In my walks through the town (by far the most practical way to enjoy the city center) I try to navigate through smaller streets where my ears and lungs can have some respite from the hectic traffic. One of those quiet corners of downtown Belgrade is Kopitareva gradina (“Kopitar’s Garden”), an assortment of houses and buildings all in the 20th century architectural styles arranged around the tiniest park. One of those houses, the modest Art Nouveau house of geographer Jovan Cvijić is a museum nowadays.
Most of Kopitareva gradina is a playground frequented by children from the kindergarten opposite it, but there are a few benches around for us seniors as well. In my opinion, the square would profit a lot if there were less cars parked there so that it would resemble the garden mentioned in its name more. Then again, if it was too pretty perhaps the place would draw more people and lose some of its relaxed feel.
Another thing that makes Kopitareva gradina special is that – due to its good looks and low traffic – it is one of the classic places where film crews will come to shoot a scene or two. Though this will again endanger your peace, sometimes it can be a real treat watching from close by how a movie is made.
There are no cafés (or almost any businesses) around it, so if you want more than just relaxation you should bring your own snacks or drinks.