I spent all summers of my school years near the coast in Greece: life was a beach. Choosing to live in Switzerland felt like this lifestyle would remain a sweet childhood memory. After all, central Europe has no Mediterranean and no real summer. Life would be a bitch. Right?

Wrong! If you want to go swimming every day in the summer after work, which metropolis is better? Athens, Rome or Zurich? You want to get there quickly, maybe also your during lunch break and, if you are an early bird, before going to work in the morning. The choice is a no-brainer: Zurich by all means.

There are several public baths in Zurich. They attract different crowds. Bad Utoquai is located on the eastern side of the lake and is housed in a historic monument dating back to 1889. The venue would not be the first choice of youngsters or families with children. For many regulars, the Badi (local dialect) has been an integral part of their life for years or decades. It is a small world in itself. It offers fantastic sunsets, especially after the sky has been whimsical.

There is a small restaurant offering warm meals as well as a rich salad buffet. The northern (and nicest) end of the Badi is reserved for women, the southern side for men and the two central areas are mixed.

Yes, life is still a beach.

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Seebad Utoquai | Relaxing, Snacks | Entrance adults CHF 6.00
Utoquai 49 | Kreis 8 Seefeld | +41442516151
12 May – 23 Sep 07:00 – 20:00 daily

Wellness is quite popular in central Europe. A two-hour sauna visit is considered equivalent to a day of vacation. Switzerland, with most of its big cities located by lakes or rivers (or both) offers several possibilities.

Sauna Utoquai is housed at the southern end of the public baths called Bad Utoquai (known as the “Badi” among its regulars). Sauna Utoquai is a members-only club but membership is open to all. The minimum membership period is 3 months and includes unlimited entrance to the facilities: the sauna, the steam bath and the hot tub at the edge of the lake.

The privileged members can enter the lake and relax in the open air throughout the year regardless of weather. From late September to May, members have the entire ground of the “Badi” at their disposal. During the summer they have exclusive use of a separate terrace but can also mingle with the crowds in the Badi.

Outdoor relaxation can take several forms: sunbathing during a nice sunny afternoon or gazing at the sunset or the moonlight from the comfort of the 37 degrees of the hot tub.

Moving to Zurich permanently or for a period of at least three months? The option to take vacation during lunch break, after work or during the weekend exists. In the beginning it is just relaxation; then it gradually becomes lifestyle.

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Sauna Utoquai | Relaxing | Annual subscription fee CHF 1350.00
Utoquai 49 | Kreis 8 Seefeld | +41442528085
09:00 – 22:00 daily

In my opinion, Zurich is one of the nicest cities to live in during the summer. The pool area called Unterer Letten is on the Limmat. Built in 1910, it’s one of Zurich’s oldest pool area. Inside the wooden bath-house you feel like you’ve stepped back in time.

The stream is a bit stronger here so you should be a fairly good swimmer. Best is to walk upwards along the wall (it’s easy just observe how the others do it) to lengthen the stretch you’ll float down afterwards. Adventure-seekers can also jump from the railroad bridge (approx. 10 m).

The end of the pool area is marked by a fence. You can just swim to the side and climb up the steps or float right towards the fence (much more fun). Have a look at how the locals do it: You float on your back, feet to the front and as soon as you make contact with the bars you stand/lie in the water and get a great massage by the water floating around you. Fabulous!

And to make it even more perfects, there are also offers to satisfy your culinary needs. Daily from 09:00 – 20:00, the kiosk on the grass area above the pool serves breakfast, salads, crepes, pasta and tapas dishes and every Tuesday from 20:15 – 00:00, the pool area itself hosts a bar sometimes combined with cultural events,

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Unterer Letten | Relaxing | Free
Wasserwerkstrasse 141 | Kreis 10 Wipkingen | +41443621080
13 May – 13 Sep 09:00 – 20:00

Rimini may well be an Italian city on the Adriatic Sea, but it’s also an open-air bar within the river pool area Schanzengraben.

Rimini was built in 1864 and is therefore the oldest pool area in town with original features. The Schanzengraben was part of the city’s fortification in the 17th century and its atmosphere is often compared to the canals in Venice. The swimming area at Schanzengraben is open to men only during the day, but is available to all in the evening, when it offers food and drinks in an atmosphere evoking a Mediterranean beach but in the middle of the city. Great pizza!

Monday is always market day. The stalls alternate between selling second hand goods and the latest designs from Zurich.

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Rimini | Relaxing | Beer CHF 5.00
Badweg 10 | Kreis 1 City | +41442119594
From 17:00 daily

When the temperatures rises, you find the majority of Zurich’s inhabitants near the water. Just five minutes from the main station is the pool area Oberer Letten, located at the Limmat. Floating in the river is one of the best feelings you’ll ever experience!

On the left hand side you’ll see a concrete construction from 1952 which is also called PierWest; that’s where you’ll find the changing rooms as well as a bar. (The picture is taken upstream, so it’s just the other way around). This side is for all who prefer shade and who like it a bit quieter. However, at dusk this area turns into a barbecue place / bar with music and the perfect chill-out area.

On the right hand side of the river there’s a patch of grass – though it’s generally so packed that it’s hard to make out the green between all the bodies. On one side of this patch is a (rather over priced) restaurant and on the other a beach-volley court. Here the young and hip meet after work for a swim and a chat.

To swim in the river, it’s best to walk upstream and then to float down, up to 400 m all in all. There are several ladders where you can leave the water within the pool area so you don’t have to worry about a thing.

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Oberer Letten | Bars, Music, Relaxing | Free
Lettensteg 10 | Kreis 5 Industrie | +41443629200
24 hours daily

Kreis 4 is the most densely populated district in Zurich so it comes as no surprise that this smallish park is well used by the locals. Located between Stauffacherstrasse, Feldstrasse and Hohlstrasse, Bäckeranlage is the green lung of this neighbourhood.

Take tram 8 or bus 31 to the stop called Bäckeranlage and utter relaxation is just a few steps away. Although the park isn’t very big, it offers something for everyone: large trees for shade, sunny spots on the grass and a restaurant if you’re hungry or thirsty. There’s also a children’s playground and benches, which are handy when the grass is (still) wet. The restaurant is much prettier from the outside than inside but at least it houses a loo!

I like this park because the atmosphere is very relaxed. Nobody minds if you bring a grill or a guitar along and, despite the crowd, you’ll generally find a quiet spot to read a book. On Wednesday, there’s a band playing – unplugged and for free.

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Bäckeranlage | Relaxing | Free
Stauffacherstrasse/Hohlstrasse | Kreis 4 Aussersihl
24 hours daily

Le Cèdre Bellevue is the young brother of Le Cèdre at Badenerstrasse (see the Le Cedre article). It opened in April this year, apparently to fill in some gaps that the original venue left open. It is managed by the (younger?) brother of the charmeur who rules the place in Badenerstrasse.

The difference between the two restaurants can be best summarized in two words: location and occasion.

About the location: the new restaurant is located more near the city center, the river and the lake. Most importantly, it has a big terrace.

For which occasion(s)? Here are some examples: a lunch if you are working in the area or visiting Zurich, an outdoors dinner during a warm evening, a snack for reacting to hunger after a swim nearby. So if the original place is ideal for a special experience, to be planned and savored in each detail, the new venue is mostly chosen after spontaneous decision-making.

The menu at Cèdre Bellevue is a subset of the menu of the original restaurant. However, if you are a regular of Badenerstrasse and don’t see your favorites in the menu, just ask. I myself realized that the Viagra (name of an appetizer, Pfizer is not directly contributing to its preparation) was available although it was not listed.

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Le Cèdre Bellevue | Relaxing, Snacks, Restaurants (Lebanese) | Dinner for two CHF 120
Schifflände 5 | Kreis 1 City | +41442528370
09:00 – 00:30 daily

An island in the city: beyond the lake and the river, Zurich offers this attraction too. It just feels different to be surrounded by water from every side (trust me, I am Greek). Ok, the island in question is reachable through pedestrian bridges.

The Werdinsel is located in the river Limmat in the city quarter called Höngg and appeals to different people and tastes. The island is, naturally, most popular in the summer.

The upper (eastern) side offers supervised river bathing for the mainstream. Families would appreciate the natural shade of the trees (if desired) and the little pool and playground for the offspring.

The lower side is a popular nudist area (officially illegal since 1983) that is divided into two parts: the major part is primarily gay. The smallest part, separated from the rest by a shallow water canal, attracts a more mixed public. On both parts you may run across some quite creative body art. The gay part attracts also a lot of (dressed) barbecue visitors of all ages.

There is a summer festival (Inselfäscht) in July.

But the island is also ideal for walking, jogging and cycling during other seasons, especially during the autumn. The crowds are away and visitors can enjoy the exhilarating melancholy of the fallen leaves: ideal for a conversation or just self-reflection.

I have also heard of senior citizens bathing in the ice-cold river water during the winter (brrrr).

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Werdinsel | Relaxing, Snacks | Free
Badeplatz Au-Höngg | Kreis 9 Altstetten | +41443417193
24 hours daily

During the summer Zurich offers numerous spots by the water such as cafés, restaurants and boathouses.

Lago Zürich, a boathouse, rents pedal boats, is available for organizing events and functions as a self-service café by the water; More properly put: ON the water. The spot is housed on a platform sitting on the eastern side of lake Zurich by the promenade known as Utoquai.

Lago Zürich is ideal for an outdoor drink during the late evening hours. It combines the beautiful view towards the sunset sky while offering relaxing distance from the crowds of Utoquai.

Most enjoyable is the mild swinging motion of the platform caused by the waves of the lake water. This motion is subtle: during the first visit one wonders weather the effect is real or illusory. But beware: the small waves are often caused by a mild breeze felt more intensely on the platform than along Utoquai. So even if T-shirt feels comfortable on the “mainland” a few meters away, a light jacket may be appreciated on the platform.

I like the setup with the sofas: they create a laid-back mood. There are also plastic chairs which can be moved or rotated “at will”. Guests can choose the desired orientation: facing the sunset sky above the Kongresshaus or the Alps towards the south or the illuminated church towers towards the north.

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Lago Zürich | Coffee & tea, Relaxing, Snacks | Espresso CHF 4.50
Utoquai 6 | Kreis 8 Seefeld | +41442622220
Jun – Aug from 09:30, Apr – May & Sep – Oct from 11:00 (weather permitting)

If Zurich’s Bahnhofstrasse gets the lion share of human traffic when it comes to shopping, then Utoquai, the eastern side of the lake, is popular for just strolling along the waterfront. It is where crowds celebrate a sunny Sunday afternoon in the winter or every day of the summer. My wife always compares it to the Greek island of Spetses.

Strolling is nice but a place to sit and eat is also necessary. Restaurant Grill Pumpstation is located at the ideal “latitude”: close enough to Bellevueplatz to go by walk, far enough to feel like Spetses.

A great location is good for a restaurant; a great location with good food even better. I have not tried many items of the menu because I practically stuck with the first thing I tried: Pumpisspiess, a beef skewer whose taste won my loyalty. The portion goes for CHF 18.50 but comes without a side dish. So ordering French fries would add another CHF 7.50 to the bill.

At around 18:00 or 19:00 in the evening it may get very hard to find a table, especially on the side closer to the lake. I personally recommend taking a swim at that time and coming to the restaurant after 20:00 to enjoy the late evening mood including the sunset (photos).

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Pumpstation | Relaxing, Snacks, Restaurants (Grill) | Chicken breast (no side dish) CHF 18.50
Utoquai 10 | Kreis 8 Seefeld | +41442609669
Morning – 22:00 daily (when warm enough & not raining)