La Certosa is a neighbourhood within a neighbourhood – a couple of streets in Torpignattara, east of the city centre, characterised by one and two-storey buildings and plenty of “romanità”.
Chourmo is a cosy bar that marks the beginning of the Certosa neighbourhood. Somewhat unusually, it's a bar with its own philosophy. The name “Chourmo” comes from a French novel set in Marseilles and translates literally as “crew”, referring to the communal spirit of the neighbourhood. It’s a place to mingle, to meet your neighbours over a Campari or a €3 glass of wine. The bar is so tiny that the crowds tend to spill out on to the streets. Chourmo’s compact size also means that you can’t help but rub elbows with the people next to you. It’s the kind of place where you don’t feel awkward drinking on your own, because you’re bound to end up chatting with someone. Get to know your neighbours! Or rather, my neighbours...
There are regular jazz nights on Saturday, starting at around 9pm. You might not get to sit down, and you’ll probably find yourself awkwardly wedged in a doorway, but that’s all part of the experience, and the "Chourmo spirit".
Find your way with 152 Insider Tips from our Local Spotters
CSOA eXSnia in Rome is in my opinion one of the most culturally vivid and beautiful places in the city, a 'self-managed occupied social center'...
by
"Osteria Dar Bruttone" in Rome makes some of tastiest carbonara (with or without artichokes) you can get your hands on. Also try their Porchetta...
by
"Cecilia Metella's Tomb" is a bit outside Rome's city center, but I love coming here to write among the ancient buildings & the Appia Antica road...
by
"Trajan's Market Walkway" in Rome is a useful shortcut that takes you to Monti, but I use it primarily as a place to stop & soak up the ancient atmosphere.
by
"Via Casilina Vecchia" is, for me, one of the most intriguing neighbourhoods in Rome. It feels invisible to the rest of the city & forgotten by modernity.
by
"Pasticceria Boccione" in Rome is not for you if you're after pretty, Instagrammable desserts! But every pastry is just delicious in this Jewish bakery...
by
"La Fraschetta" is a neighborhood hangout in Rome for the locals -- Sandro doesn't get many customers who aren't Italian men in their fifties or older!
by
Ride a scooter on "Via Piccolomini" in Rome and, as you get closer to St Peter's Basilica, you'll actually see it shrinking instead of growing closer!
by
"Villa dei Quintili" is an archaeological site on Rome's Appia Antica. Important scenes of my novel 'In Exile' take place here; it's just so atmospheric.
by
"Bar Giolitti" is one of my favorite places in Testaccio, Rome, for a gelato or a coffee at the bar. I also like sitting at one of the tables outside...
by
"Villa Farnesina" in Rome isn't exactly unknown, but few tourists visit it. Come here to experience Raphael in peace & tranquility in a Renaissance villa.
by
152 Insider Tips from our local Spotters
Authentic Stories by Real People
Escape the Crowd & Travel Slow 🐌
✓ 0 Insider Tips from our local Spotters
✓ 152 Insider Tips