Archives for “market” tag

Asparagus, artichokes, iceberg lettuce, feathery carrots, strawberries, kiwi fruits, the last oranges, bread, eggs… with shopping list safely tucked in my pocket, and wheely shopping cart in tow, I’m off to my mercato rionale, the neighborhood market.

Forays always begin with warm smiles widening on my suppliers’ familiar faces, informal chit chat, warm greetings and small talk. The transactions come later. Through this relationship based on everyday contact, locals are raised trusting their purveyors.

My first stop is always Giuliana, the signora that sells me the best mesculun salad ever, broccoletti (broccoli raab), wild spring onions and other seasonal produce grown in her farm located 30 km south of the city. She always throws in an onion, celery rib and carrot in my bag, for mirepoix – it’s a given; and two generous bunches of basil and parsley. For free.

Next, I stop by Massimo, my poultry butcher. He sells free range chickens, brown eggs, and other non red meats. He’s known me since I was 5, when I’d come grocery shopping with my mother.

By now, my carrellino of goods is almost full, so I make my way to Anna, for fruit. Her kiosk is always decorated and stocked with exceptionally fresh seasonal goodies, the sweetest and juiciest fruits around. Here, I always end up buying more than planned.

Before I leave, I can either pick up fresh flowers at Franco’s stall, or, if I get the munchies, grab a slice of pizza sold at the bakery. At night a young crowd runs a beer station.

The New York Times once offered it as the ‘best money saving tip’ for Rome when visiting the Eternal City on a budget. But I think you should visit the Esquilino market (better known as the Piazza Vittorio market) not only for its cheap groceries, but also to witness Rome’s slow progression into a multicultural city, catering to the diverse needs of immigrants.

The market used to be one of Rome’s most important and traditional markets. It was located outdoors at the center of Piazza Vittorio and used to be run mostly by Italian –or rather Roman- vendors. As the Esquilino district evolved into a largely immigrant neighborhood, (it is now seen as Rome’s Chinatown), the market was moved indoors in a former milk plant just east of the piazza, and its vendors, as well as its shoppers, are now almost exclusively immigrants.

The Esquilino market is an interesting place to visit to immerse yourself in an exotic atmosphere. Here, you will be able to puzzle at the odd shapes of some vegetables; you will be overpowered by the bright colors and strong smells of spices; you will be frazzled by the din of a multitude of different languages.

Mostly, after having purchased 26 different types of rice and an equally high number of different spices, you will have had a different experience of the ever-evolving Eternal City.

Porta Portese is the biggest market in Rome and the first time you’ll go there you’ll get lost… for sure! It’s an institution in the city and if you live in Rome or if you are just visiting you must go there to experience this side of the Roman life.

You can find almost everything in it: dresses, new and old, furnishings, bikes, old cameras, posters, books, stamps. It is so big that it can be divided into different areas. My favourite is the one with the vintage clothes and stuff. You have to search under mountains of old clothes and objects to find something nice but then you will have something unique.

It is open only on Sunday morning and you’d better go there early. It’s never too early to get there! You will find less people and more stuff to buy…of course they are not going to completely run out but you will have even more choices.

Only one advice: if you see something that you like, don’t think, buy it! You won’t ever find it again!

Via del Pigneto is a street known for its nightlife. There are some bars where you can have an aperitif or drink something till late in the night. I used to go there more often in the evening since I discovered its daylife.

During the day this small street is kept alive by a nice market. From early in the morning you will find a lot of market stalls and kiosks selling food and other stuff. It’s not really big but for sure you will buy something after being convinced by one of the kiosks’ owners.

What I like the most about walking in this street in the morning is that I can breathe in the neighborhood life. It doesn’t seem to be in a huge city, but more like it’s meant to be in a small village. You will see the shopkeepers and local residents chatting and interact just like in a village and for sure you will be involved in their conversation.

Opening its doors in May 2012, the Fish Market has given us yet another delicious option for dining in Trastevere. Originally just one location in Rome’s Pietralata neighborhood, the folks behind the successful restaurant have graced us with another location, right in central Rome.

Upon entering you are greeted with a large fish case- the catch of the day. Then you will be seated, and explained the somewhat complicated ordering system. Why is that? Well, basically, you choose what you want, go to the cashier, pay for it, and then they bring it to your table. A bit of work on your part, but it’s worth it!

The choice of appetizers is large, and all delicious: fried fish, raw fish plates, seafood salads, and more. There are generally multiple kinds of fish on display for the day, as well as calamari, oysters, and shrimp, all either grilled or fried. It’s not a traditional sit-down restaurant, but it’s fun to walk around, scope out the food, and choose your fish.

The great thing about Fish Market Trastevere is that they are also open for lunch. Ordering functions the same pay-then-eat way, but there are only buffet options available for lunch, all still very good.

So if you’re in Trastevere and in the mood for daily caught seafood, head over to Fish Market. I personally like the hustle and bustle of this do-it-yourself eatery, especially since eating fish in Rome can be pricey, but with Fish Market, it definitely doesn’t have to be.