People newly settled into Harlem between 110th and 116th Street intermingle on neighbourhood sidewalks; gentrifiers are easily spotted at expensive sidewalk cafés; the Wolof people are harder to find.
I was drawn into one of their cafés accidentally, out of curiosity. On 116th Street, under a black awning shouting 'African Food' and through its glass-walled frontage, I could see people shoulder to shoulder, socially engaged, sharing broad communal plates of colourful food.
Feeling peckish, I joined them.
Lunchtime it was and Wolof, the language spoken. Sokhna, the lone server told me the sixteen or so fellow diners stuffed into the few tables and one long banquette was a typical size lunchtime crowd.
On the lunch menu were four types of Thiebou (a stew of cassava, carrots, eggplants, cabbage and cauliflower mixed with fish, chicken, lamb or guinea fowl crowning a mountain of red, brown or white rice), Sulukh (fish and okra in peanut sauce), and Maffe (lamb and vegetables in peanut sauce on white rice), and more.
The Wolof people are the largest ethnic group in (roughly) the northwestern area of Senegal. Their recorded history is known mainly from the 15th century (as written by the Portuguese) though their traditions of culture and caste have dominated north-central Senegal for much of the past 800 years.
It wasn't until the 1890s that Colonial rulers effectively halted the slave trade in which Wolofs had played a facilitatory role, slaves having frequently passed through Wolof lands before arriving at the coast.
Find your way with 301 Insider Tips from our Local Spotters
In the lobby of 1166 Avenue of the Americas in NYC hang some significant tapestries by Lichtenstein & a large bronze homage to capitalism by Otterness...
by
The MTA in NYC offers subway "nostalgia rides" during the summer months on old cars from the '30s and '40s. Book your ticket now!
by
"Teranga" in New York City, in the Africa Center, is a restaurant as well as a library. It feels musical and maintains a feeling of communal comfort...
by
"Grand Bazaar" NYC is the city's largest outdoor market, also with an indoor section. Here you can find absolutely everything and for bargain prices!
by
S&P Sandwich Shop, opened in 1928, serves Jewish classics like matzoh ball soup and latkes in a nostalgic setting that feels like stepping back in time. A must-visit!
by
Games of Professional Baseball in New York doesn't just mean watching the Yankees play and paying 100s of dollars: watch a Class A game for much cheaper!
by
"Rubenstein Atrium" in New York's Lincoln Center has a free performance every Thursday night. I recommend you try to arrive around 18:30 to catch a seat.
by
"Gray's Papaya" in New York equals classic hot dogs. This place has been here at least 45 years, and it's easy to see why. Great people-watching spot too.
by
"Revson Fountain" at the Lincoln Center in NYC is one of the results of the renovation that started in 2006. It's spectacular and a must-see!
by
"Paris Cinema", est. 1948, is the last single screen cinema in NYC today; what irony that it was saved from closing by Netflix itself...
by
The White Clam Sauce linguine is classic. So much is served that what can’t be eaten on the spot can be taken home and easily reheated the next day,
by
301 Insider Tips from our local Spotters
Authentic Stories by Real People
Escape the Crowd & Travel Slow 🐌
✓ 0 Insider Tips from our local Spotters
✓ 301 Insider Tips