Montreal is known as a city of culture, so where is the newest and most challenging art created?
Housed in a brutalist post-industrial building that used to be home to a thriving textile trade are many of the city's best artist-run centres: Centre Clark, Diagonale, Optica and Dazibao, Perte de Signal, Topo, Elektra, Circulaire. A block away at 5425 Casgrain, you'll find Daphné, the first Indigenous artist-run centre in Quebec. The number of galleries and the coolness of the location on the eastern edge of the celebrated Mile-End district make this a must-see stop for those hoping to understand cultural Montreal.
Each gallery has its own mandate and style, so a trip to the area will almost always result in a wide assessment of contemporary art as practiced in the city. Artist-run centres were created as a direct response to the lack of opportunities and spaces for non-commercial (and typically) younger artists. Many of my favourite and the city's most celebrated names in contemporary art - Caroline Monnet, Pascale Grandmaison, Manon de Pauw, Judith Berry - had their start (and often continue to show) in these spaces. My personal favourite of the galleries is Occurence, with its focus on contemporary photography.
Momenta Biennale is currently running (from September 7 to October 22), offering a unique perspective on the arts as practiced here today (and excellent parties).
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Zab Café is a coffee roaster from Montreal that has an interesting story, four locations, and good coffee. It's small and smells of good coffee.
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Housed in an art deco building in Old Montreal, the PHI Foundation is focused on making contemporary art accessible to the largest number of people.
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I really recommend their cortado, where the rich, chocolatey espresso meets a dose of milk in a really satisfying combination.
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Sit on the sidewalk and eat the most delicious gnocchi for only $5, with a rich tomato sauce and imagine whatever you want in your own alternate reality.
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I was struck by the enthusiastic staff and the very tender exhibit about window coverings that invited us to consider what is shown and what is hidden.
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Here you will find a strange pyramid of benches that doubles as an art gallery, small fields & greenhouses tended by students from the nearby university.
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Olimpico attracts the young and beautiful. And Club Social feels like it's been there longer, and remains true to its roots. Both have terrific bombolini!
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The cannoli! A crisp shell that shatters a bit as you bite into it, first-class ricotta cheese. Not too sweet. Somehow light and filling at the same time.
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Caffe Italia has been popular with Italian families for decades & it never lost the homey feeling. The coffee is delicious. The vibe is welcoming and loud.
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Jean Talon market is the kind of place where there is a vast choice, but I'd bet that most regulars end up with their favorite sellers.
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The exhibits are free to the public, and very well curated by Isabelle de Mévieus and her team. The converted post office is worth a visit on its own.
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Somehow in the race to make everything chain stores Duluth has remained pretty much a family-run affair, skewed towards the hippy/punk end of the spectrum.
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