How would you like to discover Paris’ 12tharrondissement from a different angle i.e. starting 10 meters above ground? The "promenade plantée" also known as "Coulée verte René-Dumont" (or "Coulée verte" for short) forms a 4.5 km green belt that will take you from the Place de la Bastille to the Bois de Vincennes in an hour to hour-and-a-half walk. The first chunk of this walk begins behind the Bastille Opera House and runs towards the lusciously green Jardin de Reuilly above the avenue de Daumesnil on the Viaduc des arts.
The itinerary follows the former railway line linking the Bastille station (which was demolished to build the opera) to La Varenne-Saint-Maur from 1853 to 1969. As a matter of fact, the Jardin de Reuilly still has its former railway station! Work started in 1988 to rehabilitate the old railway infrastructure and ended in 1993, resulting in a beautiful green pathway above the 71 arcades of the viaduct that now houses over 50 art shops.
The Viaduc des Arts is situated close by to the Gare de Lyon so if you happen to have a bit of time on your hands before catching a train there or if you are feeling in need of a good dose of fresh air after a long journey, why not make the most of it and discover Paris from above (and below through the tunnels and trenches on the way!).
Find your way with 168 Insider Tips from our Local Spotters
"Rue Férou" in Paris has a mural of Rimbaud's Bâteau Ivre on what is now a tax center. It's all written by hand by calligrapher Jan Willem Bruins.
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"Coutume Café" is THE place in Paris you should take any sceptic who still believes it is impossible to find a good cup of coffee in the French capital...
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"Chapon Chocolat" in Paris is the only high-tier chocolatier that has a chocolate mousse bar! The owner drew inspiration from picking ice cream flavours...
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"Assemblages" is a wine bar in Paris you should definitely visit if you're walking through Place des Vosges. The owner is a cabinet maker - and it shows!
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"Rue du Montparnasse" in Paris is THE place to be to try authentic French savory crêpes, aka galettes, just like they make them in Brittany.
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"Jardin Catherine-Labouré" in Paris was an orchard that belonged to the Filles de la Charité convent; today, it's the perfect place to take your kids!
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"Les Copains du Faubourg" with its English bulldog mascot makes a perfect egg & bacon roll that never fails to draw me in...
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"Maison POS" in Paris is a fruit & veg seller is focused on organic fresh produce. It's a pleasure pantry where you can discover local tastes!
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"Chez Antoine" in Paris is great any time of day! It's the kind of place they always remember my order - a Pizza Sicilienne usually...
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"La Kabane" in Paris is a go-to place of mine for citron, coconut, triple chocolate and granola cookies! I love their dog...
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"Refuge BD" in Paris is a local comic book or BD shop where I've been doing 'click & collect' during the lockdown...
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"Espace Niemeyer" in Paris is home to the French Communist Party, but also a space dedicated to artistic expression and creative architecture...
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168 Insider Tips from our local Spotters
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