Music is the star of the show at Spiritland. The venue is equipped with a unique, world-class sound system (details are here—I won’t pretend I know what they mean or why they’re exciting), with music covering a wide panoply of genres and eras playing day and night—and that’s every day and night, with DJ sets every evening and all weekend, as well as music-themed talks, interviews and Q&As; there’s also a recording studio on the premises, and Spiritland has its own radio channel. The music never stops—even when you go to the loo, which is an experience worth having there whether you need it or not.

So what is it, exactly? Café, restaurant, bar; whatever you like, really. Spiritland not only ticks all these wonderful boxes, but ticks them well. You may think that the food would be a grudging afterthought in a place with such a patent focus on the audible, but in fact the seasonal fare here gives a memorable performance of its own. Strange though it may sound, I’d recommend coming in the morning; perhaps not the place for an intimate chat, or even a hangover, but nor will you feel as though you’re eating in a nightclub, and the coffee blends with the beats to deliver the perfect wake-up. As you tuck into your brunch you’ll be resisting the urge to get up and dance (or perhaps not resisting it at all).