Living in Belleville, I’m spoilt for choice for Asian restaurants. However, even though I know I might find better food a few dozen metres further on, I always seem to stop at Le President. The choice is good, the prices are reasonable and the staff – who seem to have been there forever – are always very friendly, but it also has something else missing from other local establishments – colourful glamour!

The restaurant is on the first floor, up a very impressive staircase, but before that you’re already welcomed by photos of previous guests, and this is where the name comes in. First here’s a smiling and slightly faded François Mitterand, then a brighter and less innocent Nicolas Sarkozy. And is that really Kanye West…?

The menu is primarily Cantonese, with many steamed dishes, but your attention is mostly drawn to the decoration which is pure Hong Kong. At weekends, there is also a good chance that you’ll be seated alongside a boisterous Chinese wedding party!