Apr 19, 2025

Betto e Mary Rome

No ties allowed

""Betto e Mary" in Rome is a cosy, chaotic restaurant covered with postcards & ties that did not adhere to the 'no ties!' dress code. Come with an appetite!"

The walls of Betto e Mary are plastered with postcards, photos and Roman proverbs, but it’s the white sign at the back that caught my eye: a picture of a man wearing a tie with the caption “Io non posso entrare” (“I can’t enter”). Take another look at the walls and you’ll see the random selection of ties on display, apparently confiscated from diners who were unaware of the dress code.

When you come to Betto e Mary there’s no need to dress up. Just make sure you come with an appetite, and ideally carnivorous cravings. There’s no written menu. The waiter pulls up a chair at your table and recites the menu for the day, which usually ranges from classic Roman pasta dishes like carbonara and amatriciana to second courses that consist of most animals, and most parts of the animal. If you’ve ever wanted to try horse, this is your chance.

Officially, there are no vegetarian dishes on the menu apart from cacio e pepe, but if you ask nicely they’ll make you a vegetarian carbonara with courgette (after gently ridiculing you, of course).

Betto e Mary is cosy and chaotic, a Torpignattara institution that’s slowly being discovered by outsiders. Tipping is not expected at Roman restaurants, but it’s worth leaving a few extra euros just to hear the elderly Mary shout “Manciaaaaaaaa!” (“Tip!”)

021-spoon-and-fork-1
Restaurants

About this spot

Via dei Savorgnan 99

Meal with wine:

25

0664771096

Find your way with 152 Insider Tips from our Local Spotters

Discover hidden gems and all our locals’ favourites! Get full access to our Rome guide.

Nice place right!? There’s so much more to discover:

Discover all other hidden gems in Rome

SiTenne

Dressing the past

"SiTenne" in Rome isn't just a vintage clothes shop. I wouldn't have fallen in love with it if it was. You'll always find a perfect, friendly ambience here

026-thrift-shop-1
Shopping

by

Rudy

Di Giacomo

Apr 21, 2025

CSOA eXSnia

Fight for a better Rome

CSOA eXSnia in Rome is in my opinion one of the most culturally vivid and beautiful places in the city, a 'self-managed occupied social center'...

002-building
Art & culture
029-guitar-instrument-1
Music
017-plant-1
Relaxing

by

Matteo

Mueller-Thies

Apr 20, 2025

Osteria Dar Bruttone

In the name of tradition

"Osteria Dar Bruttone" in Rome makes some of tastiest carbonara (with or without artichokes) you can get your hands on. Also try their Porchetta...

021-spoon-and-fork-1
Restaurants

by

Max

Giudice

Apr 19, 2025

Cecilia Metella's Tomb

A peaceful garden

"Cecilia Metella's Tomb" is a bit outside Rome's city center, but I love coming here to write among the ancient buildings & the Appia Antica road...

002-building
Art & culture
017-plant-1
Relaxing

by

Max

Giudice

Apr 19, 2025

Trajan's Market Walkway

A path through history

"Trajan's Market Walkway" in Rome is a useful shortcut that takes you to Monti, but I use it primarily as a place to stop & soak up the ancient atmosphere.

002-building
Art & culture
017-plant-1
Relaxing

by

Alexandra

Turney

Apr 19, 2025

Via Casilina Vecchia

The aqueduct neighbourhood

"Via Casilina Vecchia" is, for me, one of the most intriguing neighbourhoods in Rome. It feels invisible to the rest of the city & forgotten by modernity.

002-building
Art & culture
017-plant-1
Relaxing

by

Alexandra

Turney

Apr 19, 2025

Pasticceria Boccione

Historic Jewish bakery

"Pasticceria Boccione" in Rome is not for you if you're after pretty, Instagrammable desserts! But every pastry is just delicious in this Jewish bakery...

024-burger-1
Snacks

by

Alexandra

Turney

Apr 19, 2025

La Fraschetta

Cheap wine and a friendly welcome

"La Fraschetta" is a neighborhood hangout in Rome for the locals -- Sandro doesn't get many customers who aren't Italian men in their fifties or older!

028-beach-bar-1
Bars
024-burger-1
Snacks

by

Alexandra

Turney

Apr 19, 2025

Via Piccolomini

An optical illusion

Ride a scooter on "Via Piccolomini" in Rome and, as you get closer to St Peter's Basilica, you'll actually see it shrinking instead of growing closer!

002-building
Art & culture
017-plant-1
Relaxing

by

Alexandra

Turney

Apr 19, 2025

Villa dei Quintili

Atmospheric Roman villa

"Villa dei Quintili" is an archaeological site on Rome's Appia Antica. Important scenes of my novel 'In Exile' take place here; it's just so atmospheric.

002-building
Art & culture
017-plant-1
Relaxing

by

Alexandra

Turney

Apr 19, 2025

Bar Giolitti

A Testaccio institution

"Bar Giolitti" is one of my favorite places in Testaccio, Rome, for a gelato or a coffee at the bar. I also like sitting at one of the tables outside...

028-beach-bar-1
Bars
020-coffee-cup-1
Coffee & tea

by

Alexandra

Turney

Apr 19, 2025

Chourmo

Cosy bar in Torpignattara

"Chourmo" is a cosy, tiny bar in Certosa, Roma. It's a place to mingle, meet your neighbours over a Campari or a glass of wine. Jazz nights on Saturdays...

028-beach-bar-1
Bars

by

Alexandra

Turney

Apr 19, 2025

Heading to Rome?

152 Insider Tips from our local Spotters

Authentic Stories by Real People

Escape the Crowd & Travel Slow 🐌

... for just €9.99

Heading to Rome?

0 Insider Tips from our local Spotters

152 Insider Tips

✓ Escape the Crowds

✓ Find Spots nearby

✓ Authentic Stories

... for just €9.99

App Download Download our app

City guides by those who know the city in and out!

Our Locals' Favorite Restaurants

Our team loves Rome

Get to know our other Spotters from Rome

As featured on:

New-York-Times
the-guardian
mashable
the-sunday-times
false
0
false
25
Filters