The 2000 block of Delancey Place (the most filmed residential street of Philadelphia) in Rittenhouse Square is one of the prettiest in the city. With its Civil War-era mansions and beautiful window boxes overflowing with flowers, you almost expect the residents to saunter out in Victorian garb.
Every June 16 the street is packed with fans of James Joyce’s Ulysses for an all-day out loud reading of the once scandalous masterpiece in celebration of Bloomsday. Chairs are lined up, singers from the Academy of Vocal Arts prepare their voices to sing “Shall I Wear a White Rose” or “Seaside Girls” or another tune from the book. Readers, famous and not, line up, grasping beloved, bookmarked copies. The literary lovers arrive. Excitement is palpable. Some stay for an hour, others for the duration. In the museum, tucked into one of its many bookshelves, is a copy of Joyce’s manuscript, probably the Rosenbach’s most famous holding.
But there are many other treats as well. A manuscript of Dylan Thomas’ Under Milkwood, a first edition of Jane Eyre, and an extensive collection of the Scottish Poet Robert Burns’ notes and poem drafts. It’s a goldmine for researchers. I personally get a thrill seeing Nathaniel Hawthorne’s copy of Moby Dick (a gift from their brief but intense friendship). Marianne Moore, the modernist poet, bequeathed her belongings: visit the recreation of her Greenwich village living room (see pic). There’s more: antiques, portraits, a beautiful garden and fun events and courses.
Find your way with 156 Insider Tips from our Local Spotters
"Laurel Hill Cemetery" in Philadelphia is equal parts public garden, sculpture park, historical campus and graveyard. It's a truly special spot...
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The "Fabric Workshop and Museum" in Philadelphia is one of the best places to see contemporary art - it's a central overlooks gem!
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"Material Culture" in Philadelphia isn't just a store. It is a world. A global journey. An aesthetic trek through history & cultures...
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The "Woodmere Art Museum" and its mansion tell the story of Philadelphia and its artists from the 1800s to now. Don't miss its gift shop or back gallery!
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"Duross & Langel" is a Philadelphia soap shop. Scented with fruit and herbs, I'm afraid they're works of art almost too beautiful to use in the shower...
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The "Simeone Foundation" Philadelphia is one of the finest private collections of classic cars in the US. This out-of-the-way treasure is a must see...
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The "Penn Museum of Anthropology" in Philadelphia would be a marquee attraction in a smaller town. Don't overlook this jewel and its collections, trust me.
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"Tria" Philadelphia is my favorite sophisticated yet cozy bar to explore the divine trinity of wine, beer and cheese. Perhaps my favorite is Sunday School.
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"Greene Street Consignment" in Philadelphia makes it easy to find great pieces on their tidy, colorful shelves. My recommendation: check the clearance racks!
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How "Night Kitchen" get its cinnamon rolls to absorb so much butter is one of the great mysteries of Philadelphia. It's my favorite bakery in Chestnut Hill.
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"Hokka Hokka" in Philadelphia is the sushi bar/restaurant my husband and I start so many of our dates. This balance of tasty and beauty is something else.
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Besides the packed schedule of shows, they are also a daytime coffee shop that opens its bar at noon. They have a great (rotating) wine selection as well!
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156 Insider Tips from our local Spotters
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