Proleće Belgrade
Where family gatherings meet Bohemia
Proleće is a restaurant where the interior makes you feel as if you're trapped in one of the movies filmed in Belgrade during the '70s, whereas the food is almost as good as my grandma’s.
For years, it has been a meeting place for students who would gather to discuss art and politics while enjoying home-cooked dishes for more than affordable prices.
I enjoy going to Proleće by myself and practising the art of people-watching. While waiting for my sauerkraut, I look at a young lady who has taken her granddad out for lunch; I’m witnessing father and son bonding at the table in front of me; I can hear a conversation between an older couple at the next table. Even after 50 years of marriage, he takes care that she gets her glass of red wine after lunch and explains to the waiter how important it is that the wine is not too chilled so that she wouldn’t get a sore throat. Behind me is a group of friends, my peers, and they put tables together. Someone has ordered sausages, another goulash or pilau, so they are sharing food and everyday-life updates.
The waiters are experienced enough to recognize if you are in the mood for small talk or if you want to be felt alone. Extra tip: if you want to feel like a genuine local, ask for litre-litre (1L of wine & soda water).
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