Kifli, or kifle as we say in Serbia, are crescent-shaped bread rolls eaten mostly as a breakfast delicacy. Previously savored with butter and jam, they have now evolved into various sweet or salty varieties. One place that makes its living almost exclusively from their kifle is a miniature bakery "Čarli" (Charlie in Serbian transliteration).
"Čarli" has been in my neighborhood for decades now. The sweet smell of their kifle is one of those scents that can bring me back to my childhood days, in the same way as the small, early 1980s interior transports me to the long gone days of socialist Yugoslavia. The lovely ladies serving have not changed either as far as I can remember. I cannot stop admiring their talent to stay efficient and extremely (almost unpleasantly) fast while still managing to ask the regulars about their health and to send greetings to our folks at home. One of the reasons that explains how this is possible is that there is not much to choose from: the bakery's output is limited only to kilfe coming in "sweet" (slatke, but actually neutral) and salty (slane) variations and in užički puž ("Užice Snail") a spirally rolled burek where you can choose between one with meat, cream cheese or spinach-cum-cheese.
You might think this is not much of a choice, but let me assure you that once you taste how good these are, you will be in a serious dilemma about what to order the next time you return!
Find your way with 199 Insider Tips from our Local Spotters
"Belgrade Design District" used to be an abandoned shopping mall - now it's an emerging space where established artists and designers showcase their work!
by
"Bioskop Zvezda" in Belgrade is an impressive, historical, occupied, or should we say liberated cinema that's run by a small group of enthusiastic people.
by
"Beton Hala", or 'Concrete Hall' in Belgrade is a popular restaurant oasis with restaurants lined up just 10m from the Sava. Everything's quality here...
by
"Cetinjska 15" is Belgrade's new hotspot. It's the Serbian Kreuzberg at what once used to be a beer factory. Much more worth it than Skadarlija...
by
"Savska Promenada" Belgrade is a brand-new walking zone on the bank of the river Sava. It's a perfect place w/ many terraces for working out brain & body.
by
"The Clock" is a mural in Belgrade created in 2011. It's a working clock made of 20,000 LEDs. It's a symbol of time passing and a new, digital era...
by
The "Televizorke" in Belgrade always take my childhood, to idyllic Yugoslavia, when this building with the windows that look like televisions was built...
by
In Belgrade there aren't many murals, though the art form has gained recognition in last few decades. One of these rare examples is on the garden wall...
by
The "Kaimaktsalan Watchtower" in Belgrade was constructed by stones brought back from its namesake 1916 battle. This monument always gives me goosebumps...
by
"Daska & Veslo" offers a perfect getaway from Belgrade's city jungle. Stand up paddling is something you should try at least once, so why not here?
by
199 Insider Tips from our local Spotters
Authentic Stories by Real People
Escape the Crowd & Travel Slow 🐌
✓ 0 Insider Tips from our local Spotters
✓ 199 Insider Tips