Nobody ever really ventures into the sedate neighbourhood of Aranyhegy (Golden Hill) if they don’t live there, which means most of us are missing out on one of Budapest’s strangest buildings. The Pogány-torony (Pagan tower) was built in 1934, on the corner of what are now the Jutas and Pogánytorony streets, close to the hill’s summit. It was the brainchild of the Turanian Society, founded in 1910, with the aim of reconnecting with the ancient, pre-Christian roots of the Hungarians. Legend has it that upon converting his kingdom to Christianity, Saint Stephen unleashed a curse of the ancient Hungarian shamans, whereby Hungarians would always remain divided until the return to their true, pagan faith.
Given the trauma of Hungary’s territorial loss after WWI, the Turanian Society felt the time had arrived, and planned the tower to be the first of many places of worship for the resurrected faith. The statue of a turul bird, the mythical totemic animal of Hungary, was placed on top, but it has sadly been lost. None of the other monuments were ever built, and today the tower is quite derelict and overrun with vegetation, surrounded by an eerie, Gothic folk-tale-meets-Tolkien charm.
The easiest transportation option is the regional train connection from Nyugati station to the Aranyvölgy stop, or alternatively bus 160 from Óbuda to the Kubik utca stop, from the first stop the tower can be reached by a 10-15 minutes’ walk, from the second, the walk lasts about 20-25 minutes.
Budapest
HUF
free
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Café Csiga is a classic local spot, with it's laid-back atmosphere and daily menu it has a lot of regulars, who come often for a good lunch, café or beer.
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Centrál Kávéház in Budapest is a very elegant, old-style coffee house and restaurant. I recommend visiting if you want to see what Pest used to look like.
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MinuteBistro has a “daily menu” option, which can come with a soup combined either with salad or pasta/risotto (gluten-free pasta option is available too).
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Whether you're seeking a moment to relax or simply admiring the beauty of the area, the square will offer an escape from the chaos of everyday life.
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Take a seat right by the window where you can enjoy your treats with your morning coffee while looking outside at how the world moves at a different pace.
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I make sure to visit this place, at least once per month and always eat the same Gallet cake and drink some coffee or tea from their selections.
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Imagine a coffee with a small doze of mascarpone topping up with an espresso, which is a real delight for your taste buds, and a sprinkle of cocoa powder.
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On the menu there is a lot of different and unique sounding teas, and I would recommend trying the dark chocolate tea with a sip of cream on the side.
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This is a family-owned business, where the food tastes homemade. Every meal you choose feels like your family cooked it with so much love.
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This place might seem a bit retro to the people who pass by, but one thing is certain: some things are always great, no matter how much time passes.
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You can find many different kinds of cheesecakes here but one standout recommendation is the cottage cheese and raspberry, a unique Hungarian taste.
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Tortuga és Pohánka blends Mexican and Hungarian flavors in Budapest’s VII. District, offering 100% sourdough bread and authentic food made with heart.
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176 Insider Tips from our local Spotters
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