They say all women sooner or later turn into their mothers, but I seem to be on a crash course to turn into my grandmother first: I have inexplicably fallen in love with porcelain trinkets. Nicknamed ‘nipp’ in Hungarian, small porcelain objects were long associated with the dust-smelling living rooms of little old ladies, alongside knitted tablecloths and slightly mold-tasting biscuits. They are however currently making a spectacular comeback, being reappraised as a piece of vintage nostalgia by the hip crowd.
While I hazily knew all of this, the desire to possess such an object only overcame me when, walking fairly aimlessly at the foot of the Castle District, I bumped into the tiny but atmospheric Nos By Beans store, a treasure trove of carefully selected vintage porcelain, spiced up with the work of some contemporary local designers (everything from clothes, accessories and prints) and good coffee, provided in collaboration with the By Beans café. I went in with a healthy dose of curiosity and left with a vase, a porcelain squirrel and a Tiszta Techno Rendes House T-shirt. The porcelain objects, often the work of classical Hungarian and regional brands, rotate quite heavily, so each visit feels a bit like a treasure hunt.
Beware, the store opening hours (Tue-Sat 11-19) are a bit shorter than those of the café, but it can still be visited when the café is open, and if you find the porcelain dog of your dreams, they will set it aside for you.