Kalenić, one of the most popular open markets in the city, is worth a visit even if you are not planning to spend your time in Belgrade cooking. It is, most of all, a very local and authentic visual experience.

Upon wandering inside the maze, bursting with freshness and vivid colors, when you get over the initial sensory overload, you will realize that you are not only allowed, but also expected to touch and smell most of the produce, and maybe you will even be encouraged to try “how sweet the strawberry is, pure honey!”.

You will also soon realize that there is a lot of social activity going on -many Belgraders have had “their own” salad or potato seller for years and years- so this is a chance to catch up and exchange world views.

Apart from fruits and vegetables, you can find flowers, potted herbs, the best selection of wild sea fish (for wild river fish, you’d better go to Zemun open market, where they buy it directly from Danube fishermen), spices, teas, forest mushrooms, cheeses, jams… if it is not sold in Kalenić, it probably isn’t considered edible in this part of the world.

It is best to arrive before 14:00 on weekends and to buy from authentic farmers, recognizable mostly by their sunburnt faces, old age and specialized selection at their stalls.

I recommend finishing the ritual in one of the many cafes and kafanas dotted around the area.