This is one of those places where time has frozen. Like many other places in Lisbon’s old neighbourhoods where you can still witness colours, shapes, objects and persons from years ago, this place is the gathering spot of many locals of all ages to have a drink and chat a little and stay up to date on the neighbourhood’s news. It looks and feels like the 70s. The usual customers actually asked the owner not to change the look!

But this doesn’t sum up Leitaria Moderna’s essence. This is a small coffee shop, literally translated to “Modern Creamery”, ideal and a first choice for the locals to have breakfast early in the morning or to have a coffee “Portuguese style” which we call “bica” – a strong espresso.

Here you can have a very cheap breakfast of bread, cakes, toasts, milk, juices, tea, coffee and more in the company of the old ladies that live nearby. It opens at 07:00 so it’s ideal for morning people to start their day full of energy and in a good mood that you get from the lady behind the counter, Celeste, who’s always smiling.

At the end of day it’s the men’s time to gather here for a beer or a glass of wine; a “taça” or “tacinha” as they call it. A great time to chat and learn about old time stories. You can find me here often chatting with the neighbours over a glass of wine or beer. Feel free to join us!