Named after the famous French mountain cycling route, and decorated accordingly, the Tourmalet is exactly the kind of laid-back, traditionally Scottish pub that Leith Walk is renowned for – but with a twist. Being one of my locals, I spend many an evening cosied up inside this bar, amidst the quirky décor, which includes a model train set circling the wall, cotton wool clouds hanging from the ceiling, and two or three fish tanks filled with strange-looking fish. The back room feels just like a living room, with a collection of mismatching armchairs and low lighting creating the perfect setting for a wintry evening.
But the thing that really sets the Tourmalet apart from many other Leith pubs is its beer selection. Although I almost always go for one of their more classic tap beers, such as Amstel or Stella, Edinburgh’s beer aficionados know that the fridge behind the counter is stocked up with bottles of elusive Bavarian beers, imported straight from Germany. If you know your beer, the Tourmalet is the place for you.