Going sightseeing can be both strenuous and exhausting, especially if it is done in a city such as Thessaloniki where the most interesting sights are located at the top end, near Upper Town and Eptapirgion (Yedikule in Turkish). That takes a lot of walking, I am telling you.

How about doing it the other way around? Right next to the former jail of Yedikule lies  a small and unpretentious paradise called “cafe Aithrion”. It’s been there since 1993 offering shade and comfort in an otherwise rocky and sun-filled area. When I wish to take my friends to a historic trail in Thessaloniki we first come up here. We have a great ice-cold coffee or a juice and breakfast, enjoy the view from the top and then go down to the centre.

Even better, “Aithrio” could relieve you from the sun and the heat of a summer day when you visit it at sunset. The night flowers and the basil spread their beautiful aromas, the tourists leave the historical sights and you are left with the soft notes of classic rock ballads, the breeze from the tree-filled garden and Aithrio’s cats purring right by you. Even though it fills up quickly, Aithrio is never noisy; on the contrary, it is as if everybody else is also craving for their peace and quiet when visiting this place.

Pure bliss.