Schifflände 5 | Kreis 1 City | +41442528370
09:00 – 00:30 daily

The Langstrasse neighborhood is gradually getting rid of its red-light character and is becoming the new trendy quarter in Zurich. Upon moving to Zurich 9 years ago, I was told to avoid the area by night. Nowdays a seat at a restaurant or an apartment for rent are objects of desire.

After a dinner in the area, the Mata Hari bar is a good final destination. The bar is conveniently located near Limmatplatz.

“It is sooo red” will be your first and most dominant impression. I don’t know if this intense redness is a tribute to the district’s reputation but I find it very tasteful.

Rock music plays in the background. Having grown up in the 70s with Deep Purple and Pink Floyd, the sound matches my taste but, 30 years later, I appreciate its moderate volume: conversation in Mata Hari is possible without screaming at each other’s ear.

The (red) sofa area feels very relaxing. It is also possible to sit at the bar or at elevated tables nearby (see photos).

The area behind the bar is another highlight; I find it quite elegantly designed.

The public is young, casual and unpretentious. Prices are reasonable. Drinks are served only at the bar.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Mata Hari | Bars, Music, Relaxing | Juice CHF 8.00
Langstrasse 237 | Kreis 4 Aussersihl | +41432052250
Mon – Thu 17:00 – 03:00, Fri 17:00 – 04:00, Sat 19:00 – 04:00

Back in time, this hill in the middle of Zürich was a bastion for the defense of the city. That is why the Schanzengraben (our most famous moat from the old days) lies right behind it. Later, the hill was turned into the botanical garden of the university, where some crazy naturalists kept their herb gardens.

This was until a new garden was built for them a bit further out and since then (1976), its a public sphere and green oasis for anyone who needs it. At the highest point of the park, you can still find a medieval herb garden with about 50 different medical plants in memory of the crazy naturalists. Rhe historic Palm House pavilion is also pretty.

I love the old botanical garden. It’s a dreamy place, tangly and romantic. Go there and have a picnic (wait till spring maybe!), study some herbs, make out, feel melancholic, hang on a bench and watch how kids piss off their parents or bum some herbal drugs off one of the anthropology students wandering around in their organic sandals. Once in a while you get lucky and won’t meet a soul. A park, in the middle of town, all to yourself, now how funky is that!

Extra tip: If you have some spare time, and I suggest you make some, you must visit the Ethnology Museum that is located in the

garden. Check the current exhibitions on www.musethno.uzh.ch

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Old Botanical Garden | Relaxing | Free
Pelikanstrasse 15 | Kreis 1 City
Apr – Sep 07:00 – 19:00 | Oct – Mar 08:00 – 18:00

Rimini may well be an Italian city on the Adriatic Sea, but it’s also an open-air bar within the river pool area Schanzengraben. During the day the swimming area is for men only (there’s another one just for women at the Limmat near Bürkliplatz).

It was built in 1864 and is therefore the oldest pool area in town with original features. The Schanzengraben was part of the city’s fortification in the 17th century and its atmosphere is often compared to the canals in Venice. Like all pool areas located at one of Zurich’s rivers, entry is free.

In the evening the venue is open to the public and offers pizza and drinks in a beach-style environment, where you’ll feel like you’re in the Mediterranean. This season also sees a market every Monday eve, when various stalls line up around the pool providing an original mix of flee market and design fair. Each week has a different theme ranging from accessories to streetwear but mostly includes fashion and related goodies.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Rimini – Männerbad Schanzengraben | Relaxing, Shopping | Free
Badweg 10 | Kreis 1 City | +41442119594
Sun – Thu 19:15 – 00:00, Fri 18:15 – 00:00, Sat 11:00 – 00:00 unless it’s raining

I introduced the sauna experience in my article about Sauna Utoquai (see the Sauna Utoquai article). Here is some more philosophy mixed with facts: apparently, sauna strengthens the immune system. According to one theory, it is the high temperature in the cabin which simulates fever in the body thus killing harmful germs. According to another theory (mine), it is the thin layer of subcutaneous fat (nothing to do with getting fat) that develops after a few months of regular visits: it acts as a heat shield for the body. If you ask me: it is the euphoric kick (lots of endorphins) after coming out of the cold lake.

So if you are visiting Zurich or live here and became curious, go to Sauna Enge: housed at a public baths wooden platform sitting ON the lake, it offers a great view of Zürisee and the Glarner Alps. There are three cabins one of which (the best one) is reserved for women Tuesday to Saturday. The whole establishment is reserved for women on Mondays.

There is a lot of space for sunbathing and, should it get cold, you can cover up with blankets and/or move inside behind the glass door and still gaze at the lake and the snowy mountain peaks.

A two-hour stay is recommended but nobody controls. Go early on a sunny day, have breakfast (basic snacks are available) and leave after dark so as to experience all luminosity phases of the lake. A book belongs to the must-have accessories.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Sauna Enge | Relaxing | Single entrance CHF 25.00
Mythenquai 9 | Kreis 2 Enge | +41442013889
Oct – Apr 09:00 – 23:00 | Special times in the summer

Wellness is quite popular in central Europe. A two-hour sauna visit is considered equivalent to a day of vacation. Switzerland, with most of its big cities located by lakes or rivers (or both) offers several possibilities.

Sauna Utoquai is housed at the southern end of the public baths called Bad Utoquai (known as the “Badi” among its regulars). Sauna Utoquai is a members-only club but membership is open to all. The minimum membership period is 3 months and includes unlimited entrance to the facilities: the sauna, the steam bath and the hot tub at the edge of the lake.

The privileged members can enter the lake and relax in the open air throughout the year regardless of weather. From late September to May, members have the entire ground of the “Badi” at their disposal. During the summer they have exclusive use of a separate terrace but can also mingle with the crowds in the Badi.

Outdoor relaxation can take several forms: sunbathing during a nice sunny afternoon or gazing at the sunset or the moonlight from the comfort of the 37 degrees of the hot tub.

Moving to Zurich permanently or for a period of at least three months? The option to take vacation during lunch break, after work or during the weekend exists. In the beginning it is just relaxation; then it gradually becomes lifestyle.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Sauna Utoquai | Relaxing | Annual subscription fee CHF 1250.00
Utoquai 49 | Kreis 8 Seefeld | +41442528085
09:00 – 22:00 daily

It is summer. Occasionally, I want to take a break from lake Zurich. One of the alternatives is a small lake located at the northeastern end of the city: the Katzensee. The origin of the lake’s name is not cat (Katze is cat in German) but originates from Hatto, a German guy who gave his name to the lake sometime around the 7th century A.D.

If Katzensee were a company then it would formulate its USP (Unique Selling Proposition) with respect to its competitors (Zürisee, Greifensee) as follows:

1) So close to the city and so far away from it: the walk from the bus stop to the lake is very idyllic; you traverse a beautiful forest.

2) Extreme temperature variations: the lake is small (800 m length, 400 m width, maximum depth 8 m). The water gets warm enough for swimming earlier than the water of competitors. It can also freeze in the winter. In January 2009, ice skating was permitted exactly during one weekend.

3) A place for all: arriving to the lake from the side of Zurich, head right to arrive to a children’s playground. Going in the other direction, you see the average age rise; it reaches its peak value at the official nudist section.

Some additional features: (i) a small restaurant (ii) possibility for barbecue grilling (iii) natural shade from trees at least until late afternoon (iv) sunset.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Seebad Katzensee | Relaxing, Snacks
Katzenseestrasse | Kreis 11 Oerlikon | +41443710890
May – Sep 09:00 – 20:00

I have always had a love-hate relation to jazz. I understand nothing about it. I cannot name any artists or tell it apart from soul, blues etc. And all jazz sounds the same to me.

But I love jazz bars. Many years ago I discovered the “Gig”, a small hot smoky jazz club in the Müllerstrasse. The artists were not internationally famous (probably) but little bands, sometimes local ones (luckily, because I wouldn’t be able to tell the difference). Then the Gig moved to a new location in the Fraumünsterstrasse; from the red light district to the business district. Same faces, same concept: no entrance fee, no overpriced drinks, just voluntary tipping. Guests could order from the Italian restaurant next door and consume while listening to music. And then, a couple of years later, the Gig closed; a sign was pointing to the Trattoria & Soul in Seefeld, a going-out district.

Trattoria and Soul brings me back (mentally) to the Gig. The environment has evolved: it is more bourgeois than underground and a bit more luminous but is very pleasant anyway. Live music plays only on Thursday and Friday from October to May; for a couple of hours starting at 21:00. There is a rich artist repertoire that changes weekly. You can enjoy the music with bar-food or just a drink and/or a cigar from the humidor.

At other times you are in a very nice Italian restaurant. In the summer there are tables outside.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Trattoria & Soul | Coffee & tea, Music, Relaxing, Snacks, Restaurants (Italian)
Seefeldstrasse 5 | Kreis 8 Seefeld | +41442525212
Mon – Fri 11:00 – 02:00, Sat 17:00 – 02:00, Sun 17:00 – 00:00

The Uetliberg is pretty well known and very touristy. So what is it doing here, you ask? Well, I don’t want to tell you about the famous Zurich lookout per se, I want to recommend you a way to get there: I want you to walk up there. Don’t take the train, as they say, it’s boring, and you miss the beautiful path through the beautiful wood and that would be a pity.

So if it’s raining take the the Bus Number 72 or the Tram 14 to their terminal station “Triemli” and from there head to the hill. Or take the Tram number 13 to “Albisgüetli”, also an terminal station for an alternative way up. Getting up takes about an hour, a bit less if you’re an athlete, a bit more if you’re a slacker like me. Halfway up there’s a booth where you can buy hot chocolate, tea or punch to warm up and refresh yourself a bit. Then on the top you can enjoy the view over Zurich, feeling that you really deserved it after a healthy dose of exercise.

To get back into the city, I allow you to take the train.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Uetliberg by Foot | Coffee & tea, Relaxing
Triemli | Kreis 9 Altstetten
Daily (but I recommend you to go when it’s good weather)

An island in the city: beyond the lake and the river, Zurich offers this attraction too. It just feels different to be surrounded by water from every side (trust me, I am Greek). Ok, the island in question is reachable through pedestrian bridges.

The Werdinsel is located in the river Limmat in the city quarter called Höngg. I am a regular visitor of the island since I live nearby. The island appeals to different people and tastes and is, naturally, most popular in the summer.

The upper (eastern) side offers supervised river bathing for the mainstream. Families would appreciate the natural shade of the trees (if desired) and the little pool and playground for the offspring.

Moving westwards you encounter some vast fields which serve as a football playground.

The lower side is a popular nudist area (officially illegal since 1983) that is divided into two parts: the major part has a fraction of women and heterosexual men around 0.1%. The smallest part, separated from the rest by a shallow water canal, attracts a more mixed public. On a hot Sunday evening, the naked sun-worshippers are occasionally flushed with the smoke from the ad-hoc sausage grilling of non-naked locals.

There is a summer festival (Inselfäscht) in the beginning of July.

But the island is also ideal for walking, jogging and cycling during the other seasons, especially during the autumn. I have also heard of senior citizens bathing in the ice-cold river water during the winter (brrrr).

Click here for more photos.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Werdinsel | Relaxing, Snacks | Free
Badeplatz Au-Höngg | Kreis 9 Altstetten | +41443417193
24 hours daily