There’s the street, my street – Vodovodna ulica (which I’m writing about as a Spot) – and there’s the old bar Skradin. Active from 1965, the bar is a hidden spot in Rijeka, where local residents drink their coffees and brandies and young intellectuals, artists and culture workers come to relax after their jobs.
It’s being managed by mother and son and I love them. He’s at the bar, doing what a bartender and a waiter usually do, and she sits near the bar, sipping from her glass, overlooking everything. She knows it all, as any long term bar manager knows it. Once, I was near closing a deal on a flat, which nobody knew about. We were at Skradin doing business, just like any person from the Balkans would do business in a bar, and I walked up to her to greet her and she asked me: “Have you moved in yet?” As I said, she knows it all, so if you have some unanswered questions, just ask her.
But now we have a problem. I’m not sure if I want this spot to be “discovered”, because I don’t want it to be changed in any way. It’s perfect as it is. So I have to ask you something: don’t come here if you’re a loud tourist who will ruin everything. Come to Skradin with respect, order some spirit and let the place do the magic. Blend in.