El Sabroso New York
Ecuadorian lunch counter
Working class restaurants in Manhattan have evolved since the 1920s from lunch counters like Lexington Candy Shop and S&P Luncheonette to secretive 'back alley' spots like El Sabroso, in the garment district.
Such counters occupied storefronts in strategic locations and big windows to lure customers—those storefronts became more valuable, rents increased, and no amount of daytime foot traffic could provide enough to cover that rent.
What to do? Close the doors, as most did, or find an even more strategic location, which meant moving off the street. What remains is hard to find.
One such is El Sabroso in a loading dock on 37th Street between 7th and 8th Avenues. Doors bang, hand trucks squeeze by, but none of this detracts from El Sabroso’s distinct calm and quiet vibe, where Irma and her two children, Evelyn and Tony operate the business founded by Irma’s husband long ago.
Street side, an easily missed blue sign hangs above pedestrian traffic darting between sidewalk sheds, passing within inches of men unloading trucks, is a seeker’s only waypoint.
Military grey steel doors are propped open to reveal a busy loading dock in a far corner of which a few meeting tables and enough folding chairs offset the kitchen where Tony prepares Ecuadorian lunches of stew chicken (Pollo Guisado), roasted pork (Pernil), roast chicken, goat (Chivo) and oxtail (Rabo), Pork chops (Chuleta al Horno) and fried fish (Pescado Frito).
It’s a satisfying wayback experience rewarded with good-tasting food, lovingly prepared.
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