An acquaintance of mine tends to size up restaurants as “good” or “bad” based on how full the dining room is and how long the line waiting outside is. While I’m prone to using different measures to assess quality, if we used that measure, Antico Forno in the North End would qualify as “great”. Judging by service, food, and wine, I’d heartily agree.
I last wrote about visiting on a warm Saturday night in early August, meaning the streets were already congested with pedestrians. We could tell we were getting close because of the swarm of people congregating in front of the restaurant. Luckily, we were able to snag two seats at the bar, which serves the full menu without the wait.
We split the pasta special of the day – lobster ravioli – which was packed with only lobster, no filler, and wrapped in a lovely tomato cream sauce. Accompanying the ravioli was a Neapolitan pizza – with cheese – a recommendation from the bartender that was greatly appreciated. All washed down with a juicy Barbera that we picked on a whim, but also proved to be the bartender’s favorite.
On the most recent visit in November, we opted for more comfort-food-like creations, including arancini (filled with ground meat and peas) and gnocchi. Both were warm and satisfying, taking the edge off the oncoming chill of Boston’s winter.