Another Byzantine gem in Ano Poli (Upper City) is the Church of Prophet Elijah. As usual, its initial dedication is unknown, however, the plan type clearly alludes to a monastery church. After the liberation of Thessaloniki from the Ottomans in 1912 it was dedicated to the aforementioned Prophet, because its Ottoman name (as a mosque), Sarayli camii, was similar to the Greek version of Elijah (Elias or Lias).
The building was perhaps built in the middle or in the second half of the 14th century. That period was characterized by unprecedented artistic flourishing in the city. In the narthex, there are beautiful frescoes that depict Saints and biblical scenes, such as the massacre of the holy innocents. That representation seems to be a deliberate choice because in 1387 Thessaloniki was captured for the first time by the Ottomans, who forcibly seized young boys from Christian families and forced them to convert to Islam. For this reason, that church is so special to me. It’s a place of memory, where I reflect on the trials our ancestors faced. From a stylistic point of view, the figures, especially their faces, are so innovative, that allude to Italian Trecento painting.
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I have tried many pies in many spots, not exclusively in Thessaloniki, but those that I have really fallen in love with are the pies of “Paradosiako”! That Greek word means “Traditional”.
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A must-see gem of Thessaloniki is a tiny church in Ano Poli (Upper City) district, hidden behind an enclosure. Its name is Agios Nikolaos Orfanos (St. Nicholas of the Orphans).
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The building dates back to ca. 1200 and it was in function until 1940! During the Ottoman period, it was known as Koule Hamam. It was constructed in a period during which the tradition of public baths was revived after the Late Antiquity.
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It’s one of the most historic churches in Thessaloniki, but unfortunately, not even my fellow citizens are aware of that, let alone visitors of the city
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In the eastern part of Thessaloniki, you can find the “paradise of meat”, the restaurant “Nea Diagonios” (literally, “New Diagonal”). Although the area is not touristy, it is worth visiting (don’t worry, there is a menu in English too).
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Over 40 different interactive exhibits are waiting for you to experience incredible tricks, take awesome photos and discover the secrets and phenomena behind them!
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The best place to have a traditional breakfast, which hotels usually don’t offer, is “Katselis”! There are two branches; one near the train station and one in the city's eastern part.
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One of my favorite Byzantine monuments in Thessaloniki is the church of the Holy Apostles. What makes it unique is the combination of gorgeous frescoes and mosaics; even though the latter, only fragments are preserved!
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The current building was constructed in 1900 according to the design of the prominent Italian architect Vitaliano Poselli, who embellished our city with monuments of exceptional beauty.
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It was constructed in 1903 and is dedicated to the Holy Mother of God (in Armenian: Sourp Asdvadzadzin). From an architectural point of view, Poselli chose the eclectic style, that is, to combine different traditions.
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What makes this church unique are the neo-gothic pointed arches and the luminous stained-glass windows, which depict Saints and biblical scenes.
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96 Insider Tips from our local Spotters
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