Once upon a time, there was a Bermuda triangle in the middle of Belgrade. However, unlike the real one, the one in Belgrade had missing days and nights that were well-oiled with a glass (or more) of rakija (Serbian plum brandy), since it was located between kafanas Grmeč, Šumatovac and Pod lipom.
Since I moved to Belgrade, I have been listening about poets, actors, musicians and other famous locals who used to spend their bohemian days in this area.
After years of dealing with some property issues, Grmeč started welcoming guests again and I always feel super lucky whenever I manage to get a table at lunch hours. Once seated, it is easy for your mind to drift away among those checkered tablecloths, wooden chairs, old-school waiters and photographs of people that shaped Belgrade’s scene during the last century.
Grmeč is one of the rare places suitable for having an all-generation family lunch, a beer with friends, a romantic date, or just for taking some time for yourself to read, write or just enjoy people-watching. Sometimes I sit there surrounded by journalists, sometimes lawyers, students, or grandmas.
Yes, the food is good (my personal favorite is the roasted lamb prepared in milk and ribs with kajmak — a creamy dairy product similar to clotted cream) but I usually come to Grmeč for the atmosphere.