Just like the main character in the namesake book by Kazantzakis, O Kapetán Michális (“Captain Michael”) is the most unpretentious tavern I’ve ever been in Athens. And, in my opinion, it’s also the most authentic one among those to be found in the center. 

The place is very simple: a few tables in a very small location serving some great Greek food that can be enjoyed while drinking good ouzo or tsipouro. Really, nothing more than that, at least that is visible; but if we are talking about feelings I’m sure you will be carried away by the people there, for having lunch or dinner is like taking a trip to the deepest anthropological roots of Athens. Believe me: eating there is celebrating the joy of being alive.

It’s a place to be with a couple of friends after seeing a play at any of the theatres or cinemas around, or go to have traditional, home-made lunch.

Don’t try to connect to their non-existent wifi network, join the resistance and leave you phone in your pocket. And enjoy true luxury.