La Certosa is a neighbourhood within a neighbourhood – a couple of streets in Torpignattara, east of the city centre, characterised by one and two-storey buildings and plenty of “romanità”.

Chourmo is a cosy bar that marks the beginning of the Certosa neighbourhood. Somewhat unusually, it’s a bar with its own philosophy. The name “Chourmo” comes from a French novel set in Marseilles and translates literally as “crew”, referring to the communal spirit of the neighbourhood. It’s a place to mingle, to meet your neighbours over a Campari or a €3 glass of wine. The bar is so tiny that the crowds tend to spill out on to the streets. Chourmo’s compact size also means that you can’t help but rub elbows with the people next to you. It’s the kind of place where you don’t feel awkward drinking on your own, because you’re bound to end up chatting with someone. Get to know your neighbours! Or rather, my neighbours…

There are regular jazz nights on Saturday, starting at around 9pm. You might not get to sit down, and you’ll probably find yourself awkwardly wedged in a doorway, but that’s all part of the experience, and the “Chourmo spirit”.