Leitaria Moderna Lisbon

Have a drink with the locals

Alexandre from Lisbon

About me I’ve been a Lisbon resident (“alfacinha” as the Lisbon inhabitants are often called) since 1993; I first came to this beautiful city to finish my studies and ended up finding a job, a house and a neighborhood where I feel at home. I live with my girlfriend Fatinha; I’m an origami enthusiast and a board game addict. I consider myself a romantic in love with things from o...
""Leitaria Moderna" is one of the places in Lisbon where time has frozen. It's a small coffee shop where locals gather and chat. Great for breakfast, too..."

This is one of those places where time has frozen. Like many other places in Lisbon's old neighbourhoods where you can still witness colours, shapes, objects and persons from years ago, this place is the gathering spot of many locals of all ages to have a drink and chat a little and stay up to date on the neighbourhood's news. It looks and feels like the 70s. The usual customers actually asked the owner not to change the look!

But this doesn't sum up Leitaria Moderna's essence. This is a small coffee shop, literally translated to "Modern Creamery", ideal and a first choice for the locals to have breakfast early in the morning or to have a coffee "Portuguese style" which we call "bica" – a strong espresso.

Here you can have a very cheap breakfast of bread, cakes, toasts, milk, juices, tea, coffee and more in the company of the old ladies that live nearby. It opens at 07:00 so it's ideal for morning people to start their day full of energy and in a good mood that you get from the lady behind the counter, Celeste, who's always smiling.

At the end of day it's the men's time to gather here for a beer or a glass of wine; a "taça" or "tacinha" as they call it. A great time to chat and learn about old time stories. You can find me here often chatting with the neighbours over a glass of wine or beer. Feel free to join us!

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Lisbon Spotter Alexandre

About me I’ve been a Lisbon resident (“alfacinha” as the Lisbon inhabitants are often called) since 1993; I first came to this beautiful city to finish my studies and ended up finding a job, a house and a neighborhood where I feel at home. I live with my girlfriend Fatinha; I’m an origami enthusiast and a board game addict. I consider myself a romantic in love with things from other times; things like film photography, vinyl discs or the first gaming consoles immediately make me smile. I see myself as a friendly person. I’m unpretentious and open minded and love...

About this spot

Rua São Cristóvão 37

Breakfast:

2.50

Oct 10, 2025

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