This has been a famous 2-3 star restaurant since forever, but for me it’s a place with all sorts of contradictions. It’s an Asian-looking temple with top architecture from the late ’60s, but it’s on a tiny side street in an ugly neighbourhood of low-cost towers in a corner of Munich where no-one would suggest a top restaurant and where it’s not easy to find. An exposed concrete shell from the outside, but with chef Hans Haas for the last 25 years inside – a chef who grew up on a poor alpine farm with direct access to ingredients. He never stopped cooking on the same local, unspoiled base.
H. Haas retired in 2020 and a young chef has been elected, Benjamin Chmura. The place will stay more or less as it was, but currently is under renovation. You can only see the outside shell at them moment. Inside there was an overwhelming all-deep-orange world, everything was orange. The refreshing modernism of the ’60s.
A ritual every late autumn: the chef and his employees stay overnight, trucks with tons of “Marillen” (local name for apricots) arrive from Austria and they cook jam – 1500 kg of jam = 7500 glasses. It takes them hours to clean up the sticky floors, walls & ovens until they can restart their two star cuisine? By the way, the color of the jam is deep orange, of course.
