My most usual walk out of the city center leads to Profesorska Kolonija, a garden suburb laid out in the 1930s. Even though socialist blocks as well as additions made by Belgrade’s new rich have made their incursions, modest one-floor houses of university professors still prevail in its green, quiet streets. Perhaps the nicest part about it all is that, along with a dozen small streets, the neighborhood also has three small parks. Next to one of them, in a spacious and shady courtyard, lies Demode, until recently the only café in the whole of this purely residential area.

Strangely enough, though Demode has been in business here for roughly two decades, it was never hugely popular or trendy. For that matter, I must say that I’ve never seen it full. There are always people around: locals walking their dogs, friends of owners and waiters, parents with kids, a few students in the know – but more often empty tables outnumber those taken. Since the service, music and drinks are all fine (and some drinks, like their rakijas, are excellent), the explanation must be that this situation endures because of its tucked-up position. On one side this is kind a pity, on the other – if you prefer a relaxed place with good drinks, like I do – we shouldn’t complain!

Finally, I need to stress that Demode is best enjoyed in months when you can sit on its terrace. In wintertime it is just an ordinary café in a lovely location.