In hard times, it’s important to eat well and dream a lot. When it comes to eating well, sourdough bread sounds like a brilliant idea, so everyone’s ‘raising’ their own sourdough these days, but I am hopeless at keeping even a cactus alive, so I don’t even try. I go to Arán instead, where the bread loaves are round, beautiful, warm, and crusty, like bread I had as a child. It's bread that reminds me of my grandmother’s kitchen table, where I would have fresh bread and hot milk for breakfast while she already busied herself with making lunch. It’s that form of mental transport I discovered in Marcel Proust’s ‘In Search of Lost Time’, when an entire world comes back to him as he dips madeleines in tea. And you guessed it, Arán has madeleines too, and they’re even better than the real (read, French) thing.
This last bit was a (not very) hidden reference to U2, the defining band of my teenage years, who are Irish and because of them I sought out everything Irish, including a spectacular photo spread in a magazine, of the Arán islands. So now, whenever I go for my sourdough bread and sumptuous cinnamon rolls, I promise myself that when these crazy times end, I will make it there. Solace is something money can't buy, except when you can get it in the shape of pastry, and then for a few hundred forints you get so much more than you bargained for.
Find your way with 171 Insider Tips from our Local Spotters
At this spot, you may find the events of some of the well-known members of the local underground scene playing some funky sets or having an exhibition.
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Muzikum Bisztró, near the National Museum, serves a great 2-3 course lunch menu affordably.
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Their gin-based signature cocktail is my absolute number one. It's called “Ramos Gin Fizz” and it’s pure magic in a glass. It never, ever disappoints.
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I love starting my day here with my personal favorite, the "Don Corleone" bagel. They offer a wide selection of bagel types, some served hot & others cold.
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Ligeti Bolt, a zero-waste pioneer in Budapest, offers grains, snacks, and more for refill. Shop eco-friendly, bring your jars, and embrace a conscious lifestyle!
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The "Hungarian Treasury" in Budapest is a building I show to all my guests. Its secessionist art nouveau style is reminiscent of Antoni Gaudí...
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The true star of Vivina’s brunch menu is the porridge—comforting, nourishing, and served with fresh berries and toasted nuts, it’s one of the best porridges in town!
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"Lion's Locker" in Budapest is a cute family-run cafe where I can stay all day. The staff is all wonderful - and they know how to make almond milk foam!
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"Sport Bisztró" in Budapest is a pleasantly familiar, well-oiled haunt that sticks to the proverb 'healthy mind in a healthy body!' Great sports bar, too.
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"Nos a Hely" is a pop-up vintage shop in Hungary - they have a carefully curated selection of vintage porcelain and other local items. Great for gifts!
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"Pogány-torony", or Pagan Tower, in Budapest, is one of the city's strangest buildings, with a Gothic folk-tale-meets-Tolkien charm...
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171 Insider Tips from our local Spotters
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