By sharing the name with one of the most iconic landmarks of the city, this café gives one of the best views over Pobednik, the Victor. Even though it's seated at Kalemegdan, the most popular Belgrade's park and touristic area, I don't see many tourists here, probably because it takes some effort to find the place.
The entrance is very close to Kralj Kapija (the King's Gate), next to the Roman well. There's a tiny passage on your right that leads directly to the café.
I have to warn you, the service is slow which in this case is an absolute advantage. It always takes some time for waiters to acknowledge I'm there. However, once I get my Turkish coffee (you can't get it in many place nowadays), they also forget about my existence so they don't bother me asking if I need anything else every 15 minutes. This gives me a perfect chance to enjoy in one of the most remarkable views in Belgrade, with the confluence of Sava and Danube, together with the Victor (currently removed for restoration) on my right and the big stairs of Kalemegdan on my left.
The atmosphere is pretty laid back: whenever I stay a bit longer I notice that there's usually one CD playing all over again but that's the beauty of this place – to have a moment for yourself in an urban jungle.
Extra tip – come here for the sunset; you'll thank me later!
Mali Kalemegdan
Turkish coffee:
RSD
150
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