If you liked Matteo's article about Vico dei Lavandai, I'll take you through a hidden gem located close-by: the lovely courtyards at Alzaia Naviglio 4, easily one of my favorite spots of Old Milan.
These yards (corti) host the headquarters of Associazione Naviglio Grande as well as boutiques and private residences. If you look up you'll see the typical “case di ringhiera”, a very popular kind of housing that you can find pretty much everywhere in Milan, the ringhiera being the railing on the balcony. Each door on the balcony leads to a different apartment: there's usually a tiny kitchen and a big bedroom, as this room would quite likely host a whole family back in the day (something that we still find quite frustrating when house-hunting today: who needs that big a bedroom?!). The beauty of it is that everyone would share water and the main spaces and every yard would be a small village within the neighborhood.
The first yard at Alzaia Naviglio Grande 4 (the red) discloses the most artistic side of Milan through its labs and boutiques; the second (the rustic yellow building) well represents the housing of Old Milan's working class and evokes the way people used to live before “uncool” areas turned “cool”.
Fun fact: if you have the chance to travel around our region, especially among our rural villages, you'll see a lot of buildings painted in the traditional “giallo lombardo”, Lombard yellow. That's why many working-class houses around Milan are painted light yellow.
Find your way with 185 Insider Tips from our Local Spotters
Villa Invernizzi is an impressive Milan mansion with its own covey of pink flamingos. They spend their quiet lives in the garden, used to the attention.
by
Though Pinocchio's statue is easy to overlook, it serves as a reminder of Milan’s deep connection to Italian culture, inviting us to see beyond the surface
by
On Saint'Eustorgio square stands the statue of Saint Peter of Verona, the crual Inquisitor of Milan and Como, overseeing trials for witchcraft and sorcery.
by
AOC's charm is not just in the goods but in the story behind them, shared passionately by the founder’s son and his wife, who now run the store.
by
These fountains, both historic and functional, are reminders of Milan’s longstanding connection with mineral water—an overlooked aspect of the city’s past.
by
Casa 770 striking facade was built to bring a piece of Brooklyn’s spirit to Milan, it’s the only one in Europe, and now it serves as a cultural hub.
by
Locals say via Bagnera is haunted, with the wind carrying whispers of a gruesome legacy. Pause and imagine Milan’s hidden history in this quiet corner.
by
Backdoor43 in Milan is life experienced through a whiskey glass. This is the smallest bar in the world. 3 people maximum for each session, booked in advance.
by
"Tenoha Milano" has Nippon minimalism. No fluffy puff, no chichi, no HelloKitty. This place oozes craftsmanship, period. You'll wanna come back asap.
by
"Chinese Box" is a great place in Milan for people watching and aperitivo. Spend a couple of hours with a drink in hand at the 'terrace' and you'll know...
by
Milan's "Bagni Misteriosi" might seem like too fancy a swimming pool for you, but if you go and if you're like me, you'll want to go again & again...
by
"Circolo Magnolia" is one of Milan's best music entertainment venues. It's home to some of the best music festivals and you can relax under the trees...
by
185 Insider Tips from our local Spotters
Authentic Stories by Real People
Escape the Crowd & Travel Slow 🐌
✓ 0 Insider Tips from our local Spotters
✓ 185 Insider Tips