Once upon a time, there was a Bermuda triangle in the middle of Belgrade. However, unlike the real one, the one in Belgrade had missing days and nights that were well-oiled with a glass (or more) of rakija (Serbian plum brandy), since it was located between kafanas Grmeč, Šumatovac and Pod lipom.
Since I moved to Belgrade, I have been listening about poets, actors, musicians and other famous locals who used to spend their bohemian days in this area.
After years of dealing with some property issues, Grmeč started welcoming guests again and I always feel super lucky whenever I manage to get a table at lunch hours. Once seated, it is easy for your mind to drift away among those checkered tablecloths, wooden chairs, old-school waiters and photographs of people that shaped Belgrade's scene during the last century.
Grmeč is one of the rare places suitable for having an all-generation family lunch, a beer with friends, a romantic date, or just for taking some time for yourself to read, write or just enjoy people-watching. Sometimes I sit there surrounded by journalists, sometimes lawyers, students, or grandmas.
Yes, the food is good (my personal favorite is the roasted lamb prepared in milk and ribs with kajmak -- a creamy dairy product similar to clotted cream) but I usually come to Grmeč for the atmosphere.
"Balkan Ekspres restaurant" is in Belgrade's Zemun, a city of its own. This place is worth visiting if only just for the views from inside the train car...
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Košutnjak, a woods 20 minutes from the city center by bus, spreads over more than 300 hectares of land and offers many paths and spots to explore.
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Silosi are an old industrial place reimagined as a cultural and vibrant riverside spot with different kinds of festivals organized around it occasionally.
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"Aleksandar Club Ski Track" outside Belgrade, in the woods, is curiously just as good in winter as it is in summer. The best views and atmosphere here...
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"Utopia" is a bookstore in Belgrade that has everything I'm interested in, plus some more! It's a miracle it exists - and I didn't know about it till now!
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"New Balkan Cuisine Iva" in Belgrade has brought a breath of fresh air into the city's lukewarm gastro scene. Find contemporary, local Serbian dishes here.
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This is a restaurant in a very hidden inner yard. It's run by three sisters. I keep coming back for the little details - it's like a playground for food.
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I tend to come early enough to catch a slice of the daily cake - carrot cake is a classic here, and it's really tasty!
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"U10 Art Space" was started in Belgrade in 2012. It blends a professional approach together with openness, honest enthusiasm and up-and-coming artists!
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"Meze Restaurant" in New Belgrade is in an unusual location, but believe me, this place makes amazing Greek food...
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