Grmeč Belgrade
The spirit of bohemian days
Once upon a time, there was a Bermuda triangle in the middle of Belgrade. However, unlike the real one, the one in Belgrade had missing days and nights that were well-oiled with a glass (or more) of rakija (Serbian plum brandy), since it was located between kafanas Grmeč, Šumatovac and Pod lipom.
Since I moved to Belgrade, I have been listening about poets, actors, musicians and other famous locals who used to spend their bohemian days in this area.
After years of dealing with some property issues, Grmeč started welcoming guests again and I always feel super lucky whenever I manage to get a table at lunch hours. Once seated, it is easy for your mind to drift away among those checkered tablecloths, wooden chairs, old-school waiters and photographs of people that shaped Belgrade's scene during the last century.
Grmeč is one of the rare places suitable for having an all-generation family lunch, a beer with friends, a romantic date, or just for taking some time for yourself to read, write or just enjoy people-watching. Sometimes I sit there surrounded by journalists, sometimes lawyers, students, or grandmas.
Yes, the food is good (my personal favorite is the roasted lamb prepared in milk and ribs with kajmak -- a creamy dairy product similar to clotted cream) but I usually come to Grmeč for the atmosphere.
About this spot
Find your way with 197 Insider Tips from our Local Spotters
Nice place right!? There’s so much more to discover:
Discover all other hidden gems in Belgrade
Brodić
A Riverside Classic®
"Brodić" is a Belgrade classic, a riverside cafe-bar that's been around for more than 20 years. It's the epitome of low-profile, tranquil place to chill...
by
Dušan
Lopušina
Tuk Tuk
Thai nourishing kick in Vračar
"Tuk Tuk" in Belgrade is riding the wave of new South-East Asian restaurants in the city. If you're hungry for some good Thai, look no further...
by
Dušan
Lopušina
Vanilica
Straight outta the oven
"Vanilica" in Belgrade doesn't have a vast offer of pastries - it's a small, unassuming, family-run bakery that I just love for the cakes and gibanica...
by
Dušan
Lopušina
Stari šlep
A comfy hideout on the water
"Stari šlep" is the perfect restaurant for the summer days/daze in Belgrade. Its name means 'the old barge' - I'd recommend a fish soup and salad here.
by
Dušan
Lopušina
Balkan Ekspres restaurant
Train on the hilltop
"Balkan Ekspres restaurant" is in Belgrade's Zemun, a city of its own. This place is worth visiting if only just for the views from inside the train car...
by
Dušan
Lopušina
Radecki Club/restaurant
Village within a city
"Radecki club/restaurant" on Belgrade's Zemun quay: a true local oasis - no espresso here, just plain good old 'domestic' Turkish coffee. Lots to see here.
by
Dušan
Lopušina
Illegal Cinema
'Gunpowder' film club
"Illegal Cinema" in Belgrade is a very special institution. Everyone can suggest a film for screening, if they start a discussion about it at the end...
by
Dušan
Lopušina
Kutijica
Creative food, out of the box!
The daily menu can, for example, include pumpkin with leek and poppy seeds, Thai curry with dried banana, chutney and raita. Or the good old veggie burger.
by
Dušan
Lopušina
Morava Butcher Shop
Meat concept store
After 40 years of providing the people of Belgrade with the best steaks, "Morava Butcher Shop" is now the first Meat Concept Store in town...
by
Anđa
Savić
Stefan Nemanja Monument
Belgrade's largest
The "Stefan Nemanja Monument" in Belgrade is the city's largest - it always reminds me of The Lord of the Rings...
by
Nedeljko
Ivaniš
Dobra Pljeskavica
Mile's True Pljeskavica
Pljeskavicas are like Serbian burgers, but much bigger and tastier. Mile makes some amazing pljeskavica, some of the best in Belgrade in my opinion...
by
Anđa
Savić
Heading to Belgrade?
197 Insider Tips from our local Spotters
Authentic Stories by Real People
Escape the Crowd & Travel Slow 🐌
... for just €9.99
Heading to Belgrade?
✓ 0 Insider Tips from our local Spotters
✓ 197 Insider Tips
✓ Escape the Crowds
✓ Find Spots nearby
✓ Authentic Stories
... for just €9.99
City guides by those who know the city in and out!
Our Locals' Favorite Belgrade
Our team loves Belgrade
Get to know our other Spotters from Belgrade
As featured on:
