Music

When they connect the heart of Students’ city with the metro, if ever, they should make the stop under Stroeja. Not only because its name (Construction Site) will commemorate the epic Sofia subway project, which commenced in the 70s, but because Stroeja is the bar/club/live alternative music venue which, in the last fourteen years, has invariously managed to lure Sofianites far out to the dark corners of Students’ city. That makes it legendary, and add to that that it’s near John Lennon street. When all else is dying, there’s always action in Stroeja.

The program is an all-around mix of good music: thematic parties dedicated to Britpop, rock’n'roll, or swing, tribute evenings and of course, live concerts by the best Bulgarian bands, as well as international acts. Stroeja & associates have the most ambitious concert program in Sofia. But even when there’s nothing, Stroeja is a lively (and noisy) place with several bars, table football and people who party.

Sporadically they organize the Sunday Art Report – an extremely pleasant soiree with a menu of book readings, theater, screenings and concerts. I suspect it increases the reading rate in the district by 50%.

We are now holding our breath for the rumored opening of their second location in the center. Meanwhile, check Stroeja’s website and Facebook for details on upcoming events. Its ambition is to function as something of a media, and among other things you can find mp3s of Bulgarian bands for free listening.

With the coming of spring, the outside bar is now open from 12:00 noon!

New vinyl is not yet a big mania in Bulgaria. But what’s a better souvenir from a place than its own obscure pop music? I might surprise somebody by saying that there is very good stuff among old Bulgarian estrada.

Estrada, from the Italian for “stage” and the music associated with it, is the Eastern block’s equivalent of pop. Most estrada was authored by professional committees, writing and arranging songs for the country’s selected talents. As a result there are some amazing vocal performances and orchestrations in there – lPasha Hristova, Lea Ivanova, even the omnipresent Lili (Ivanova) to name a few. A part of estrada were western hits, resung in Bulgarian sometimes to a great comical effect – a delight for cover lovers. And then there are the Soviet releases of bands such as the Rolling Stones, which are good collectibles, I imagine.

Many shops sell old records, but the Pop Bogomil one charms with its unfathomable concept – on 10 m2 they also sell second hand sportswear, knitwear and bicycles. It’s a hassle-free place where you can rummage through strange junk as much as you like. And, among the ubiquitous musical numbers of the Iron Curtain (classics, disco, estrada), there are often unusual suspects to be found.

If we talk local, you should definitely eat at a real Bulgarian kruchma – the word “pub”, which it means, cannot truly deliver all the juice and aromas inherent. Oh, this temple of the soul, smelling of lyutenitsa, brew yeast and meatballs – it attends to your bodily needs and brings you in harmony with your spiritual being.

“Sam Doydoh” is a homage to this concept with a few special twists. Based in a ramshackle house in the center’s periphery, it doesn’t even have a sign on its door, except the coal writing on the wall and a wooden board.

The owner started it as a place to gather his friends – all devotees of the almost extinct kafana, where conversations and spirits flow freely from table to table. On the wall hang caricatures of the regulars: some – notorious pub heroes, others – prominent figures of the cultural scene, third both. As the rest of the brick-a-brack interior (the ski on the wall, the book quotes, the peculiar bathroom design) they reflect the odd sense of humor that helped this scene survive long hard times. Lethal to all pretense and marred by an aura of tipsiness and smoke, it’s a place for the soul like no other. The name – “I came by myself” – is also a pledge to its spiritual services. No man shall be an island.

Quite often the regulars stage themselves jazz concerts, and the high degrees of the mood are guaranteed. Be early to get a seat.

Hardly in the most romantic place, albeit under the so-called “Lover’s bridge“, but right on one of the busiest road arteries in town (Bulgaria blvd.) – it is a surprise that the yard of Radio Café is actually a pleasant place to be in the summer! Sitting down on the low garden furniture, enjoying the puffs and the green grass and sipping on cocktails, you can almost imagine that there isn’t a boulevard behind the bushes.

One thing that helps are the high music levels: a plus of this location is that they can make a lot of noise, which they do. As most indoor bars and clubs close during the summer months, this becomes an even more intense party location. The other reason I recommend it is that it is among the few places profiled in an indie/Britpop/post punk/new wave direction, a type of music I personally prefer to drink my beer to…

OK, as almost everywhere in Bulgaria the music choice tends to be a bit dated – even in fashionable areas such as indie it mostly rests with the classics…  But who cares when everyone is jumping and singing out loud, and is generally up-the-cherry-tree, as we say? Parties happen easily here, and they also have live shows – follow their facebook for events.

The menu in the house is totally worth going there – so original and delicious. Although I’m definitely not a vegetarian cuisine lover, that place has so much to offer. There is something for breakfast, lunch and dinner, but my favourites are the desserts.

Their cakes, chocolate truffles and biscuits and other delicious sweet treats are all homemade in their kitchen. The fragrance of chocolate and cinnamon fills the air, together with the bouquet of different teas. The house offers white, green, black, fruit and herbal tees in various mixtures. You’ll definitely find a tea for your own taste, mood or desire. There’s even a tea shop.

Another thing worth mentioning is the atmosphere of the place. In the non smoking tea house there are not too many tables, but I’ve always found a free spot. The art sensation is brought by the temporary exhibitions that are held there. Photo or picture exhibitions make the place look like a gallery and are part of the interior. Nowadays there is held the painting exhibition “Cities, people and animals” by a Bulgarian female artist (28.09 – 30.11.2011).

The last to be added is the music – jazz, soul and chill out. In this magnificent atmosphere often live music is played too.

Jazz, art and sweet fragrances make you hungry to come again!