This is one of the spots where I deliberated long whether to share it with the world or to keep it for myself. Eventually I got worried that Lili M is too obscure and would close down if we don’t eat there more often! I also reckoned that not many of you will follow my advice and take the leap of faith and enter this unseemly old bakery.

Nothing makes sense here, especially in any commercial way. So much so that I could write a fine story only by describing it. The bakery is situated on Zeleni Venac, the busiest bus terminal in Belgrade. Its building is falling to pieces and there are street sellers in front of it. Instead of being called simply “Blaževski” and profit from the good reputation bakers with Macedonian surnames enjoy in Belgrade, it has this ludicrous name. Anyhow, you won’t see the name of the bakery anywhere. The staff, including the owner – a short moustached guy, is cold and seemingly indifferent. The interior is dull and, if you decide to eat there, you will munch next to their accountancy files and ball pens!

Yet their burek with cheese (the only one they do nowadays) ranks among the best I’ve ever tried – lip-smacking, melting in your mouth, just the right amount of cheese. The biggest problem here is that they only bake a pan of four every half an hour. Which means that if I get there first there will be none for you!