Almost a century ago, in a region far away (the Balkans), an endemic avant-garde movement emerged. Zenitism had its peak in the 1920s, in Zagreb & Belgrade, using almost all traditional art forms, in a not-so-traditional manner. Defined by one of its founders as “abstract metacosmic expressionism”, it fiercely promoted anti-nationalist/bourgeois/war principles.
Today, twenty kilometres from central Belgrade, an oasis of Zenitism and Danubian avant-garde resides in a museum on the banks of the Danube. Owned & operated by a peculiar art aficionado Vladimir Macura since 2007, the cubic dark building strikes the eyes of passers-by through Novi Banovci, tucked in the rare apple grove.
Besides Zenitism, its collection is focused on Yugo-dada, Russian and Polish constructivism, Belgrade surrealism, Gorgona, high modernism, Viennese actionism, minimalism... Represented through paintings, sculptures, designer chairs, installations and video works, photos, drawings, letters, and magazines.
Open from May to October, the museum has its vast depot, which is a place to see of its own, situated in a former wheat silage. It also includes a café where you can enjoy Macura’s signature lavender syrup drink and whatever food is available and get lost in the huge water and woods scenery below you while processing the impressions of the museum visit. The garden features other interesting constructions, such as a “glass palace” and a chapel dedicated to artist Kazimir Malevich with an intriguing mobile roof.
Interested in a (half)day trip? Call ahead and let them know you're coming. You can take buses 706 (from Zeleni venac) or 73 from New Belgrade/Zemun.
Find your way with 200 Insider Tips from our Local Spotters
An ice cream machine, one plastic chair next to it, a parasol over it, and a really pleasant person serving ice cream. Opt for a large or small portion.
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What I love most about this place is that they provide sauces of varying levels of spiciness so you can adjust the meal to suit your taste and mood.
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Apart from coffee, Veza offers tasty vegan food, from vegan scrambled eggs to avocado toasts, fried vegetables to an assortment of hummuses and tofu.
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This event happens every last Saturday of the month, and it is organized by the cyclist organization called Streets for Cyclists. Join us for a ride!
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My favorites are black sesame and pistachio, but the options are plentiful. They offer traditional fillings like black bean, as well as fruity options.
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Zaokret serves simple yet flavorful dishes, such as eggs prepared in different styles, oatmeals, and some slightly more exotic choices like shakshuka.
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Košutnjak, a woods 20 minutes from the city center by bus, spreads over more than 300 hectares of land and offers many paths and spots to explore.
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I find this park to be great for a walk, as it is close to the river bank, and you can just continue your walk there, enjoying scenic views of the river.
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The portions are big, the prices reasonable, and options diverse. I recommend the rice noodles with tofu and vegetables in a peanut sauce - very tasty!
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Tucked in a YU-era complex, visit Utočište with its wondeful people, social impact and Sicilian sweets, — an unexpected gem in New Belgrade.
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Savana stands out on Zemun Quay with blues, cold beer, and river views — wooden, laid-back, pet-friendly, and blissfully free of turbo folk music.
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