Welcome to Kypseli. This neighbourhood, which had its golden age in the middle of the 20th century but is becoming the new Koukaki, is a place where you can almost see as many Africans (and immigrants from other places) as Greeks, and this has created a unique dynamic in the air. It's far from what is typically considered the pretty side of Athens, but the neighbourhood's namesake ('kypseli' means 'hive' in this context) seems more apt than ever.
If Kypseli is the Hive, Fokionos Negri St is the Hive's royal courtyard (just bare with me and my bee hive/palace analogy!) This pedestrian zone built in the '30s has lost much of its former glamour, but, when I went there for the first time (embarrassingly recently), I couldn't help but be completely taken aback by the large, ancient plane trees in the middle of it and the enchantingly relaxed atmosphere.
If Fokionos Negri is the Royal Chamber, SCRY Coffee Bar is the honey throne. I was first invited to this cafe/bar by a common friend (Panagiotis) I have with the owner, Vassilis. SCRY has been around since 2004 but very recently -and consciously- changed its whole philosophy: it is now a cozy third wave coffee bar, which means amazing single-origin brews by Caffe del Doge in a variety of impressive preparations. You've never had filter coffee taste this good.
Kypseli is worth a shot - and not just of the finest espresso.
Negri Fokionos 34
Double Espresso:
€
3.20
+30
2108236551
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I've been here with friends and they've all been amazed at the low prices, cool vibe and '90s memorabilia. Even the cocktails are named after Pokemon!
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It's really close to both Akropoli and Syggrou-Fix metro station, it has a nice vibe, a great selection of Greek international dishes and large portions!
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Once you enter, you will be amazed by the Japanese-cool decoration, especially by the huge blue mural with the 3D elements and the pink circle.
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Although Kalos Aeras is located on a busy road, there is no noise penetrating the leafy veranda, and stepping into the house is like time-traveling back to the 60s.
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Plateia Proskopon is surely not as hip as Plateia Varnava or other spots in Pagrati but has a unique atmosphere.
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I just love the chocolate-covered nuts in 1001 Geyseis! I recently tried the cocoa-covered pecan nuts and hopefully one day I will try all the variety the store has to offer!
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Entering Agias Zonis is like getting into a literal comfort zone. Although it starts from the bustling pedestrian zone of Fokionos Negri, Agias Zonis is a well-kept secret.
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There are actually three falafel places located next to each other in Plateia Vathis (Vathis square). All three places are equally good, offering huge portions for a great price.
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After filling your basket with pickled mushrooms and the lavash puff bread, try the candy bars with the illustrated packaging reminding you of the Soviet Union days.
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"O Lefteris" in Athens makes souvlaki the way our fathers & grandfathers like them best: no gyros, no tzatziki, no fries; just meat, pita, tomato & onion.
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